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Three joint arm
Hey, I'm the new build team leader of our team (#2212 The Spikes) and I decided to have the crew bulid soething we've neve tried before. We decided on building a multiple-joint arm, preferrably more than two, just to make things a little more interesting.
Did anyone ever see (or build) such a thing and direct me to someone who can explain it to me, or atleast a team? Pictures would be very helpful too. Thanks in advance, Bar, #2212 |
Re: Three joint arm
Wildstang's 2007 robot comes to mind (3rd joint pivoted along arm's axis, allowing them to reach to the side). If you do this, you should also devise a way to control such an arm reliably, there is no point in having a fancy arm if the driver can't use it effectively.
http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/photos/27788 http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/photos/27192 |
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But thank you very much :) |
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Team 33 2005 was a double jointed arm, and 2007 was a triple (shoulder, elbow, and rotating wrist). There is a lot of good documentation on the 2007 arm in the Behind the Design book from 2007.
Most FRC games I have seen can effectively be played with the 2 joint arm. The third joint adds more complexity than it would likel be worth for many games, but it would be a good learning exercise. I think it is wise to protype an arm as the likelihood for a pick and place game is pretty high this next year. Also important to any arm design is the object manipulator. Instead of doing a 3rd joint, I would focus some effort on trying to pick up an odd shaped piece like a cone, cylinder, or some other non-ball shaped piece (inner-tube, tetra, box...). |
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Our 2001 and 2007 robots have several joints.
Another picture of the '07 The CAD will be posted to FRC-Designs.com soon. |
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Team 2056's 2011 robot is another example of a successful 3 jointed arm.
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Team 1519's 2007 robot was a triple joint. ![]() |
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EDIT: BrendanB beat me to it :P |
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Our too-slow, wonky-clawed two joint arm could pick up from the floor and place objects up to 12 feet off the ground. Why would you need a third?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m3TE2FCp9A8 |
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For the 2011 year we built a three jointed arm: shoulder, elbow and wrist. The picture below shows them fairly well -
http://team1912.com/photos/mediapage...ach11/_h21.png From that year we learned 3-jointed arms are probably not the best idea. (although i dont doubt that effective ones can be beautifully made). We could have built something with less degrees of freedom that would have weighed less, been easier to control, and operated in faster and safer mode. It was a hard learned lesson and I hope we don't make similar mistake any time soon. |
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My suggestion would be to do everything you can to make the segments farthest from the attachment point of the arm as light as possible. and those closest to the attachment point as strong as possible. Flexing and torque are your enemy. I suggest very thin wall high-strength aluminum round tubing for the last section or two, 1/16th for the second segment, and 1/8th for the first. I also recommend that all segments except for the last one be constructed from two parallel sections. this makes the load distribution more symmetrical and results in less twisting. Your first joint will need either a strong motor, or large bore pneumatic cylinders. to reduce the torque caused by the large cantilever, place the motors at the beginning of the segment before the one that it moves. Also, the first segment should be balanced with surgical tubing so that it is stable with the arm folded. To get an idea of the kind of load the arm will be under, bolt three pieces of aluminum together and bolt one end down to something sturdy so that it pivots at that end. Then try to lift it from the pivot end.
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Here's a short clip of our 3-jointed arm from 2007. The controls were fairly simple, because for that game most of the joints could be slaved to the position of a master joint. So the arm driver just specified where the tip needed to go and the rest of the arm followed.
There was a tightly constraining 80" cylinder written into the rules that year, so the software managed all the joints to keep the whole arm within that imaginary cylinder. The arm was modeled and controlled in Vex first to test the control logic. |
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My personal design philosophy is single-joint or bust. Simpler to build, easier to control, easier to program, fewer points of failure, and require fewer motors (and speed controllers). There are plenty of other options to increase an arms "reach" other than adding more joints.
I do appreciate the desire and lessons that can be learned from taking this on as an off-season project, especially in regards to the control perspectives. |
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68's robot from 2011 had 3 joints (well 2 and 1/2; we had a shoulder, a elbow, and could flick our "wrist".)
Skip to 2:57 for the arm, sorry I couldn't find any better pictures. They're all at school. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWKMNXKR7Ns |
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My Arm Design Methodology:
1. What orientation is the scoring object in when I pick it up? 2. What orientation is the optimum orientation of the object for scoring? 3. What elevation changes do I need to make to the object? 4. What is the simplest mechanism I can use to accomplish the above orientation and elevation changes? Now, #4 is a bit tricky since "simplest" is somewhat subjective. How do I define "simplest"? My personal concept:
IMHO, multiple jointed arms rarely result from this methodology... -John |
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I put "need" in quotes because of the 2011 1503 machine that seemed to defy common logic on what was needed to be excellent. I would put team 25's "2012 bridge manipulator" in the same category. |
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I know it's not FRC, but I thought of NI's Scorbot ... if your school offers Computer Integrated Manufacturing or something like it, you've likely got one of these in-house.
The joint controlling motors are housed near the shoulder joint; the motor at the hand operates the end effector. This design also turrets. |
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-Nick |
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That's why our 2011 robot had a two-joint arm: reaching the floor and the top peg while fitting within the starting configuration. There were of course other ways to do that -- single-joint arm with an extender or forklift-type mechanism, but I don't know that they were in fact any easier or more elegant than what we came up with. (Some were faster, which mattered far, far too much! :) )
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Here's a look at out 2 jointed arm. The Shoulder is chain driven by the cim on the top half of the robot and the second stage of the arm is driven by a window motor. The claw was controlled by a pneumatic piston that opens and closes. The metal on the arm was .060 i believe, and had aluminum circle tubing that spanned to each side that we riveted into it. This would be something to look at. Message me if you want some more pictures. You could use this for some ideas. :)
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The driver drove the arm into a hard stop to go to the down position, to pickup he extended the claw out, as soon as he had the tube he released the extension and could rotate the arm up and raise the list to position at the same time without haveing to adjust to rotational joints. The extension had multiple effects, it kept the arm as short as possible so it wouldn't sway bounce or move as far during adjustments, it gave us a quick move to steal tubes if was were going at the same one as an opponent, protected the claw by keeping it inside the robot perimeter most of the time, and allowed us to hang middle row without raising the lift. In my experience the easier it is for the driver to understand the movements the better they drive. 2 rotational joints allow multiple ways to get to the same position and creates many possible combinations. of how to get there. Which violates the very solid design rules that JVN outlined above. |
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Three joints arm is hard to the driver to control. my team had in 2011 1 joint and a telescope which is much simplier and more effective
https://picasaweb.google.com/1136626...48580818847090 https://picasaweb.google.com/1136626...48660390128850 |
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Elaborating on JVN and Ike's point...
If additional joints and DOF are necessary, simplifying their execution is key. Our 2011 arm utilized a rotation "elbow" and a very simple "wrist". The wrist only allowed us to fit inside the starting envelope at the beginning of the match and hold the roller claw parallel to the floor. Small pneumatic cylinder with a 1/4-20 bolt as the pivot point. Super simple, super effective. -Brando |
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Yup, ease of use should always be high on the design priority list. The reason we went with screw drives (in restrospect at least partially a mistake) is because it was easy to make push-button controls for each necessary height -- there was a driver override just in case something went wrong with the encoders, but otherwise all the positions were pre-set and slaved to specific buttons.
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A few people have mentioned surgical tubing to help out the motors. Definitely look into this or maybe air shocks, which we used last year on our arm.
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Thanks alot guys, I found your replies really helpful :)
We might actually go for two joints after all, but it's still a great discussion so no reason to stop here... |
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Team 1538's arm in 2011 was really neat, using a single joint powered by a motor and then gas shocks on the roller claw that moved the claw into the correct position without the need to power the 2nd joint directly.
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1731's arm in 2007 was nothing short of epic, both in how it was built and in how it was controlled. It had a z-rotating (aka yaw) turret at the base, a x-axis rotation shoulder (aka pitch), a x-axis rotating elbow (pitch), a y-axis rotating wrist (aka roll), and some sort of x-axis rotating grasping mechanism.
It was all controlled by a near-identical arm made of potentiometers on the drivers station. Was it 100% necessary? No. But it DID work well, which was benefit 1. Benefit 2 was the incredible amount of unique materials used compared to the competition at the time. For a tech company, Benefit 1 pays the short-term bills, and Benefit 2 is what brings in licensing royalties long after other companies "innovate" in the tech space (Xerox is a great example). |
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http://www.mcmaster.com/#gas-shocks/=hmecz4 edit: go to reducible force springs |
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Of course, you can buy adjustable gas shocks as Akash said, this is more expensive. The nice thing about surgical tubing is that it is very cheap. But if you are willing and have the budget to spend the money, then it is worth it. |
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Changing the mounting points isn't that hard. If you know what you need/what you have, take a drill and make more holes (your robot probably needs them anyway). The calculations shouldn't be that onerous, and I would guess that you would actually want to do the calculations for surgical tubing as well. |
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