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Wiring a Fisher Gear Motor
Hello Everbody,
I represent Team 1748, and we need help wiring. Do anyone know how to wire a fisher price motor. We would also like to know what gauge key to use for a victor or a jaguar. We appreciate the help for this. |
Re: Wiring a Fisher Gear Motor
I don't know how much you know, so I'll give the info in whole.
Victor/Jaguar depends on if you want it to just be on and off or if you need fine control over it. A Victor works well enough for digital control (such as a button on a game controller), but a Jaguar is more useful for throttling. I trust 14 AWG wire for most of our motors, and I believe a 20 amp breaker (although I would have to check it's not 30). The motor itself attaches to small female connectors, but it's notoriously a loose connection. Make sure the connectors are new and fit tightly (you may also want to tape them on). That's all I can say towards wiring it. Sorry about the other question. |
Re: Wiring a Fisher Gear Motor
You have to refer to r44
Application Minimum wire size 40A circuit 12 AWG (2.052mm) 30A circuit 14 AWG (1.628mm) 20A circuit 18 AWG (1.024mm) With that said, I would recommend soldering wires to the terminals of the fisher price motor. I find it difficult to put 12 gauge wire on the terminal and I usually use 14AG and 30 amps for the FP. |
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FPs can easily draw up to 40A. Select the fuse and corresponding wire gauge as is appropriate for its application. |
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Spikes are for strict digital-only. |
Re: Wiring a Fisher Gear Motor
Triga,
The FP motors have a smaller terminal than that used for other electrical connections on the robot. I believe they are 3/16" instead of the 1/4" used for other devices like the Spike. Soldering is recommended to keep the terminals or wiring in place but it requires an experienced person to do so. The FP (and other motors) have an internal thermal circuit breaker. In the FP motor, this protection device is connected directly to the terminals. Soldering can pull this assembly out of alignment inside the motor and make it fail. We use a flag terminal of the proper size, soldered to the end of the motor wire. Then after scraping the motor terminal to remove the protective film, we push the terminal into place and solder the terminal to the motor. We follow this with a piece of heatshrink tubing and then bend the wires down along the side of the motor and using a wire tie, secure them in place. Any tug or vibration on the motor wire is likely to fatigue the motor terminal without this secondary strain relief. |
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There were posts last year about the output curve of the Jaguar not being as smooth as the victor, giving bad output to the Window Motors, if I remember correctly. And making a victor go bad is quite difficult. |
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Smaller and lighter for the same basic power capability. No built-in restriction on current draw, letting systems push the boundaries of ultimate capability before failure. The slower PWM output of a Victor actually helps certain mechanical systems to work better at slow speed. |
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The higher PWM output frequency of the Jag causes somewhat less motor heating (for the same output torque) compared to the Vic, for some motors at slow speed. Quote:
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Also, note that FPs are required to be controlled by a Jag or a Victor (NOT a spike). R50a. |
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