New AM Shrink Tube Solder

[Ari423]

I'm wondering what CD's opinions are of the new soldering heat shrink tubes that AndyMark just released. They require no soldering skill, only a heat gun and these (http://www.andymark.com/product-p/am-3508_blue.htm) (or these (http://www.andymark.com/product-p/am-3508_red.htm))heat-shrink tubes.

In my opinion, learning how to solder is an invaluable skill that students can learn to do well through FIRST and carry on with them into their careers. I would say that, for most of the robot, these aren't necessary and it will be cheaper and a better learning experience to solder and heat-shrink by hand. I do think this is a great option for those quick electrical modifications between matches where you don't want to have to wait for a soldering gun to heat up and then have to squeeze inside the robot to solder two wires. It just takes ~30 seconds with a heat gun, which heats up almost instantly.

What do you think?

[JR0405]

I'm wondering if a 12 AWG version will be released

[cadandcookies]

I'll support most things that make robotics programs more accessible. This is certainly one of those things.

Edit: This quite clearly isn't a magical replacement for all forms of soldering. Even if it were, I'd still support it, because I have seen so many robots fail on the field due to faulty wiring. Anything that makes it easier for students/teams to make robust connections should be encouraged.

[Redo91]

We use a product (http://www.te.com/usa-en/product-764619-000.html) similar to these for grounding the shielding of cables we build here at work. I thought they were the coolest things when I first saw them. I have not actually installed one myself, but they seem MUCH easier to implement than other methods I can think of.

My personal opinion, use them! That being said, being able to properly solder a connection is important. You can't use a butt splice to connect everything.

[jajabinx124]

I agree that learning how to solder and heat-shrink by hand is a good skill to have, but this can make life easier in some cases. (like during situations where you need to make a quick swap, etc.) I like it.

[Billfred]

We also released two things:

1) This how-to video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIt5EXjw5Vc) so you can see the process for yourself.

2) This rather satisfying GIF of the solder melting in:

http://files.andymark.com/Images/shrinktubesolder.gif

[Sperkowsky]

When I saw these I immediately put them on our shopping list. Our electrical team is more than capable of soldering. The lead even does chip repair in his free time, but having these look like they could be a life safer for fast repairs at competitions.

[Ernst]

I won't pass too much judgement on these until I try them or see other people try them, but I'm skeptical. I don't understand what advantages these would have over a butt connector. If anything, I would think crimping on a butt connector would be even quicker and offer a better physical and electrical connection, all for less money.

Edit: Huh, I guess I've just never heard of these and they're available elsewhere (https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Insulated-Electrical-Waterproof-Automotive/dp/B01M0EZBYQ/ref=pd_lpo_469_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VQ1B78S6E2Q13MVGVT21) under a few different names, including in different sizes. Some market them as waterproof and for marine or automotive applications. Neat.

[ctt956]

I'm wondering what CD's opinions are of the new soldering heat shrink tubes that AndyMark just released. They require no soldering skill, only a heat gun and these (http://www.andymark.com/product-p/am-3508_blue.htm) (or these (http://www.andymark.com/product-p/am-3508_red.htm))heat-shrink tubes.

In my opinion, learning how to solder is an invaluable skill that students can learn to do well through FIRST and carry on with them into their careers. I would say that, for most of the robot, these aren't necessary and it will be cheaper and a better learning experience to solder and heat-shrink by hand. I do think this is a great option for those quick electrical modifications between matches where you don't want to have to wait for a soldering gun to heat up and then have to squeeze inside the robot to solder two wires. It just takes ~30 seconds with a heat gun, which heats up almost instantly.

What do you think?

I think these seem like a great idea! Soldering guns heat up about as quickly as a heat gun; it's soldering irons that take 3-5 minutes to warm up. That said, these tubes are a lot less work than it would be to solder wires the traditional way. Also cleaner and safer, as there's no chance of molten solder dripping somewhere you don't want it, unless you melt through the tube. I agree with everyone who has said that soldering is an important skill to have. I learned long before I was in FIRST, and it has allowed me to repair and build a lot of things I couldn't have otherwise. I don't think these were intended to completely replace traditional soldering, but for fast repairs and soldering wires easily. And I see it working very well for that purpose.

[bobbysq]

I can't see it being too useful for our team (already bought some bulk levernuts), but it seems cool for people wanting a more permanent way to patch together cables quickly.

Also, there definitely needs to be a yellow version for 12AWG, so that people can use it for motor wires.

[Fusion_Clint]

It looks pretty neat, I will most likely get some for my boat connections.

For FRC we have made a complete transition to the Anderson Powerpole series of connectors this season.

[GeeTwo]

I won't pass too much judgement on these until I try them or see other people try them, but I'm skeptical. I don't understand what advantages these would have over a butt connector. If anything, I would think crimping on a butt connector would be even quicker and offer a better physical and electrical connection, all for less money.
+several

Whenever I buy a generic package of automotive crimps, the butt splices always seem to live on past everything else. Why do we really need these at all, unless we have runs longer than a spool of wire?

In any case, most of our robotics soldering involves a PC board and/or a component, and is not wire-to-wire. The relatively small number of wire-to-wire solder joints I have been part of over the years have involved things where appearance more important than substance (e.g. Christmas Door Decorations, and an illuminated 8+8+carry adder for one of Gixxy's high school projects), and most of those have been solder joints of 3 wires, not just 2. On a robot, crimping or a 3 position lever nut or a Power Pole was regularly a better solution than solder.

[mman1506]

Anything that reduces the chance teams will show up with screw terminals or wire nuts for all their connections is a good thing in my books.

[electroken]

We've used them for making PWM Y-cables many times and they have served us well. The finished splices are stronger than the wire at either end. We have never tried them on wire larger than 22 AWG.

They do require a lot of heat to melt the solder cylinder within, much more than most wire insulation can tolerate, so some care is needed to avoid damaging the wire insulation.

[Mr V]

I won't pass too much judgement on these until I try them or see other people try them, but I'm skeptical. I don't understand what advantages these would have over a butt connector. If anything, I would think crimping on a butt connector would be even quicker and offer a better physical and electrical connection, all for less money.

Edit: Huh, I guess I've just never heard of these and they're available elsewhere (https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Insulated-Electrical-Waterproof-Automotive/dp/B01M0EZBYQ/ref=pd_lpo_469_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VQ1B78S6E2Q13MVGVT21) under a few different names, including in different sizes. Some market them as waterproof and for marine or automotive applications. Neat.

They have been around for many years in a couple of different forms. They are much more likely to create a strong mechanical and electrical connection than a standard vinyl insulated crimp connector. In fact Ford and GM require a version that includes a crimp section as well as the solder and adhesive for warranty repairs in specific circuits and locations. So that type of connector is well proven in industry.

[ahartnet]

They do require a lot of heat to melt the solder cylinder within, much more than most wire insulation can tolerate, so some care is needed to avoid damaging the wire insulation.

I've used them at my day job (NASA). They definitely do require more heat than many other things that require a heat gun.

My use cases have been when we need to solder a wire to a braided shield (surrounding the wires). I do not know if that is the main purpose of them or not, but soldering a wire to a shield can be either tricky or difficult to provide a strong mechanical connection.

I agree with the other sentiments expressed here - if it is able to help those teams that may not have someone to teach them how to solder - great! Do I think this is particularly helpful in FRC (as opposed to butt splices, levernuts, andersons, or soldering) - eh I won't be pushing to move to these instead, but I won't deem it a poor decision by those that do.

This is what I see:
-Advantage over levernuts: cheaper
-Advantage over butt splices: stronger connection and more obvious that it's completed (crimping done by inexperienced people are likely to either crimp the wrong place, or not crimp hard enough). It is obvious (and like bilfred said - satisfying - to see the solder melt
-Advantage over Andersons: cheaper (probably, I haven't confirmed), more permanent, and same crimp issues noted before
-advantage over soldering: probably quicker, requires less experience

-disadvantage over levernuts: takes longer, requires more tools than a wire stripper (or sharp edge), requires electrical power (or battery powered heat gun)
-disadvantage over butt splices: more expensive, requires electrical power (or battery powered heat gun)
-disadvantage over andersons: can't disconnect
-disadvantage over soldering: more expensive, requires a decent check of wire on both ends (i.e. - there are some situations you can only solder to connect wires)

[Chris is me]

I'm glad this exists. It is an easy and mess-free way to create a strong electrical connection that anyone can visually verify is robustly held in place. I / my team might not use it, but there are a lot of situations where I would rather a team use these than try and crimp a connector with the improper tools / technique.

[bobbysq]

This is what I see:
-Advantage over levernuts: cheaper


They actually appear to have similar unit rates using Amazon prices for the levernuts (https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=pd_bxgy_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=622KA75BSEZ0TBC3DYTR) and for the heat shrink solder (https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Sopoby-Connectors-Terminals-Electrical/dp/B01DPS8DPM/ref=pd_sim_60_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T7WEJZMFRBRM95032KNX). These get you a better deal than AM's price.

[RoboChair]

What the heck are they using in their solder alloy? Full melt at 300F?

[Nate Laverdure]

What the heck are they using in their solder alloy? Full melt at 300F?
Maybe In97/Ag3 or Sn50/Pb32/Cd18

Are they RoHS compliant?

[RoboChair]

Maybe In97/Ag3 or Sn50/Pb32/Cd18

Are they RoHS compliant?

There is no way there is profit margin in using that amount of Indium, that stuff is like $0.50 per gram, in bulk. I spent $150 for a half a pound of the stuff, but I will say I do like the taste and consistency. Always entertaining to see someone's reaction to chewing on a piece of metal.

[Team34Guy]

As several others have noted, these have been around for a long time. I saw them for the first time back in college 25 years or so ago. In my opinion they are a fairly reliable method of joining wires. However, knowledge and experience with good soldering techniques are still required when using these. It's very easy to create a cold solder joint if you aren't careful.

[efoote868]

it's soldering irons that take 3-5 minutes to warm up.

Sounds like you need a better soldering iron.

[Richard Wallace]

We also released two things:

1) This how-to video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIt5EXjw5Vc) so you can see the process for yourself.
...

Another recommended process (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d83XuNDnHLI) includes mechanically interleaving strands of the two wires to be joined. Less risk of cold joint.

[Mr V]

I've used them at my day job (NASA). They definitely do require more heat than many other things that require a heat gun.

My use cases have been when we need to solder a wire to a braided shield (surrounding the wires). I do not know if that is the main purpose of them or not, but soldering a wire to a shield can be either tricky or difficult to provide a strong mechanical connection.

I agree with the other sentiments expressed here - if it is able to help those teams that may not have someone to teach them how to solder - great! Do I think this is particularly helpful in FRC (as opposed to butt splices, levernuts, andersons, or soldering) - eh I won't be pushing to move to these instead, but I won't deem it a poor decision by those that do.

This is what I see:
-Advantage over levernuts: cheaper
-Advantage over butt splices: stronger connection and more obvious that it's completed (crimping done by inexperienced people are likely to either crimp the wrong place, or not crimp hard enough). It is obvious (and like bilfred said - satisfying - to see the solder melt
-Advantage over Andersons: cheaper (probably, I haven't confirmed), more permanent, and same crimp issues noted before
-advantage over soldering: probably quicker, requires less experience

-disadvantage over levernuts: takes longer, requires more tools than a wire stripper (or sharp edge), requires electrical power (or battery powered heat gun)
-disadvantage over butt splices: more expensive, requires electrical power (or battery powered heat gun)
-disadvantage over andersons: can't disconnect
-disadvantage over soldering: more expensive, requires a decent check of wire on both ends (i.e. - there are some situations you can only solder to connect wires)

You can get these type of connectors to work properly with just a lighter or candle. Of course there is a risk with using an open flame and not something you could do in the pits, however there are some butane torch units that don't have an open flame that are intended to be used in a heat gun type of application.

[Chris is me]

One advantage of this method is that before the solder melts, you glue the wires into place. Sometimes in the heat of a quick moment (emergency repair in the pits etc) it's hard to hold two wire ends steady / champ wires down while soldering. This could be done safely by a very nervous person!

[JamesBrown]

Sometimes in the heat of a quick moment (emergency repair in the pits etc) it's hard to hold two wire ends steady / champ wires down while soldering.

The wires should be joined together before you start soldering.


That is the root of my concern with these, everything I learned about soldering is that if you don't start with a good mechanical connection you will not get a good electrical connection. Even with the wires glued in place, there is not a solid mechanical connection.

I have no doubt that these will work fine in a lot of applications, but I don't see the advantage. For a fast/easy fix you won't beat a crimp with the right tool. For smaller gauge wire I would rather solder and then heat shrink it.

[ctt956]

Sounds like you need a better soldering iron.

Probably. I have a two-setting Radio Shack iron that takes that long to heat up, and my dad has a Weller that's at least 20 years old, which takes equally long. I have used the Hakko digital irons, which heat almost instantly. I do have a Weller soldering gun that also heats fast.

[Al Skierkiewicz]

EVeryone,
The basic rule of a good soldering job is that both wires reach a temperature that will allow the solder to flow in between the strands of the wire.
These devices were developed for soldering a jumper wire to coaxial cable. The ring is meant to solder to the strands of the coax shield. In general, the shield uses very small stranding. These could be useful for emergency soldering of a broken wire but they are not fool proof. Do not trust them to have good mechanical strength. The two rings of non-metallic material are for water proofing. In use on coaxial cable, these would seal on one side to the outside jacket and the other side would be around the inner insulation surrounding the center conductor.