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Step by Step Hole Reaming Instructions
In order to machine our own gearbox side plates or chassis rails, we're going to need to ream some 1.125" and .875" bearing holes. We can do this in house, vs having to go out of house to CNC machine.
What is the sequence of events that takes place en route to reaming the hole? In particular, how many intermediate drill sizes are we going to need? Currently we don't own any drills larger than 1/2", so in order to ream holes we're looking at investing in both a reamer and the intermediate drills that will be necessary. What size would you drill the final hole before reaming? Would you recommend a 1.125" and .875" reamer, or something slightly undersized? The bearings will either be pressing into a sideplate (3/16 or 1/4) or a nano-tube style chassis rail/gearbox of 1/8" wall, 6061 or 6063 aluminum. Thanks. |
Re: Step by Step Hole Reaming Instructions
I'd recommend a drill that's 1/64th under, and when you run the reamer, go slow RPM. To get a press fit, you'll need a reamer that's about a half-thou under size. Or, don't rely on press fits.
One trouble you'll have is finding reamers in those sizes with a 1/2" shank. You might also consider looking into TCT hole cutters in those sizes. |
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If you can't dependably do press fits, then design around it. Make sure that all bearings are retained from both sides by either their flanges or snap rings/shaft collars. All the press fit is doing in this case is making sure the bearings don't fall out. |
Re: Step by Step Hole Reaming Instructions
What I did when cutting 1.125 bearing holes in 1/8 wall box beam. Started with quarter, then straight up to 1 inch, the largest drill we have. The pilot should be just big enough for the center part of the 1" drill which is not center cutting. Then I bored the hole to just under, and reamed it by hand to the final size.
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To this point we haven't needed to rely on a press fit for bearing retention. We can design in flanges on the bearings, spacers, e-clips, etc to keep the bearings in place.
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Re: Step by Step Hole Reaming Instructions
I'm looking to doing the same, machining 1-1/8 inch holes to a tight tolerance. I've been looking in to either a "sheet metal cutter" which can do 1/4" (e.g. http://www.trick-tools.com/Sheet_Metal_Cutters_81) or an annular cutter with a weldon shank adapter for our R8 mill.
I'd like to know if anyone with machining experience could comment on the above? |
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The only good ways to get a dimensionally accurate hole to tight tolerances with manual equipment are reaming and boring. Boring is better as it will give you both a straight and dimensionally/positionally accurate hole while reaming will follow the existing hole. If it's not straight, or on location, your reamed hole won't be either. |
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Re: Step by Step Hole Reaming Instructions
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It's possible you could use an annular cutter or a hole saw if you were willing to live with a loose bearing fit. The annular cutter is probably going to do a better job. You could also buy an end mill in the size you want, which would do a pretty good job. That would run you about 60 bucks for a 1.125". |
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Re: Step by Step Hole Reaming Instructions
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If I'm understanding your question correctly you're asking if you can change the cutting diameter of the boring head without retracting it from the hole? To adjust the cut diameter you have to turn a screw that is mounted radially on the body. The machine has to be stopped to do this, but if you're inside the hole and you try to increase the cut diameter you will push the boring head against the wall of the hole (see below). ![]() You could do it in the hole if you moved one axis of the machine away from the hole, but you will still have to retract the tool from the hole and come back to the zero position to re-start your cut . This is common on CNC mills, so that they can retract the boring bar from the bore without scraping the wall. |
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Re: Step by Step Hole Reaming Instructions
Using a drill press to get a located hole I suppose one could use a height gage to scribe a x y on to the piece. Then use a center punch and a center drill to get a good start on the hole. Then I would take a .257 drill bit to drill a pilot hole. Once you got the pilot hole one would use a ground c'bore to the press fit size for the bearing with a .250 pilot to guide the cbore.
See this link to see what I'm talking about. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Counterbore |
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