How to attach wire to motors?

[jgraber]

What is the usual way to wire up misc FP or window motors, those that have some kind of connector plug on them?
Do you find and buy a matching connector, or cut off the plastic shroud and just solder wire directly to the motors? Thanks.

[Vikesrock]

Most teams find an appropriate sized female spade connector to mate with the connectors on the motors. Once you have the female connector on the motor you can use pliers to squeeze the connector a bit for a more snug fit.

[Devo1098]

Be EXTREMELY careful with the female connectors, their made to be removed, even if you don't want them, i recommend power pole and solder.

buy a radio shack soldering iron, 35 or higher watts, some solder and a sponge, tin the wire and the tabs (break off the plastic shroud) solder on, cover with heat shrink. if you want it removable put a set of power pole connectors in the line, mcmaster sells them cheap in packs of 5. this is a much better electrical connection and tons more reliable. bad wiring can RUIN even the greatest of robot designs. i also recommend capacitors on the 545/can motors, because they are very noisy.

[ChuckDickerson]

The above advice seems reasonable for the Denso motors but what about the Keyang? It doesn't seem like too good of an idea to solder the that connector. Does anyone know what the actual connectors are for the Denso and Keyang motors are and where to get them?

[rogeryoung]

We used one of the window motors for our lift last year. I'm not sure if the plugs were included in the KOP. I think I went to Kragen Auto and bought a couple. You might try your local auto supplier.

[jgraber]

Thanks for your help, the suggestions so far are
1: generic spade lug of right size
2: find custom fit connector at Kragen Auto or other source
(Any other pointers to custom connector sources would be useful)
3: cut off plastic shroud and solder directly to lug

Options 1,2 allow motor to be "COTS unmodified status"
Option 3 (solder) perceived to be higher reliability, no parts needed, but probably causes motor to be "modified from COTS" status, if that matters.

Re "modification" vs "COTS unmodified status";
How are these usually judged?
Soldering to a solder lug, I'm guessing not count as mod.
Soldering to a spade lug, count as mod or not?
Cutting off a plastic shroud, does that count as modification?
If the shroud is removeable and replaceable, and we remove it, does that count as modification?

Thanks

[jgannon]

Re "modification" vs "COTS unmodified status";
How are these usually judged?
Soldering to a solder lug, I'm guessing not count as mod.
Soldering to a spade lug, count as mod or not?
Cutting off a plastic shroud, does that count as modification?
If the shroud is removeable and replaceable, and we remove it, does that count as modification?
The stated intent of <R53> is "that the maximum power level of every ROBOT is the same" and "not to gain a weight reduction by potentially compromising the structural integrity of any motor". In particular, modifications to improve the interface between the motor and the rest of the electrical system would appear to fall under the spirit of <R53-C>, "The electrical input leads on the motors may be trimmed to length as necessary", as well as the clause allowing "teams to modify mounting tabs and the like". As always, only an answer on the Q&A can be considered official, but my assumption is that all of the modifications you describe are legal.

[Pico2009]

if anyone can tell me how to connect the motors of the camera it would be really appreciated

[Vikesrock]

if anyone can tell me how to connect the motors of the camera it would be really appreciated

The "motors" used with the camera Pan/Tilt kit are known as Servo motors. These motors should be connected to PWM channels on the Digital Sidecar using a PWM cable.

In order to enable the PWM channels to drive a servo motor a jumper must be placed across the 2 pins next to the PWM port you are using for the servo.

[Seat Ninja]

Female connectors and lots hot glue, make yourself a plug? We're gonna run into the same problem later (yeah, we're behind schedule). I know that in previous years we've gotten the connectors in the KOP, but this year, i don't know.

[Al Skierkiewicz]

The FP motors are difficult for several reasons. Soldering is the best but there is a temperature controller within the motor (I have not verified this for this years KOP yet.) and too much heat during soldering will damage it. The end plate ofr the motor is also the brush holder, so if you heat it too much, brush alignment can be affected. The FP motor uss a smaller version of the push on connectors available in most hardware stores. Digikey does sell the right style however. If you are good at soldering and feel comfortable undertaking this task, be aware that the terminals on the motors do have a protective coating that is displaced by the push on connectors. Cleaning and scarping make soldering a much easier (and quicker) task.

[jgraber]

The stated intent of <R53> ... As always, only an answer on the Q&A can be considered official, but my assumption is that all of the modifications you describe are legal.

Thanks. I was not concerned with legal allowed, I'm just new to the concept of "identical spares" vs "COTS" vs "modified COTS" classes as far as shipdate and 40lbs allowance.

The FP motors are difficult for several reasons. Soldering is the best ... If you are good at soldering and feel comfortable undertaking this task, be aware that the terminals on the motors do have a protective coating that is displaced by the push on connectors. Cleaning and scarping make soldering a much easier (and quicker) task.

Thanks, I'd not have though about that until too late.