View Full Version : What materials do you most commonly use on your robots?
the team I am on is still relatively new, we have been using the same stock material, 80-20, for basically everything we do (with a few exceptions). While 80-20 is a great material it can still be limited, bulky, and harder to work with. This year we have access to a cnc machine, lathe several mills, and a 3d printer, so we are especially interested in how we can fully utilize those tools.
What materials do other teams use or buy a lot of to use with their robots? I am especially interested in what some of the teams that regularly go to nationals use. I see some pictures of teams with early versions of robots constructed mostly out of 80/20 but then the final version seems to be something else entirely.
Our team personally uses a lot of aluminum box tubing and recently plenty of .125 and .25 aluminum sheet.
Generally in FIRST, you'll see a lot of aluminum sheeting of various thickness.
BBray_T1296
24-11-2013, 16:58
We use mainly Aluminum.
For our frames, we use 1" alum box tubing (1/16" walls I think), welded into shape, which leaves an unbelievably strong and fairly lightweight piece. It is difficult to work with though, so I would not recommend our approach to a team just starting into the wonderful world of manufacturing.
On pieces that require utmost strength, like drive-train brackets and our climbing plate, we use 1/8" aluminum sheet metal, laser cut from CAD drawings and bent with a brake.
Depending on other applications, we use thinner and thinner material.
For our hopper, we used .0404, as it is very lightweight and easy to hand repair if we bashed it up a bit. For our main shooter body, we used 1/16" aluminum, which is slightly thicker, because of forces related to accelerating a Frisbee.
I think in 2011, as part of our gripper, we used .0202, but that stuff is basically paper.
For electronics, we bought a large sheet of corrugated plastic (basically plastic cardboard). You can poke through it with a screwdriver, and it is reasonably, but not uselessly, flexible. It is also very lightweight and easy to manipulate with hand tools. (on the cRIO plate in picture 1, we used a polycarb sheet for more strength.)
jman4747
24-11-2013, 17:02
Your number one material will most likely be aluminum. Square tube, round tube, angle, sheet from 1/16 to .25. Then plastics (mostly sheets) UHMW, lexan, and polycarbonate are our main ones. Delrin (acetal resin) is commonly used as a bearing surface (I also like white UHMW for this). All of these can be cut on the tools you have. Also don't count out 80/20 it can be more expensive but it can be worth it.
I would advise using the 3d printer for prototyping but not anything structural.
One thing I forgot to add: For those who use a cnc milling machine, what do you most commonly use it for.
jwallace15
24-11-2013, 17:31
Here on 68 I'd say aluminum is the material we use the most. We mainly use 2X1's .125" in diameter, and 1X1's .0625" in diameter (we do occasionally use .125" 1X1s, but not .0625" 2X1's) for anything structural (chassis and supportive pieces). We'll use .0625" and .125" sheet in addition to various sizes of angled aluminum for less structural things (like the functional/moving parts in our manipulators... such as what pushed frisbees into our shooting wheel this year, and the tube that held them). There are some custom .325" thick plates in a couple places on our robot that we sent out to be water-jetted (mostly on our transmissions). We also used some Diamond Plate on our driver station and robot cart... :p
I've also noticed the use of lexan sheet in a lot of different places (such as the base for our electrical board, sponsor panels, guides for frisbees to fall into our disc-holding tube, and the outer wall of our shooter). I'd say that is the most commonly used material other than aluminum on my team.
As for your newer question about the use of a CNC mill, we mainly use it to accurately mill out lightening holes in chassis pieces and driver's station (only on 2X1X.125").
MichaelBick
24-11-2013, 17:34
One thing I forgot to add: For those who use a cnc milling machine, what do you most commonly use it for.
What kind of CNC mill do you have acess to? A decent sized machine can be used to machine almost every part on your robot. Based on your resources, I would reccomend using a combination of 2"x1" and 1"x1" aluminum box tubing. Look at teams like 254, 973, and 1538 for great examples of how to use these materials.
Virtually every part on our machines is cnc milled. We use a lot of 1x1 and 1x2 tubing along with 1x1 and 2x2 angle for brackets and the like. For sheet material we mainly use polycarb and it too gets cnc milling. For milling the polycarb sheet we use double stick tape to attach it to a sacrificial piece of particle board that gets clamped to the table.
We also use the 3d printer for a number of things. We've used it to make gears for driving encoders and we use it to make pulleys for polycord loops. They basically have a 1/2 round indentation and slip over a piece of aluminum tubing. There are little tabs on each side that we use to rivet them to the tube. Those do a great job of keeping the polycord running right where we want it. We also printed a cover for a ratchet mechanism we used for our climber which had particularly sharp teeth. We incorporated a 3d version of our bear head logo on it for decoration.
What kind of CNC mill do you have acess to? A decent sized machine can be used to machine almost every part on your robot. Based on your resources, I would reccomend using a combination of 2"x1" and 1"x1" aluminum box tubing. Look at teams like 254, 973, and 1538 for great examples of how to use these materials.
A tormach cnc milling machine. Not sure what the exact table size is but it is definitely a high quality machine.
We also have access to two grizzly mills. One is a hobby/desktop mill and another is a more professional 7 foot tall mill, also grizzly. There is also a broken bridgeport mill and grizzly lathe.
scaryone
24-11-2013, 18:14
Wood. Bends, before it breaks, flexes back into shape. Light weight. Plentiful and cheap. Fast curing epoxy can repair most breaks. Home depot or Lowes near most competitions.
MichaelBick
24-11-2013, 19:20
A tormach cnc milling machine. Not sure what the exact table size is but it is definitely a high quality machine.
We also have access to two grizzly mills. One is a hobby/desktop mill and another is a more professional 7 foot tall mill, also grizzly. There is also a broken bridgeport mill and grizzly lathe.
That is a bit on the small side, but still better than nothing ;). With a CNC of that size, you can still do almost any custom gearbox, all your gussets, half of you box tube, and a lot of your misc. parts. The rest should be able to be done on your other equipment.
Here are some great albums showing detailed photos of 254's 2012 and 2013 robots. I would start here to find ways of incorporating your new equipment into your manufacturing process.
https://plus.google.com/115829622106274402945/posts
https://plus.google.com/115829622106274402945/posts
As others have said before, the materials that you will find yourself using most is 1"x 1" box tube, 2"x1" box tube, 1/8" plate, and 1/4" plate
We like to use a lot of aluminum, like the teams that have responded above for many of the same reasons.
One of our favorite materials, especially in the past few years, has been HDPE. This is the material we made our shooter out of and we really love it. It is fairly easy to machine and deal with. Obviously, it's not good for structural elements, but it can come in handy for a lot.
Major downside is that it can sag under its own weight. We ran into this as our shooter began to droop towards the end of the season.
Just another material to look into.
MrForbes
24-11-2013, 19:39
We've used all kinds of materials....steel, aluminum, fiberglass, wood, polycarbonate, carbon fiber......
And we generally build all of it without using any numerical control equipment. A band saw and drill press, tin snips, circular saw, jig saw, hack saw, and cordless drills will do it all.
It's good to see that you figured out that 80/20 is not a very good robot building material.
ehfeinberg
24-11-2013, 20:25
Besides the materials already mentioned, 449 tends to use a lot of delrin for many different applications. It's relatively light weight and extremely easy to machine. It is also relatively slick, so you can use it as a makeshift bearing block for low speed purposes.
MichaelBick
24-11-2013, 20:58
It's good to see that you figured out that 80/20 is not a very good robot building material.
It all depends on your resources. 341 built one of the best robots in 2012 with 8020.
Mark Sheridan
24-11-2013, 21:02
Last year we did a west coast drive style aluminum frame with sheet metal inserts. It was 1x2" aluminum box tubing 1/8" thick and 1x1" box tubing 1/16" thick. Our belly pan was 0.090" thick. Our climber was 1/8" sheet metal. I forget when steel we used in the climber but it was 1/4".
this year wear going heavier into sheet metal. We are back to having more sheet metal resources than welding. So likely most of the robot will be 6000 series aluminum at .125 , .090 and .060" thickness. to avoid welding, we will be machining and cutting gussets to hold any 1x1" box tubing we way use via rivets or screws. We had some good luck with ABS bearing blocks last year, so we will continue to use that. We makes ours thicker so they are for applications were a very thin aluminum block is not practical. We will also being making our larger gearboxes out of machine 1/4" aluminum. Our smaller boxes will be 0.090" aluminum sheet metal likely. A few other material we may use include Acetal, HDPE and PTFE. We may get into machining a few shafts with 7000 series aluminum, whatever we can dig up at the scrap yard.
449 just made the change from predominantly 80-20 frames to 2''x1'' aluminum tube (and good riddance to the 80/20, it's a terrible material that breeds bad habits and should only be used for prototyping, in my experience), assembled with match-drilled gusset plates and 1/4''-20 bolts. Easy to do and very sturdy.
4464 this past year used the standard kitbot c-base frame, with a superstructure of aluminum tube of varying sizes and riveted gusset plates, which worked great.
and good riddance to the 80/20, it's a terrible material that breed bad habits and should only be used for prototyping, in my experience
I fully agree with you there. Our past two robots (the first one doesn't count, it was our rookie year) were basically tributes to the company that made 80/20. The robots were almost entirely made out of 80/20 and were barely able to be finished within 6 weeks.
One of my goals for this year was to make a prototype 80/20 robot (to some degree) in 3 weeks, then remake everything better the second time around. I have found that testing the robot for only a day or two without any field components has left our robots with many hidden problems. With a lot of machines and more supervision, it will be a lot easier (hopefully) to make better robots in shorter time.
RyanCahoon
24-11-2013, 22:45
Whatever material you decide to use, make sure to experiment with it before the season starts. A robot made out of 80/20 that can play the game is better than spending 6 weeks trying to figure out a new material and not having enough time to refine your design. If you're barely finished your robot last year in the 6 weeks, make sure your team this year is able to be competitive before taking on additional challenges.
It all depends on your resources. 341 built one of the best robots in 2012 with 8020.
Quoted for truth. Resources means experience as well as material and capability.
MichaelBick
24-11-2013, 22:46
I strongly suggest everyone who thinks that 8020 is an terrible material read this: http://www.fightingpi.org/Resources/Business/Behind%20The%20Design%20Files/2012%20Behind%20the%20Design%20-%20Team%20341.pdf
As I have said before, 341's 2012 robot is one of the best, if not the best, Rebound Rumble robots. They finished the season seeding first at EVERY SINGLE EVENT they went to(including IRI and CMP), 87-9-1, division finalists, and IRI finalists. They maximized their resources, using what little resources they had only where they needed it. I love using box tubing because we have the machining resources necessary to fabricate with it and it permits us to build extremely light robots, but 8020 can be just as good if you need to build quickly with little resources.
I love using box tubing because we have the machining resources necessary to fabricate with it and it permits us to build extremely light robots, but 8020 can be just as good if you need to build quickly with little resources.
It is not true that you need significant machining resources to do tube framing; 449 has had a very easy time of knocking together gusset plate/tube constructions using pre-machined 80/20 gussets and match-drilling everything. This allows you to clamp everything in its correct configuration before drilling, and allows lots of slop with the actual drilling (if you're careful you can actually get away with doing pretty much the whole thing with a hand drill without any trouble, though a drill press is better).
I've found that the problem with 80/20, in addition to the absurd weight, is that it makes it very easy for people to get into the habit of making things which "sort of fit together" instead of things which actually fit together; the play inherent to the system allows you to nudge things around when you haven't really figured out where everything should be. This is very useful when you're prototyping, but it is the enemy of a good final product. You end up with things that gradually walk out of position and you get lots of silly, avoidable failure modes which shouldn't be there.
One can alleviate these issues to an extent with judicious use of locking hardware/loctite and through-drilling, but I find it more effective at that point, both practically and pedagogically, to simply manufacture the final product out of a better, lighter material. If you stick with 80/20 it takes a fair bit of wherewithal to ensure that all your important dimensions end up fixed and secured, whereas if you switch to manufacturing the final product you are essentially forced to do it right, else you can't construct the thing.
So, it's not really so much that 80/20 can't be used well on a final robot so much as there is a lot of potential for it not to be used well compared to other materials. Also, did I mention it's heavy? ;)
MichaelBick
24-11-2013, 23:28
So, it's not really so much that 80/20 can't be used well on a final robot so much as there is a lot of potential for it not to be used well compared to other materials. Also, did I mention it's heavy? ;)
It's all about what allows you to build the quickest. Match drilling tube works well, as long as you have the resources to make gussets. However, not all teams have the resources. In this case, 8020 provides a quick and easy method to making parts, that uses resources available to the team. Furthermore, teams with limited resources cannot afford to remake parts. Instead, 8020 affords teams the ability to iterate without using up more machining resources. Lastly, even though it is heavy, 8020 allows teams to build robots effectively with a chopsaw and drill press. I'd much rather have a robot with 1 mechanism that works at 100% than 2 mechanisms that work at 50%.
8020 can be used effectively, and there is no need "nudge things around" if you "know where everything should be". Any material can be used incorrectly, but this does not make the material inherently bad.
8020 can be used effectively, and there is no need "nudge things around" if you "know where everything should be". Any material can be used incorrectly, but this does not make the material inherently bad.
"Bad" is not a binary value.
A greater propensity towards incorrect use is a detrimental property of a material, both from a standpoint of delivering a good product and perpetuating good engineering habits. 80/20 certainly has benefits, but it has noted drawbacks and, from my experience, it is a material I'd much rather not use in anything past a prototyping capacity.
I also think you're still overstating the cost, both in machining capability and time/effort, of building a tube frame; 449 has been machining with little more than a miter saw and a drill press for the entirety of the time I've been on the team, and we currently have no problems at all with tube frames. As mentioned, we don't usually make our own gussets (though we certainly have done, with success, on a bandsaw), but rather purchase ones from the 80/20 catalog and cut them down/redrill them as necessary.
BurkeHalderman
24-11-2013, 23:54
good riddance to the 80/20, it's a terrible material that breeds bad habits and should only be used for prototyping, in my experience
I fully agree with you there. Our past two robots (the first one doesn't count, it was our rookie year) were basically tributes to the company that made 80/20. The robots were almost entirely made out of 80/20 and were barely able to be finished within 6 weeks.
80/20 is not a bad material at all. It all depends on the your teams resources and knowledge. There are actually many advantages to using 80/20. The T-slot profile allows for easy mounting and adjustment, it is designed to have the center tapped for 1/4" bolt. You don't even need to use gussets to assemble it as you can drill and tap the centers. While to use square tubing you have to either weld or use gussets.
Also, did I mention it's heavy?
The 1" square profile, at .59lbs/ft is barely heavier than a 1" square, 1/8" wall aluminum tube at .524lbs/ft. So no it is not heavy. If you use 80/20 with an absurd amount of gussets then yes your robot is going to be heavy, if used properly it is not heavy.
80/20 extruded aluminum is a great resource to use, especially if you don't have access to anything more than basic tools. I'd recommend it to any team. As mentioned before Team 341's 2012 robot was predominantly 80/20 and was easily one of the best robots in FIRST that year. We have used an 80/20 and c-channel frame for the last three years and couldn't be happier with the ease of construction it has provided us and we've never had our frame wobble loose. In 2013 using a combination of 1" 80/20 and .120" aluminum sheet metal we had our practice bot completed by the end of week three and ranked 1st at the Queen City Regional
MichaelBick
24-11-2013, 23:58
I also think you're still overstating the cost, both in machining capability and time/effort, of building a tube frame; 449 has been machining with little more than a miter saw and a drill press for the entirety of the time I've been on the team, and we currently have no problems at all with tube frames.
Again, I highly reccomend you give the article a good read. I think you are overstating the negatives of 8020. Essentially, 8020 can be used exactly like box tube, without the use of gussets. This can be a big benefit to many teams(anywhere from rookies to season veterans). Anything that "gives" you time for free is a good thing. Whether the time savings is more beneficial than the weight loss is based on the team and their resources.
Your original statement was that 8020 is a "terrible" material. My primary point is that this is obviously not the case, because a robot that was mostly built out of 8020 did so INSANELY well.
Your original statement was that 8020 is a "terrible" material. My primary point is that this is obviously not the case, because a robot that was mostly built out of 8020 did so INSANELY well.
The best robot I've ever worked on (449's bot (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ed9orBXtxdE) for Overdrive) was made mainly out of 80/20. This does not offset the fact that by far the single largest source of mechanical failures I have witnessed on our robots, both directly and indirectly, has been 80/20 construction. I have not seen those same mistakes made with tube/gusset construction, simply because the modes of failure I've seen most often are simply not possible with tube/gusset construction.
MichaelBick
25-11-2013, 00:05
I have not seen those same mistakes made with tube/gusset construction, simply because the modes of failure I've seen most often are simply not possible with tube/gusset construction.
How is it possible to make more mistakes with 8020 if you build in a very similar way, however without gussets?
mman1506
25-11-2013, 00:06
Any ideas for what to do with these 3/4 to 3 inch thick sheets of scrap T6 hardened 7075 aluminium we were donated?
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/942983_10200514419333232_1586326484_n.jpg
We've been thinking of making a 7075 belly pan :D
How is it possible to make more mistakes with 8020 if you build in a very similar way, however without gussets?
If you only use 80/20 in this way, you get none of the added utility when prototyping.
The problem, in my experience, has always been the transition from prototype to final mechanism with 80/20 construction. It is very easy for sloppiness from the prototype to bleed through, and it causes failures. Switching to tube/gusset construction forces you to not make these mistakes. There is utility in this.
I think we may have to accept that we're at an impasse, because we're dragging this thread off-topic and drowning out the other discussion.
BurkeHalderman
25-11-2013, 00:11
This does not offset the fact that by far the single largest source of mechanical failures I have witnessed on our robots, both directly and indirectly, has been 80/20 construction. I have not seen those same mistakes made with tube/gusset construction, simply because the modes of failure I've seen most often are simply not possible with tube/gusset construction.
Can you describe these mechanical failures that were caused by using 80/20?
How is it possible to make more mistakes with 8020 if you build in a very similar way, however without gussets?
I'd assume it'd be due to parts shifting in the T-slot profile. However if you simply drill through the 80/20 after positioning it using the T-slot then the problem is resolved.
Mark Sheridan
25-11-2013, 00:23
Any ideas for what to do with these 3/4 to 3 inch thick sheets of scrap T6 hardened 7075 aluminium we were donated?
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/942983_10200514419333232_1586326484_n.jpg
We've been thinking of making a 7075 belly pan :D
That is a nice chunk of scrap. Perfect for FRC sized parts.
Any ideas for what to do with these 3/4 to 3 inch thick sheets of scrap T6 hardened 7075 aluminium we were donated?
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/942983_10200514419333232_1586326484_n.jpg
We've been thinking of making a 7075 belly pan :D
Holy crap, that's a lot of metal.
Got a CNC mill?
mman1506
25-11-2013, 00:45
Holy crap, that's a lot of metal.
Got a CNC mill?
We do
Can you describe these mechanical failures that were caused by using 80/20?
I'd assume it'd be due to parts shifting in the T-slot profile. However if you simply drill through the 80/20 after positioning it using the T-slot then the problem is resolved.
You're correct in your assumption. The problem, and it is a pervasive problem, is that in the rush of build season, taking apart everything and through-drilling all of the 80/20 parts that need to be through-drilled simply doesn't end up getting done - human psychology being what it is, I've simply noticed that it's not at all hard to leave something improperly constructed and sloppy on an 80/20 frame where, at a glance, it seems functional. Building final versions out of other materials ends up being lighter, not much more work, and ensures that everything ends up rigid and fixed in place.
If students (and mentors) were perfect, this would not be an issue, but as I mentioned earlier I feel it's as much a pedagogical concern as it is a functional one. I (and the rest of my team, from what I recall) got into a bunch of nasty habits in my early FRC years with 80/20 construction that took a while to break. I feel it is far safer to avoid them entirely.
I do think we probably ought to wrap this exchange up, lest we fully derail the thread; we could start another, if you'd like to continue discussing it.
We do
Then the possibilities are endless!
Brandon Zalinsky
25-11-2013, 10:44
Just to keep with my team's namesake...
PVC tubing is very effective when you need a lightweight material for arms and other manipulators. It also makes an efficient roller or spacer.
BBray_T1296
25-11-2013, 11:06
The 1" square profile, at .59lbs/ft is barely heavier than a 1" square, 1/8" wall aluminum tube at .524lbs/ft. So no it is not heavy. If you use 80/20 with an absurd amount of gussets then yes your robot is going to be heavy, if used properly it is not heavy.
I have never seen a team use .125 thick 1" tubing. Everyone I've seen (including our team) uses .0625 (1/16") wall thickness, which, without running numbers (or Google-ing), should end up roughly 1/2 that weight per foot.
I like using 80/20 for chain and belt tensioning, easy way to move the belt around and loosen then tighten it. Did this to tension our shooter arm pivot chain last year.
PVC tubing is always great to make spacers and as a circular form of shielding.
I havent gotten into carbon fiber construction in any robot's I've mentored teams for yet, but we have the resources to do so this year so it may be fun to try. I have personally done CF layups (both vacuum seal + autoclave and wet) so have some experience with the process. Just gotta get the students on-board first.
240 tends to use aluminum tubing, polycarbonate, and wood for general constructions. As previously stated, we like PVC for spacers. It seems like these are the go-to materials for many teams. However, we're testing out some corrugated plastic soon, so maybe that will be added to the list :)
I have never seen a team use .125 thick 1" tubing.
We used it this year on some frame parts and our climber mounts, but we think we could have gotten away with the thinner stuff. When we fell of the tower we had a weld snap before the box tubing bent. We also have a TON of it in storage, so we'll probably end up using it again.
Pendulum^-1
27-11-2013, 20:41
Mostly aluminum. Our chassis is typically c-channel, and the superstructure is a lot of 8020. If anyone is using 8020, I highly recommend that you use their " end fasteners." Very lightweight and strong way to make right angle joints in 8020. Ok, so you have to do a little work and tap the ends of the extrusions. Nearly everyone on our team knows how to tap metal now! Oh, and in order to get good 90 degree joints, you really need to have a very good miter saw with a non-ferrous metal blade to cut the 1010 extrusions very cleanly, very accurately. A band saw or hack saw, in my experience, will not do.
We also use a fair amount of polycarbonate. We either use the AM perforated sheets (to mount electrical components) or multi-wall polycarbonate, which is exceptionally strong and light, useful for mounting very light components, or as a modest armor plating, to prevent incidental intrusions of other robots/game pieces to interfere with our robot's internal wiring. We will typically buy a sheet (http://www.eplastics.com/Lexan_Thermoclear_Polycarbonate_Polygal_Multiwall_ Sheet), and have it cut to 2'x4' to ship it cheaply.
Steel pillowblocks, various components from AndyMark, VexPRO, and/or McMaster Carr typically comprise the rest of our robots.
For us, with very modest machining capabilities, simplicity of fabrication is paramount.
Last year, we integrated a mixture of 3d printed Ultem and Titanium into our robot. We also used woven carbon fiber structures for the chassis. Our robot was light, yet extremely strong.
Wayne Doenges
02-12-2013, 07:02
FRC Team 1501 T.H.R.U.S.T. uses .062 aluminum sheets and just a few rivets :D
DELurker
03-12-2013, 16:57
I have never seen a team use .125 thick 1" tubing. Everyone I've seen (including our team) uses .0625 (1/16") wall thickness, which, without running numbers (or Google-ing), should end up roughly 1/2 that weight per foot.
*small voice*
In 2012, 1370 built their frame out of 2"x1" aluminum box with 1/8" walls. We then bought a 1-3/8 hole saw and had students use our Bridgeport vertical mill to lighten the aluminum parts at very precise repeated intervals. The end result was a robot which was 119.9 pounds without a shooter. :ahh:
Of course, that also meant we could balance with anybody on the bridges and we could move any fender-shooters off their mark without any real effort....
In 2012, we used 1" square 1/16" wall aluminum box tubing and worked up a pretty decent offensive robot.
Moral: Never using 1/8" wall aluminum tube again.
FS Robotics
05-12-2013, 17:17
I am on a FIRST Rookie team and have a question about supplies. Are there any parts and tools that my team will definitely need during build season that does not come with the Kit of Parts? We would like to purchase these before build season if it is possible, but have no idea what items to buy.
Thank you for your help!
Mark McLeod
05-12-2013, 17:59
The KOP only gives you a basic drivable base, so there is a lot more you'll need to beg, borrow or buy.
You'll need raw material for any superstructure/manipulators/mechanisms, additional speed controllers to control any motors beyond the basic drive motors that you'll get.
You may need to purchase extra 12v competition batteries, more (FRC legal) motors, nuts & bolts, rivets, tools, the list goes on for quite a while.
If you have a nearby veteran team then visit them to look at last year's robot. or find photos online of robots. Most of what you see will need to be added over and above what the Kit supplies.
You may not know what all you may need until the game is revealed and you settle on a robot design.
I am on a FIRST Rookie team and have a question about supplies. Are there any parts and tools that my team will definitely need during build season that does not come with the Kit of Parts? We would like to purchase these before build season if it is possible, but have no idea what items to buy.
Thank you for your help! As far as tools go...
Definitely, and I do mean definitely, a set of basic hand tools--screwdrivers, hex keys, wrenches, ratchets, and the like, in English and metric, plus a second set as backup. Also a cordless drill and drill index.
Also add safety glasses, power supply, and if someone has a decent laptop you'll want to use that instead of the provided one for programming and/or CAD. This on top of Mark's list.
Other stuff to get: Plywood, which will be useful as a bellypan for the robot as well as building field elements; aluminum tubing or 80-20 (or some form of boards, if you prefer a wooden robot); fasteners and lots of them, in whatever size and type you need for the materials you plan on working with.
Without seeing any game stuff, plan to grab a couple extra CIM motors and motor controllers.
I am on a FIRST Rookie team and have a question about supplies. Are there any parts and tools that my team will definitely need during build season that does not come with the Kit of Parts? We would like to purchase these before build season if it is possible, but have no idea what items to buy.
Thank you for your help!
As for tools, in addition to what was mentioned, you're going to really want to invest in a drill press and a miter saw with a non-ferrous metal cutting blade.
Try to get all the scrap material you can - go around to local hardware stores and ask if they have any. 4464 built our robot superstructure largely out of scrap material last year. Any and all extruded aluminum is good - angle stock, channel stock, tube (both round and square), etc. Sheet for gusset plates is also good.
You're going to want a full set of small bolts and matching nuts (boltdepot.com sells them, well-organized and for a fair price), all the way from 6-32 through 1/4''-20. You'll probably want a pop-riveter and a collection of rivets, too.
Be sure to check out the "rookie advice" thread currently in the Technical Discussion subforum, there's a lot of useful information there.
Brandon Zalinsky
10-12-2013, 11:17
The end result was a robot which was 119.9 pounds without a shooter.
Yikes! Are there any pictures of this robot? I'd really like to see how it got up to 120 that fast.
Chris is me
10-12-2013, 15:07
I think there's a bit too much knocking on 1/8th wall parts here. They are heavier than 1/16th but also easier to work with. You can tap 1/8th wall parts with 10-32 thread, you can mount bearings and shafts directly into it without the need for a support block, and it's very easy to acquire. We've used mostly 1/8th wall on all of our robots since 2011. As long as you keep your frame and superstructure as minimal as possible and avoid using excessively large geometry where you don't need to, it's totally possible to build a sub 100 pound robot with 1/8" wall tubing. That said, being able to work with and use 1/16th wall is pretty valuable and lets you do some cool stuff.
DELurker
10-12-2013, 19:15
Yikes! Are there any pictures of this robot? I'd really like to see how it got up to 120 that fast.
I'll see what I can find...
Try this link... photo (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=272258792850050&set=a.272257072850222.64053.100001977944126&type=3&src=https%3A%2F%2Fscontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ash2%2F429946_272258792850050_714058086_n.jpg&size=960%2C720)
iirc, the base frame plus the drivetrain (mecanum, 4x CIM, nanotube) plus the electronics was 80 lbs or so.
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