pic: XBot 2007 electronics panel [Archive]

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Fred Sayre

19-01-2007, 08:21

[cdm-description=photo]26335[/cdm-description]

jcatt

19-01-2007, 08:28

Very Nice. Looks good. I like the way you are saving weight by cuting out the center of the speed controlers. May i ask what type of material your using to mount everything to.

Fred Sayre

19-01-2007, 08:35

Very Nice. Looks good. I like the way you are saving weight by cuting out the center of the speed controlers. May i ask what type of material your using to mount everything to.

It is ABS 1/4" plastic. We might still take some weight out of it, if we have time to take the electronics off and cut it before the panel is needed on the robot.

mtaman02

19-01-2007, 08:49

I like the neatness of the wiring. No access wiring to get caught up in the moving parts of your robot or someone elses. Plus the amount of weight your saving by cutting the excess wiring.

Fred Sayre

19-01-2007, 09:30

I like the neatness of the wiring. No access wiring to get caught up in the moving parts of your robot or someone elses. Plus the amount of weight your saving by cutting the excess wiring.

Every year that I been on a team the wiring was dealt with as a last priority, causing many unexpected failures that were very difficult to diagnose and fix. We finally decided that we would do it right this year :)

I will post a picture when the board is more finalized.

Thanks!

Al Skierkiewicz

19-01-2007, 10:33

I like the short runs of #6 and the central location of the blocks and Main breaker. The output of the main breaker must feed the distribution blocks before the fuse panels per the wiring diagram and Tips and Guidelines and

<R57> The 12V battery, the main 120-amp circuit breaker, the power distribution block, and circuit breaker distribution panels must be connected as shown in the 2007 Power Distribution Diagram.

Fred Sayre

19-01-2007, 10:48

Al Skierkiewicz

19-01-2007, 10:50

Anytime!
Glad you were able to catch it early.

GMKlenklen

19-01-2007, 15:25

what fasteners are required for mounting the electrical hardware to a flat panel? Is it provided in the KOP?

Joel J

19-01-2007, 15:27

How much does your electronic panel weigh, with all the victors, and etc?

Fred Sayre

19-01-2007, 16:15

what fasteners are required for mounting the electrical hardware to a flat panel? Is it provided in the KOP?

We are just using standard #8-32, #10-32, and 1/4"-20 bolts for mounting, and zip ties for the speed controllers. It is stuff not generally supplied. (I know there are zip ties in the KOP, but I am not sure about any other appropriate hardware).

How much does your electronic panel weigh, with all the victors, and etc?

We will weigh it tonight...

dtengineering

19-01-2007, 16:30

Looks nice... I've found that #8 nylon machine screws and nuts save some weight over steel screws and also provide one less conductive surface to short out to.

See you in Portland.

Jason

skimoose

19-01-2007, 18:11

Very nice job. I just wish they'd come up with something better than the maxi block for the 40 amp circuits. It's the most ridiculously heavy breaker block I've ever seen. I think the 4 position maxi block weighs more than the entire '05-'06 IFI breaker panel. I don't know why more teams didn't use the IFI panel (other than size, which wasn't that bad, and maybe too many 20-30 amp circuit slots). :confused:

Wouldn't it be nice if they came out with the DIN rail product to accept the breakers? That would kill two birds with one stone, and I think the DIN rail is even lighter than the maxi blocks and it's handling the entire 120 amp load.

Jeremytice

19-01-2007, 21:19

Very nice you guys!

Sharkbyte

20-01-2007, 19:41

For each of the four victors you have a single wire coming out of the DIN block ports. You can combine them:

Battery Power Distribution Terminal Strip Manual:
Maximum Wire Size and Max Quantity Allowed per 1492-J16xx Terminal
1 - #6 or
1 - #8 or
2 - #10 or
3 - #12 or
4 - #14 or
4 - #16

Japper

30-01-2007, 22:27

It is ABS 1/4" plastic. We might still take some weight out of it, if we have time to take the electronics off and cut it before the panel is needed on the robot.

I like it... it is clean and looks nice!

Can we use any material for the electronics mounting board?

Also, is it necessary to add any dampers to limit any vibration or is this not an issue?

I am also considering using the 1/4" ABS plastic as well but wanted to make sure that there isn't any rules against using it.

thanks!

Al Skierkiewicz

31-01-2007, 08:14

Japper,
Nothing in the electronics is so fragile that it can't take a hit from another robot. There are things you do want to make sure are secure. The battery musst be mounted in such a way that it won't fly out in a crash with another robot. The PWM cables have a tendency to pull out if you don't tie them into position. We usually just loop the cable out of the device and tie wrap it to the mounting board next to the device. This goes for both ends, RC and Victor, Spike or servo. The power cables, if left to flop around, will loosen at the screw terminals of the Victors so tie those down as well. Time will tell if the terminal blocks will stand up to the vibration of matches. I am recommending that teams check the tightness of each one in the pit between matches.

Japper

01-02-2007, 09:35

Thanks Al-

Is there a rule of thumb regarding how much of the robot should be covered in Lexan to protect parts and besides the electronics panel, which areas should have this type of protection?

Rich Ross

01-02-2007, 10:36

Al Skierkiewicz

01-02-2007, 10:39

There is no robot rule for lexan coverings. It is up to the individual teams as to how much they want or can use with regards to weight since all nonfunctional decoration is included in the weight. We generally enclose most of the robot with either thin Lexan or punched aluminum. The Lexan is a good base for our stick on Wildstang decor and team numbers and is attached with Velcro to allow us access for repairs. The punched aluminum is riveted to the robot frame and is used to mount electronic and pnuematic parts. It is easy to mount these objects with ty wraps or hardware as needed.

NeedMoreEngines

01-02-2007, 10:41

What did you with the victor fan wires? do they go the speed controller power contact? we've always just sent them right to the circuit panel thing. is there an easier (shorter, really) way to do it?
if there is can you let us know?

Al Skierkiewicz

01-02-2007, 10:46

Mike,
I recommend teams wire the fans in parallel with the power input to the Victors. this is allowed under the rules and it is an easy indication that the Victor is getting power. You can shorten the wires leading to the fan and this will neaten up the wiring.

GMKlenklen

01-02-2007, 11:15

yah, but fans have a tendency to die and short out... I wire all mine to a seperate 20amp circuit breaker... if only i could get like a 5 amp or something.

Fred Sayre

01-02-2007, 11:45

Is there any chance at seeing an updated version of this panel? I know you said it was going off to be weighed, so im guessing it is completed by now. It appears very efficient and neat, and I hope that it meets your requirements well.

The board came out to be about 7lbs with everything except the four remaining victors. The kids were half way through finishing the wiring up for those on tuesday and should finish tonight. If they do, I will post another picture.

What did you with the victor fan wires? do they go the speed controller power contact? we've always just sent them right to the circuit panel thing. is there an easier (shorter, really) way to do it?
if there is can you let us know?

Mike,
I recommend teams wire the fans in parallel with the power input to the Victors. this is allowed under the rules and it is an easy indication that the Victor is getting power. You can shorten the wires leading to the fan and this will neaten up the wiring.

This is what we did. We shortened the fan wires, and rotated the fans so that the wires go directly down to the power inputs to the victors. It is way easier and makes things much cleaner.

yah, but fans have a tendency to die and short out... I wire all mine to a seperate 20amp circuit breaker... if only i could get like a 5 amp or something.

I have never had this happen to any fan on any machine I have ran in the past four years. Was there any specific circumstances that caused these failures?

Al Skierkiewicz

01-02-2007, 12:20

yah, but fans have a tendency to die and short out...
There is no reason for the fans to die dependent on where they are wired. You do need to watch polarity and you must not wire them to the Victor outputs, power input only please.

GMKlenklen

02-02-2007, 15:17

well now I feel sorta cheesy...
but anyways, If these fans are anything like computer fans, they can randomly die.

Molten

03-02-2007, 11:19

I noticed you were not using any relays. You might want to consider this based on your overall design. The setup does look nice and organized.

RedHeadRobotics

03-02-2007, 11:23

The layout of the components is really neat. But I would worry that the wires the the VIC motors would be too small and would melt if the current was too strong.

Fred Sayre

03-02-2007, 23:06

I noticed you were not using any relays. You might want to consider this based on your overall design. The setup does look nice and organized.

Believe me, we have considered at great length the use of relays. Mostly because that generally means for us that we would be using pneumatics. We might end up with a relay added for a motor if we can't utilize a servo for a mechanism to raise our lifts.

The layout of the components is really neat. But I would worry that the wires the the VIC motors would be too small and would melt if the current was too strong.

The wires on the victors are the standard gauge as prescribed by the first rules. We have used it every year without problem.

Also check the pictures section... I will be uploading some updated stuff shortly.

seanl

03-02-2007, 23:32

did u guys use 10 gauge wire for the vics?

Team2002

06-02-2007, 16:18

Hello Everyone,

1) Whats the best place to mount the robot controller?

2) Whats the best way to mount the OI and joysticks?

Thanks,

Team 2002

Sharkbyte

14-02-2007, 00:28

Hello Everyone,

1) Whats the best place to mount the robot controller?

2) Whats the best way to mount the OI and joysticks?

Thanks,

Team 2002

1.) Depends on your robot, just make sure the lights are visible to the inspectors

2.) Several ways
Extruded aluminum: highly modular and very shiny, but gets pricy
Plexiglass: looks good and is relatively cheap, but reinforce it some way, as long sheets tend to flex (this is what we made our board out of last year)
Wood: Cheap, easy to work with, sturdy (go with 3/4" thickness), though you loose the "shiny factor" (we chose to make our board out of wood this year)

When mounting joysticks an control box, we use Velcro strips so components can be rearranged for transportation. (if you do this, don't skimp on the Velcro, because you don't want anything falling off during the excitement of competition) As for the OI, we just bolt it down.