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FIRST Choice 3D Printer Lottery
We received notification this morning that we got a 3D Printer in the Lottery.
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we are getting the replicator 2 :)
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We got the Cube even though that was our third choice.
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Did the printers sell out? Did anyone get notified that they did not get one?
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The printers did not sell out. There are still 245 Cube printers left according to the website.
-Nick |
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Does that mean the prices will be reduced?
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I just checked, and we also received notification that our 3D Printer order has been successfully processed. For anyone looking or waiting for their confirmation/status, ours was sent at about 11:30am EST, this morning.
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We got a Replicator 2!
Absolutely thrilled! |
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With many teams already using 150 credits, they would not be able to spend more than the 450 credits they get on kickoff. This likely means that any reductions would be to 450 (or fewer) credits to make sure teams still have the opportunity to receive a printer.
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We are getting the M2 (our second choice).
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Gus received our third choice, too. The Cube.
Congrats to the lucky teams that scored the M2s and Replicator2s! This was an incredible opportunity that was secured on behalf on FIRST. Thanks to everyone who made this happen! Any 3D printer that only cost a team $40 in shipping is a gift. It was definitely worth spending our FC points. |
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We got the cube... still a 1200 dollar machine. I'm happy that we were at least able to get one!
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We got the Replicator 2, and we were wondering how to get the corresponding software for it. If anyone could tell us, it would be much appreciated :)
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yes, the printers MAY go down in credit price. here is the quote from the KOP team...
"If demand << inventory, everyone who selected the printer will be sent a printer (applying preferences as much as possible), and any remaining printers will remain in FIRST Choice. If inventory continues to remain, we may consider decreasing the number of credits required at Kickoff. In this case, teams who had already selected printers will be reimbursed the credit difference. " |
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57 got the MakerGear M2, our first choice. Sounds like we won the preference lottery.
For those winning the cube, here's a possible workaround: http://www.howmuchsnow.com/cube/ Though I've seen somewhere that it only works with a certain firmware version. |
Our team won a Cube 3D printer. I was just wondering whats so bad about them compared to a Makerbot? Or is there anything.
Just based on these post I'm getting the idea cube printers are not as good or wanted. Why is that. |
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1. Closed source. You have zero ability to modify or tweak the printer firmware or slicing software. This might not be a problem for most people, but it might make it impossible to print a tricky object. 2. Related to and enabled by 1, the printer requires you to use only filament provided by the manufacturer. At a severe markup over generic filament. With the M2, for instance, 57 can use its Inventables PDV to get additional ABS filament essentially for free. |
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http://www.makergeeks.com/cu3dprfiad.html |
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http://www.makerbot.com/makerware/ You may also like to try this one, probably be harder to use, but is likely to contain more possibilities (I can't say that for sure, I have used Repetier, but never tried Makerbot or Makerware): http://www.repetier.com/download/ |
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Although I am not advocating any kind of 'cheating', Cube may regret that they let FRC teams get ahold of their systems. Everything designed can be bypassed.
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We have used our extensively (500+ hours print time). The Replicator2 is very easy to use and setup. You can print directly from a computer or from an SD card. Use the Blue Painters tape |
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Besides, I can't imagine that modifying your own 3d printer is in any way illegal, or that any claims by the company that it is would hold up for a second in court. |
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But yes, of course someone will hack it, figure out the system, and eventually be thwarted by yet another move by Cubify. Restarting the cycle... Edit: Yep, been hacked already, but a costly solution. It appears that one can also 'reset' empty cartridges to seem full if you load older firmware - and then use generic filament. |
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While we're on the topic, does anyone have a hack to reload Dimension SST 768 cartridges? Those things are $260 apiece for 56 cubic inches of print.
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If you're interested in this, let me know, and I can share where our team got to. |
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I'm not too concerned about that in the case of the Cube, if the manufacturer wants to over charge for its supplies by a factor of 5 times or more, people will make a workaround for it until they come to their senses and charge reasonable prices. |
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As for people who've owned the Makerbot Replicator2 in the past, quick question:
Is the addition of the blue painters tape very important? Necessary? |
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I would not print without it on our Replicator2. It makes it so much easier to remove a part. |
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I would not print without it on our Replicator2. It makes it so much easier to remove a part. |
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I use Aquanet hair spray to give the platform a little stickiness, and use a paint scraper to remove the part from the platform. Highly recommend this method. |
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I have never heard of this before. We will be incorporating this method for sure. |
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Do you have any suggestions for best work practices? maintenance, etc? |
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I've heard good things about a dilute mixture of water + Elmer's school glue (PVA glue) for getting PLA and ABS to stick. Something like a 10:1 ratio, then you let it dry to a film.
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Regarding maintenance: You should make it a habit to lube the Z-axis rod weekly. Very easy, I just move the plate to the highest position and rub lube along the entire rod. Every 2 weeks or so (or after a jam), clean out the extruder drive gear. A little plastic dust builds up in there. I usually just use an old toothbrush. Every few weeks I also lube up the non-driving belt pulleys. I re-level the build plate whenever it's moved or after about 10 prints. Also recommend getting a glass build plate, I got one custom sized for about $20+shipping at a local custom glass store. It makes the prints super smooth on the bottom and the plate is very straight and level (I had issues with the acrylic plate, as it was slightly warped enough for the parts to fall off mid-print). |
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There's something about applying aerosols, liquids, films, and mixtures to my build plate that I don't like..
We once put a bit of ABS in a jar of acetone and then applied the acetone/ABS mixture on our build plate and it just messed it up pretty badly. I'll stick with blue painters tape tyvm. |
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If applying glue/spray to a build plate is harmful and the plate lasts, say, 50 prints, it's already cheaper just to get a new plate. My current plate (no tape) has about 1200 hours on it (the first 500 was using the acrylic plate) |
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Please keep in mind that different tapes and coatings work better for different filaments. Acetone/abs mix or kapton tape for ABS, Blue tape for PLA.
(Disclaimer, below are my experiences on my 8020 frame printer) For those tearing the tape, I have found that the bed needs to be perfectly level, and the 'z' axis must be checked after warming up, so the extruder tip does not drag or 'air print' With ABS, piece of glass on heated bed with Kapton tape, I let it warm up, adjusted so z=0 I can slip a scrap of copy paper between the tip and bed. Used like a feeler gauge, slight drag on paper when pulling it out. If it's been a while or a new setup, do it in the four corners. This leaves a nice 'squish' for the first layer, and typically sticks well. Eric, with hair spray are you printing ABS or PLA? Glass on bed or not? |
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I used to rip the tape when trying to remove the part (using a sharp item), not when printing. Even if the part was removable without tools by hand, the tape would sometimes still stick to the part and rip. Part came out fine but the tape was no longer usable. Don't get me wrong -- I'm not trying to be "anti-tape" or saying its the wrong way, nor do I own stock in a hair spray company. I'm just sharing my experience so others don't waste money, or maybe I can learn different ways to improve my rate of success as well. |
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Thanks for the feedback here on the printers, procedures and suggestions.
Good information to have and refer back to. We get our new printer in on Monday and then on top of that, they are giving teams 300 credits back since they did not sell of them. |
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We have a ton of blue painters tape (rolls and rolls) so its not a big deal for us, even if we have to apply it each print. |
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Bit of a late post, and I'm not sure how well it would work with other printers but...
Our team purchased the Replicator 2X over the summer last year. We've been having issues getting our prints to stick as well, and it was getting pretty frustrating. One of our alumni suggested taking some of the ABS, and dissolving it in acetone until its saturated. Let some of the acetone evaporate, and then "paint" a thin layer of the solution onto the kapton tape on your build table. We haven't had a part pull up as far as i know. Just reapply after every 5-10 large prints. You'll have plenty of the acetone/ABS mixture left over. I don't know if this transfers over to other printers/build plates as well. I know PLA doesn't really dissolve in Acetone very well either. I'm sure there is an alternative for PLA though. |
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With our Replicator 2 (PLA) we were having difficulty with a consistent "stick" and also with removing the raft completely from the printed part. I started using the Aqua Net hair spray, and it works perfectly for the stick...Then I started printing with no raft and the parts were sticking too well...I discovered something very interesting yesterday when I was in a hurry to get home and couldn't get the parts quickly off the platform. I took the parts, platform and all with me on my short walk home, and as soon as they got out into the cold air they dislodged themselves. Obviously different coefficients of thermal expansion so the drastic cool down broke the parts free without any work. Now I need a mini-fridge for summer printing.
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However, I have been experimenting with acetone "glossing" -- vaporizing acetone around a part to make it shiny. The results are interesting! PLA will absorb the acetone vapor and it does blend the layers nicely, for a nice shiny finish. |
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