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Balancing a Pneumatic wheel
We've got 2 6" Andymark pneumatic wheels on our shooter, and we were having some major issues with vibration due to the air spigot throwing off the weight distribution. We removed the innertubes entirely and filled them with bubble wrap which helped some, but it still vibrates badly because the tire doesn't seat particularly well without inflation. For teams that are using pneumatic shooter wheels, what did you do to balance them?
Also, did anyone find a different type of wheel to be superior? |
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We are using a single 8" pneumatic wheel and the team taped a few small nuts/bolts into the spoke opposite of the filler tube. Works fine.
We were running the tire without an innertube but discovered it flattened out too much and it was difficult to get a good grip on the disk. |
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We used 1/4 oz tire weights from Harbor Freight - they're adhesive backed and worked like a charm!
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Two long bolts on the holes opposite of the air nozzle, with washers stacked on them. Our sweet spot was 9 washers on each bolt, give or take a few for others depending on bolts/nuts and such.
Am I the only one that watches lunch with Andy? |
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Step 1: Take the inner-tube out.
Step 2: Fill the tire with pool noodle which has been cut in half. Step 3: Thank your friendly M'Aiken Magic mentor from South Carolina. Works like a champ, promise. |
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Seriously, don't forget to take into account that these wheels are running at speeds they were NOT designed for. Make sure anything you attach to them can handle the speeds. |
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Do what we did: Just take the tubing out! Literally. Just the hub and the rubber tire. No inner tube. It works beautifully.
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When you couple the strong adhesive and with the centripetal force of the wheel, there's no way these puppies will fly off. |
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I know team 3130 removed the whole inner tube and replaced it with pool noodle and had great success with it.
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The wheels are well balanced (though there is still enough vibration to matter) and there is a shield in place to keep debris from flying out if something comes apart at speed. |
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Here's how I did it:
I also used stick on lead weights for RC airplane balancing, but I simply did not trust just double sided sticky tape to hold them inside the wheel. I stuck the weights on where they needed to go and then I used 30 minute epoxy as the final balancing "weight". This also helps to secure the weights in place. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK204&P=ML The fourth picture is what happens after you spend time balancing the wheel and the tire decides to spin the tube inside the wheel resulting in an unbalanced wheel... |
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We used nuts and bolts, with various amounts of washers, at up to three points around each wheel. And a cover over the whole shooter assembly. |
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I don't know how this works against us though. Considering our weights are on the very outer edge of the plastic hub, pushing them outward away from rotation keeps them more solidly in place. |
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I don't see a way for them to fly out. |
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To be honest, why not put the wheel on a shaft between a pair of bearings? It takes almost all of the imbalance out of the system. Try McMaster 5913K71 bearings for 1/2" shafts...
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For two, the centrifugal force of the wheel keeps them lodged. I don't see any way for them to come out when you pair the two of these together. Imagine being on a gravitron, except also being taped to your seat with a super strong adhesive. Are you going to get anywhere? |
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Regardless of how you balanced your tire it is possible for anything to fly off including bolts with washers used for balancing or even the whole wheel so shield your spinning items if possible to protect from flying objects.
BTW tire shops use adhesive weights for balancing car tires. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...beMJV74VR9N7gl |
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Has anyone looked into Dyna Beads?
There used mainly for balancing motorcycle tires. Should work for us. http://www.innovativebalancing.com/index.php Here is a Youtube video showing how they work. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eq263AYgyYg |
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As others have said, it is certainly a physics concept and being able to explain the difference between centripetal and centrifugal force is a key indicator that you understand what a reference frame is, and how they work. In college, particularly in Orbital Mechanics or Mechanism design this intuitive understanding becomes very important as the vector math gets real crazy, real quick. Any good physics textbook should have a reasonably in depth explanation, an old xkcd comic does a decent job in a blurb, and of course Wikipedia goes into much more depth. |
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Maybe you could post a photo? Of course, if your team is convinced that it's safe, then you only need to convince the inspectors, not me. |
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OK, time to add a few words of sense to this discussion.
1. Adhesives, particularly double sticky tape are not fasteners. We can argue industrial adhesives but so far I have not seen anyone discuss these yet. 2. The tread of the pneumatic tires you are discussing cannot take the force of the wheel speeds that will be generally encountered. I believe the operative phrase is "destructive disintegration". Have you noticed how hard it is to find any speed data on these tires? 3. The imbalance and vibration is telling you something, you are not listening. 4. Just because you haven't witnessed parts leaving the flywheel yet, doesn't mean it won't happen. 5. Most of you are using motors that free speed above 15,000 RPM. Coupled to a 3:1 transmission, what numbers do you get? Direct drive on a 775 is over 7,000. I think you guys need to rethink your designs to be sure. Not pretty sure, not 'oh it will never happen' sure, really sure. Please remember that inspectors will be looking at your robot with this in mind... R08 ROBOT parts shall not be made from hazardous materials, be unsafe, cause an unsafe condition, or interfere with the operation of other ROBOTS. I am sure that if your design should cause any flying debris, an inspector will be asked to either disable your mechanism until such time as you can prove it won't hurt anyone or anything, or whatever it takes to prevent a re-occurrence. Now is the time to be really sure, not during competition. |
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For the tire wheel weights, mounted on the inside of a wheel: They are being used exactly as the MFR intended in a less severe than typical application. In this case the supplied double sided sticky tape is tested & sold for this application. Of course they need to be properly applied to a clean surface.
(squirrel alert) Industrial adhesives: Our shooter board & bumper backing is made of thin wood strips glued together with industrial adhesive. Fiber reinforced composite matrix to my materials professor. Plywood to my Home Depot salesman. |
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We are using the spin box with standard .500 keyed hubs and mounting hardware. The problem that we have found is the plastic hubs are out of round. No level of balancing would cure this issue, we tried. The id bore is to large for the hub and the thru bolt holes are to sloppy. This hub was not intended to spin at 5K rpm. We are now attempting to turn a new set of hubs out of HDPE and a drive shaft from 6061. We are hoping we can tru the hub and shaft. Our current setup runs and shoots OK but the vibration causes issues with the camera. As we progress I will post pics and CAD files if anyone is interested.
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Centripetal force is the force exerted by the wheel rim on the balancing weight, pushing the balancing weight toward the center of the wheel. It's what makes the balancing weight following the circular path. Centrifugal force is the reaction force exerted by the balancing weight on the wheel rim in response to the centripetal force. It is a real force. So Ksafin's only mistake was that he should have said "centripetal force" instead of "centrifugal force", because he was referring to a force acting on the weight. 1wikipedia |
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Our AndyMark hubs are round. Since they appear to be injection molded parts, I would expect them to be consistent. We are mounting them to a 5/8 dia Andymark hub with #10 screws. We made a 1-1/8D x 5/8D insert for the other side of the hub to keep it true to the shaft. If you are using 1/2 shafting, a 1/2 bearing would work there as well.
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There are many teams using these pneumatic tires on their shooter but I am getting the impression from your various posts that you are deeming them unsafe to use in this application. My concern is that you as a inspector or someone else will rule them illegal during inspection based on what you specified. This will in turn render a robot's shooter useless until another "more safe" wheel is used. Yes, these tires were not specifically designed to be used under these circumstances but I have yet to hear of one coming apart. I agree that great care needs to be taken in how they are mounted and balanced. Also, it is highly recommended some sort of shield be used to prevent any flying debris should something come loose. If a team takes these steps, do you see them capable of being used in a safe manner? |
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This still doesn't allow teams to use components beyond their rated capacities. Even with the best balance solution, if the wheel/tire falls apart, they are all dangerous. If the vendor description of the item has a 5000 rpm recommended limit, that should be considered the maximum safe operation condition. Regards, |
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The AM pneumatic wheels were DEFINITELY not designed for operation at, or anywhere close to 5000rpm. Neither are the banebots wheels many have used in their shooters. Nor ANY wheel I've seen in a wheeled shooter, though I would consider MOST shooters currently mounted on robots in their bags 'reasonably safe'. If they haven't blown themselves apart in testing, they likely won't during competition. Could it happen? Sure, there's wear and other things that aren't considered in my extreme oversimplification. I think robots should be designed to contain a failing shooter wheel, but restricting operation of robot parts to manufacturer provided values/use cases is just problematic. |
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All the wheels I have seen use on the Frisbee shooters are being used "off label" from what the manufacturer intended. Liability laws being what they are, I doubt you will get buy in from them if you asked. So it is incumbent on us to make sure our robots are safe. This very much includes making sure they are no loose bits on the wheel that can fly off and hurt some one. Also that you are not spinning the wheel at a speed that will make it come apart. Also checking the shooter wheel should be part of everybody's pit check list before every match. |
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F = mv2/r .... or .... F=mrω2 Centripetal acceleration: 20" at 120mph = 11,330 m/s2 ....... 8" at 5000 rpm = 27,854 m/s2 see attached Motorcycle vs Shooter Wheel centripetal acceleration calculator |
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I will grant you a 110% I will not put an Andymark pneumatic wheel on my motorcycle and try to go 110 MPH. I don't think my poor Volvo would go that fast either. The analogy breaks down pretty rapidly. :]
Here is a article on plastic car wheels. Doesn't really transfer to robot Frisbee shooters |
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Shu,
I am not saying that inspectors will make any decisions on the use of a particular tire. We cannot tell it's use during the inspection process. I am discussing the use of certain of the mentioned methods of attempting to correct vibration and balance. Again there is no way for inspectors to determine during the process if your design is safe or not. What I am trying to point out is that certain assumptions for high speed rotating objects may lead to unsafe conditions during play on the field. I don't want to see any team disabled by or for an unsafe condition and I certainly do not want to see anybody injured. From my calculations, many shooter designs exceed by more than 5 times the rotational speed of car tires. Even devices designed for road tires may not retain their design characteristics at your rotational speeds. Now is the time to be sure. For reference I suggest you look to videos of drag racing vehicles in the burnout box prior to a race. Be sure to take a close look at the tire profile during the burnout process. |
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Also, anybody that has spun up one of the AM pneumatic wheels 1:1 off a CIM with no air in the tire will tell you that the rubber of the tire deforms rather alot. It quite visibly pancakes at that speed with no air pressure to help it hold shape.
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Something that seems a little odd to me is that alot of teams used very similar shooter designs last year, and I don't remember seeing as many worries as I have seen this year. Would the wheels being horizontal vs vertical make that much of a difference?
BTW both last year and this year we used 2008 KOP Grey wheels, and we had no trouble running them at 5k rpms either year. |
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The discussion is centered on the pneumatic tire/wheel which I don't think was widely used on last year's robots as part of the shooter.
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We found that the valve stem was being pushed outward by centrifugal force.
So we put a zip tie around the valve stem and the bolts holding everything together. Seems to work well. Has been reliable. We are only running about 3000 rpm. We are not trying for real long shots. |
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After some thoughtful offline conversations.....
Al is more likely to inspect your robot than I am. Take heed of his words. Regards of who inspects your robot. It is your job to make sure it is safe. This means:
Apologies in advance if this sounds the least bit preachy. I am looking forward to seeing amazing things this year. |
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A couple of years ago, I leaned over my lawn tractor with the engine running and slipped and caught myself by placing my hand squarely on the spinning debris mesh on the top of the engine. Not fun. I was "single handed" for several weeks after that. So I would add #4: 4. put some sort of guard over the spinning wheel to protect wayward hands and contain pieces that might come flying off due to failures. |
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A major concern of mine regarding high speed rotating wheels that I stricktly enforced with the 4134 kids was loose clothing and long hair. Hanging untucked shirts, hoodie strings and espesially long hair pose significant saftey issues. Most of time the kids know where there hands are, but not the strings on their hoodie.
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Dangling chains, bracelets and chums, too.
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Basic rules of our build site. If you are in the build area
closed toe shoes safety glasses hair pulled back No danglies hoodie strings tucked in. |
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This is why my wedding ring stays in my dresser. I regularly work with rotating equipment & hot circuits (which you should never to begin with). I am paranoid that I will leave it some place.
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I have to second the "pool noodle" fix. We went the way of balancing the wheel but did not like the potential catastrophic results that might ensue. We tried the pool noodle and an increased speed gearbox on a cim. We were slamming the frisbee into the wall 51 feet away with only a 10 degree elevation of the shooter and a drop of 20 inches.
I can't see why anyone who now knows this would chance an injury resulting from flying debris when this can be done quite easily. I can't see of any circumstance where a tube is necessary and not replaceable with a noodle. (I guess if the whole mechanism is "buried" and too difficult to change it might be understandable). |
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Several things we found essential for being successful with this tire (over 100ft. range, full court shooter).
We are powering the semi circle shooter with a mini cim and spin gear box, mounted with a machined aluminum motor mount. ![]() ![]() |
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