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Integrated WCD "Warp drive" chassis
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I'm working on a off-season drive train project for our team. It takes some cues from the WCD.
It's made from 3 X 3" .120" box tube and uses the VEX ball shifter with a modified 3 stage with 34:50 gearing. The rear VersaWheel is directly driven and then chained to the middle VersaWheel with two sprockets, This wheel is then chained to the 3rd. The top of the chain runs inside the tube on and outside on the bottom chain for easy tensioning. Has anyone done anything similar to this? Any comments? |
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This reminds me of the Rock Box Chassis Rail from 221 Systems. The Rock Box has a very nice solution to chain tensioning in this case that you could draw inspiration from in your own projects.
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chain inside box tube is a pain in the @$$ to work with. unless you have access holes that i'm not seeing, its going to be really hard to get chain on the sprockets.
i was not really impressed with the versa wheels. in my experience they wear down really fast. my team ran them for about an hour of practice driving and 10 matches before they pretty much balded. picture (i understand that other teams have not had the same issues with the versa wheels wearing down that fast) |
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Wouldn't it be better to run the chain on the outside over the top, and on the inside on the bottom? Might make it easier to tension, rather than having to get under the robot. And also might avoid any issues with the chain damaging field elements/game pieces?
Oh, and yes, similar things have been made before, Andymark has been selling these for a couple years now. |
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The Chain runs outside the tube for half it's run so it shouldn't be two hard. I'll be adding more lightening holes soon so it should make it easier to access. |
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what is the advantage of this over cantilevering wheels?
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Might i suggest adapting this for eight wheels? Also, I think Plaction Wheels (or the VexPro Equivalent) with roughtop would be much better suited to this. We have roughtop tread on our wheels and the traction is tremendous.
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While definitions of WCDs vary, virtually all include cantilevered wheel shafts and sliding bearing blocks for chain tensioning.
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I designed a similar system (technical term/name for this style of drive is 'nested tube', see notes about WCD above) in 2011 when I was on 816 and it worked reasonably well, although servicing it was a complete pain - or at least when servicing anything out of the norm. Here are some pictures:
Frame: http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/photos/36107 Completed Chassis: http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/photos/36163 Some general specs: Drop Center 6WD 6" AM Plaction Wheels, Roughtop Tread AM Super Shifters, Standard Gearing Direct Drive Center Wheel, #35 Chain to outer wheels. That drive didn't have any method of tensioning* and we never had any issues with the chain tension through two regionals and the off season. The drive only ever had one major failure that I can remember - the tread on one of the wheels came off and lodged itself in between the wheel and the tube.... Other wise, aside from needing to swap out the roll pins in the Super Shifters for 4-40 screws (or the other way around, it's been a while) the drive was solid. * The Chains were 'dead spaced' meaning that they were spaced on exact center to center distances. #35 chain is really easy to dead space as it's a bit more forgiving to misalignment and weird tensions, #25 is a little more difficult, primarily due the tighter tolerances on tension and misalignment. (341's drive this year has a total of 6 #25 chain spans that have been dead spaced, no issues yet *knock on wood*) Another note on dead spacing in drive applications, I only recommend doing so if one of the wheels is direct driven from a transmission. If one wheel is direct driven and all other wheels are chain driven a lost chain shouldn't render the entire drive useless for the rest of the match. |
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WCDs also typically direct drive the center wheel off the transmission. This means that both chains must fail to lose both additional wheels. Will you able to quickly replace wheels on this chassis? (WCD cantilevering speeds up wheel replacements).
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With a CNC Plasma, I would consider doing drivetrains similar to 610. They have very nifty flat plate drivetrains, and is probably much easier to access and service. They cut their's on a CNC router.
http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/sh...&highlight=610 http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/sh...&highlight=610 |
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A wood panel under the workpiece is one of the easiest ways to do it, plastic is a good substitute, but a bit more expensive. For accuracy, it's common to have the router face a small amount of material off of the top to true it to the spindle. You can also get a vacuum table, but that is also more expensive. |
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You can see it in one of the images of there pdf http://team610.com/wordpress/wp-cont...-Edition-4.pdf it's a small picture though. It looks like some sort of a vacuum table with plastic relief?
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Not a vacuum table, those strap clamps are definitely doing the holding. I think they just have a sheet of plastic (the black part) as a backing.
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At Metal Supermarkets a 6x37 sheet of 6061 0.125 would be $30, and a 6x37 sheet of 5052 would be $24. That is pretty cheap to me, considering you only need 4 sheets. Why 37", and what is your source? |
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It's worth noting that the chain will wear in (stretch) after some use, so depending on how well your critical tolerances were held, this may or may not cause problems... |
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This makes me think of these
Way more heavy duty than is needed, but lots of good engineering and explanations for it on the website. Could be helpful. |
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I'm just lazy, I'm redoing the cad so it can be built in a plate configuration and fixing up the references |
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The top of our router's table has t-slots running down the length. In between the t-slots, the top surface has black Sintra strips glued to the surface. These came with our router, and we replace them around once a year. When we replace the strips, we face them down with the router to make sure the working surface is level. Whenever we cut a part on the router, the cutter goes through the part, and barely scratches the surface of the Sintra strips beneath. This does leave scratch marks on the Sintra, but not enough to warrant replacing them more than once a year. In hindsight, a vacuum hold-down table would've been a nice addition, but we've been able to do without. Cutting COMPLETELY THROUGH plate is easy. Cutting partially through thinner plate is an issue, because the middle section tends to lift off the surface of the table when clamped using the hardware above. |
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Over other plastics - yes - it turns out Sintra can be had for quite cheap, and we've started using it for some of our in-class projects and prototypes. Its surface properties are grippy enough to provide a nice clamping surface. Now we don't see the Sintra as a "sacrificial material" as we barely scratch the surface of it when we cut parts. As I mentioned before, these strips last us about a year before they get scratched up badly enough to be replaced. If you were considering using it for a true sacrificial material, where you're trashing the Sintra sheet every time you cut parts, then it's probably not going to be very cost-effective. |
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I can't remember any specific issues with sacrificial backing swelling, but I'm pretty sure we've had issues with it in the past. Don't read this the wrong way, coolant (especially mist coolant) is awesome, just swelling in the MDF backing can sometimes mess up milled parts. Also, that film of MDF dust and coolant mixed together that forms after a long day of milling is really gross... |
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Kind of reminds me of some 233 drivetrains of the past.
http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/photos/33366 http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/photos/31472 (The second one doesn't have wheels, but you can see from the bearings where they'd go). |
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I've been a little busy lately but here is the latest update:
I've modified the modules to the plate design with 4 wheels. It is properly dead spaced now (Thanks, that saved me a lot of headache). Unfortunately there is not a lot of room for spacers but hopefully the addition of a tire will add some rigidity. I could always add some plasma cut spacers if strength becomes a issue. We also learned how to use our bridgeport CNC with CAM software. Are last team "wave" didn't like using any computerized tools. Now we just have to buy endmills that aren't 0.02" off :) (It might have been a non standard endmill but we rarely buy those) If someone is interested I will post the CAD files here. |
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Very nice! Looks like it will be a lot easier to work with the chains now.
I assume you're going to be adding some lightening in there? Also, why can't you add more spacers in there? It looks like there's plenty of room |
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This design is actually very similar to our chassis layout this year and the one we used in 2011, except that we drove the center wheel of the chassis and had chain running from that to front and back.
You can see an exploded view here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIpXitkiu7U |
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You're right, now that a look at it there's a bunch of space. |
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