![]() |
Colson Wheels??
I'm trying to build a Colson wheel drive system but I need help!! How do I power them? What do I need to get it going? All help is appreciated!!!
|
Re: Colson Wheels??
Quote:
|
Re: Colson Wheels??
WCP products has two options, live axle and dead axle.
To use with the kitbot (dead axle) you'll need the hubs and two bearings for each wheel. |
Re: Colson Wheels??
WCProducts has some good products to help you get started. They make both live axle and dead axle hubs for colson wheels.
Edit: Everybody has the same idea! These must be really good. |
Re: Colson Wheels??
http://wcproducts.net/wcp-00052/
http://wcproducts.net/wcp-00053/ Depending on whether you go live axle or dead axle, one of these will become your best friend. Basically, Colson wheels have no hub when you buy them, so either you have to machine your own, or buy these. |
Re: Colson Wheels??
i'm gonna be the weird guy and say you should get your colsons from battlekits.com
http://www.battlekits.com/robot_whee...th%20Sprockets i've used these before on non first robots and i highly recommend them. robutt marketspace has a good selection of colson wheels without hubs or sprockets. http://www.robotmarketplace.com/prod...on_wheels.html |
Re: Colson Wheels??
Quote:
|
Re: Colson Wheels??
We're using 6 6"x1.5" and really like them. We are finding, however, that both the WCP hubs and the ones we made ourselves can shift a bit over time. The next batch will have a shallow thread cut in them or be knurled. We also used an indexing head, narrow slit saw and horizontal mill to cut a diamond pattern to improve traction. The centre wheels are dropped about 1/8"
|
Re: Colson Wheels??
2 Attachment(s)
Here is what I have so far. Hope you guys like it, I've been using Solid Works for about 3 weeks now.. Constructive criticism is always welcome. :o
Attachment 14644 Attachment 14645 |
Re: Colson Wheels??
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:
|
Re: Colson Wheels??
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Attachment 14647 Those small circles are roller bearings for the belts that can be adjusted up and down. |
Re: Colson Wheels??
Quote:
|
Re: Colson Wheels??
Quote:
be careful |
Re: Colson Wheels??
Quote:
|
Re: Colson Wheels??
Quote:
|
Re: Colson Wheels??
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:
I suggest one longer wrap on one side of the pulley and idlers that guide the other side of the belt around the pulley. |
Re: Colson Wheels??
We used Colsons last year on our pivot drive and were very satisfied. See photographs:
http://wiki.team1640.com/index.php?t...0412_csm-2.jpg http://wiki.team1640.com/index.php?t...27_ csm-3.jpg It was not as easy to install a sprocket as with AndyMark or VexPro, but these wheels are designed to accept sprockets. Still, not so difficult. We opted for AndyMark HiGrip wheels this year. Light, inexpensive and easy. |
Re: Colson Wheels??
Quote:
(As a huge fan of your swerve as well as a huge fan of Colsons, this was one of the questions I forgot to ask while taking a look at your swerve at Lehigh) |
Re: Colson Wheels??
We run colsons every year, you will not be disappointed. As for belts, calculating the center to center distances for the pulley placement is well worth the effort (and it isnt very difficult). The Gates HDT belts that come in the KOP will not stretch or wear over the course of a competition season if they are tensioned properly and your belt runs are straight. Even if you implement them terribly, Gates makes really high quality belts, it is doubtful you will break one.
Also, that WDC looks great, if you use this drivetrain, chances are it will be one of the best at any regional you attend. |
Re: Colson Wheels??
Quote:
|
Re: Colson Wheels??
Quote:
|
Re: Colson Wheels??
Quote:
|
Re: Colson Wheels??
If you're insistent on one belt run per side, I think the simplest belt path is this. You can see the real thing here. I personally prefer this system, where there is no need for idlers.
Some tips and tricks for this system: 1.Make sure your pulleys are large enough. We had 15t pulleys and 9mm belt in 2011 and the belts ratcheted pretty badly. Since then we have used 24t pulleys and 15mm belt with no problems. 2. I assume those windows are for internal belts. I'd recommend covering them with 1/16 lexan to prevent debris from getting inside. You can see how we did that if you look closely in the pictures above. 3. Think long and hard about how you are going to weld this. We have moved away from welding in recent years because it is faster for us to gusset. If you are going to weld this, I'd suggest using the belly pan and some gussets as a jig for the welder to keep everything square during welding and to make sure everything is assembled properly. The belly pan can be welded directly to the frame and the gussets can be removed at the end. 4. Also think long and hard about how you are going to do your bumper rail. You can weld them, and if you do, I again suggest you mount the pieces in place first using some 8-32s. Alternatively, you could use rivet nuts to mount all the pieces together like we did here. 5. You need a way to retain your axles. We put a snap ring on the inside and we tap the ends of our axles and retain the wheels with a bolt and washer, like we did here. |
Re: Colson Wheels??
Quote:
|
Re: Colson Wheels??
Quote:
1) We measured the friction coefficients of the HiGrip wheels (on carpet) and were favorably impressed. 2) The weight and cost of the HiGrips were in the direction we wanted to go with our swerve units. 3) Ease of mounting was tertiary consideration. That said, I've always been a big fan of easy when it doesn't sacrifice performance. Mechanically, we never had a problem with driving the Colsons, but the same is true (so far) with the HiGrips. The HiGrips do wear faster. |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:40. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright © Chief Delphi