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coalhot 20-12-2013 20:47

Re: 3D Printing A Wheel
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by T^2 (Post 1315391)
I don't know what caused this, but I do know what problems this caused. The piece of the wheel that got knocked off also dislocated the tube that routes air from a fan to the nozzle. Without this air flow, the nozzle overheated. This afternoon, I found the ceramic insulation surrounding the nozzle burnt off, and the kapton tape that held on the insulation melted to the nozzle. I'll be having some fun over break...

We observed a similar issue with some of the Makerbot 2X's that the university's engineering program got about a week ago. One of the nozzles clogged, and the printer just kept going. It ended up "printing" in the air about 4-6 inches above the model when we stopped it.

Also, we've noticed a few of the prints have had peeling issues (where the model comes up off the kapton tape). While it hasn't affected the stuff we've been printing (more printer parts), it's something that shouldn't be happening. Have you guys been seeing anything similar?

saikiranra 20-12-2013 20:53

Re: 3D Printing A Wheel
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by T^2 (Post 1315391)
the kapton tape that held on the insulation melted to the nozzle.

The Kapton Tape MELTED to the nozzle? I thought they used it because it does not melt. (Control F "melting")

Thats crazy scary.

T^2 20-12-2013 21:00

Re: 3D Printing A Wheel
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by saikiranra (Post 1315401)
The Kapton Tape MELTED to the nozzle? I thought they used it because it does not melt. (Control F "melting")

Thats crazy scary.

Your post encourages me, actually. I assumed that the brownish color of the melted-on plastic meant that it was the kapton. We were using white filament, but maybe some just got on there long enough to burn brown. Most of the kapton-insulation layer sloughed off when I touched it, so I can't be sure.

Kevin Ray 23-12-2013 19:41

Re: 3D Printing A Wheel
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by coalhot (Post 1315398)
Also, we've noticed a few of the prints have had peeling issues (where the model comes up off the kapton tape). While it hasn't affected the stuff we've been printing (more printer parts), it's something that shouldn't be happening. Have you guys been seeing anything similar?

I'm not sure if this is the cure-all, but we've found that EVERY time we start a print we Windex the platform and wipe it dry. Also make sure that the plexi cover is in place. The slightest of convection currents wreaks havoc on the prints and can cause them to release.

seg9585 24-12-2013 01:42

Re: 3D Printing A Wheel
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by T^2 (Post 1315407)
Your post encourages me, actually. I assumed that the brownish color of the melted-on plastic meant that it was the kapton. We were using white filament, but maybe some just got on there long enough to burn brown. Most of the kapton-insulation layer sloughed off when I touched it, so I can't be sure.

Yes, white filament can burn brown. The tape wont burn (although I haven't used tape in months, as I use Aquanet on a glass plate instead).

I rarely find myself using .1 mm heights even when needing high precision prints. Usually 0.2 mm does the trick, or 0.15mm at the minimum. 230C should be fine

Recommend rafting to help the prints stick, if that was your issue. Also, you can try playing around with the custom slicer settings (edit profile) to change the thickness and print speed of the raft itself. Thicker base layers help it stick more!

I recently had the plastic fan part fail as well, it can be epoxied back together but Makerbot will send you a new one for free. Just MAKE SURE when you re-assemble, the duct is at least a few mm above the extruder nozzle tip. Sometimes outer parts of the print will warp upwards if building an overhang and that's what hits the duct.
Also, get used to taking the extruder apart and putting it back together. That's a standard maintenance task anyway which should be done weekly. After some practice, I get the stepper motor teeth opened, cleaned, and closed in under 5 minutes.

seg9585 24-12-2013 01:50

Re: 3D Printing A Wheel
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by T^2 (Post 1315407)
Your post encourages me, actually. I assumed that the brownish color of the melted-on plastic meant that it was the kapton. We were using white filament, but maybe some just got on there long enough to burn brown. Most of the kapton-insulation layer sloughed off when I touched it, so I can't be sure.

Oh sorry -- I had to look at your failed print more closely. Is that a single wheel that failed or a second next to it?
I saw you have rafting, but the model itself may have had an issue during compile.

I highly recommend you ALWAYS run your stl outputs through Netfabb before printing them, to avoid such errors.
http://cloud.netfabb.com/

the other possible issue is you could have been "air printing" a couple layers before filamenet continued to extrude -- thats a matter of extruder motor gear cleanliness and ensuring there's enough load on the spring-loaded drive block.

Qbot2640 24-12-2013 09:55

Re: 3D Printing A Wheel
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by seg9585 (Post 1316594)
I highly recommend you ALWAYS run your stl outputs through Netfabb before printing them, to avoid such errors.
http://cloud.netfabb.com/

I'm intrigued...what does this process do? I have been exporting my files as .stl from Solidworks, and using the Makerware software to put them onto the sd card. What change does the netfabb site make to the files?

seg9585 24-12-2013 21:08

Re: 3D Printing A Wheel
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Qbot2640 (Post 1316625)
I'm intrigued...what does this process do? I have been exporting my files as .stl from Solidworks, and using the Makerware software to put them onto the sd card. What change does the netfabb site make to the files?

It finds "holes" in the model that end up confusing slicers, sometimes to the point where they will not print in that location at all or even worse, start printing all future layers offset from where they are supposed to be. I can show you several examples of this if interested.
Netfabb replaces those holes with real triangle geometry and "unifies" the mesh.

I will say that the majority of my errors from original drawings come as a result of merged parts (via assembly, output as an .stl for single print), or for unusual geometry particularly from splines, and most especially when I export from Autodesk Inventor (for some reason). I recently switched to Solidworks and have had little issue yet, but I still run everything through netfabb and the program reports on its findings.


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