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Super excited to see your finished robot, Mark! Hope you finish up that CAD soon :)
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Love the holes in the square extrusion, we did this by hand last year on our robot and it was completely worth the time.
Did you have yours machined or was it manual? |
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What CAD ;) Quote:
The debate on whatever doing a hole pattern in every rail is worth it or not is one that my team is still kinda spilt on. A lot of people have told me that I could have "saved a lot of time" if i just drilled the holes I "needed". I however believe that having a standardized bolt pattern to be a life saver and make general construction a breeze. And allows for fast changes to the design, plus doing them on the mill makes sure they are all square and dead on, and with our machine abilities it wasn't that much time. |
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Some of the bars can be seen in this post. We ended up needing the holes very often for design changes. We added a separate section to our ball elevator in about an hour because we already had all the holes ready. I'd really like to see more teams use this construction method. Are you using all 1/8" or is most of that 1/16"? We did all 1/16" and only had a few poles bend due to ramming into the bridges but otherwise it worked out perfectly. |
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The 2x1 is all 1/8th and the rest of the structure is a mix depending on what joints require more strength, we did have some bending issues with 1/16th last year and the bridge as well. |
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Makes one wonder why someone doesn't produce and sell 1x1 holed square tubing. Closest product I could find was 1.5" x 1.5" "Holey Tubing" sold by 80-20 guys. Are you listening Andy?
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Looks beautiful! |
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I still don't understand how people are thus far in their robot build. We are still desiging in CAD, but have sent out parts to get water-jetted. Maybe We're just behind... but oh well!
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But for teams looking for a nice way to build robots in a small shop, I would highly recommend this method. The holes don't have to be perfect to be useful, just close enough. We used a 13/64 drill bit so it's a clearance hole for a #10-24 and small enough for a 3/16" rivet. We did it all on a cheap Ryobi Drill Press. Most people don't believe it when we tell them it was done by hand. |
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Like most hand produced but repetitive tasks this job can be improved with a jig for quick alignment of the holes. Here is one example of how it could be done, no markings necessary.
http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/uni...ess/index.html |
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If you want a really long setup, you could make a similar jig and use a previously drilled bar as an indexing plate. As long as you use the same bar as your indexing plate, all the copies of it would be pretty similar. |
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It took me about 15 mins to get people to start doing bolt patterns on our in shop mini mill which has an DRO. And because all they had to do was turn a dial to .5 increments they were dead on precise. I used the CNC Bridgeport for the longer rails (anything over 11 inches) due to the extra travel and speed. |
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The mill was a fairly recent acquisition that the team had not yet had time to learn how to use efficiently, so we made do with the experience we did have. I agree that using the mill to drill the holes would have been preferable, both in the interest of accuracy and in the interest of teaching skills. As always, it was a matter of utilizing the resources and experience available. |
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It's currently $40 for 6 feet of 1x1x1 C channel. (This is thicker sheet metal and not extrusion but I would think it's comparable.) |
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