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Ratchet Switch under load
Our team is trying to use a ratchet to release stretched surgical tubing (like I imagine a lot of teams are doing). We pull back our shooter using a winch and then shift into neutral so our motor shaft is no longer connected to the winch shaft. As the winch tries to unwind the ratchet holds it in place (ratchet acts as a hard stop).
The problem that we have however, is that nothing we have tried has been able to flip the ratchet's directional switch while it is under load. I have seen a couple other teams using this idea and so I am a bit confused as how they released the surgical tubing. So to you other teams we are successfully releasing surgical tubing, how are you doing it under load? |
Re: Ratchet Switch under load
Some teams are putting the ratchet on the motor side of the clutch, instead of on the load side. |
Re: Ratchet Switch under load
In our setup (and if I am correct, most of the other team's winch setups), the direction of the ratchet never changes. The ratchet only stops the gearbox from backdriving when it is under load. What releases the dog gear is a pneumatic cylinder- in our case, we have a hefty cylinder of somewhere in the 1.5 inch diameter range, on a lever around 14 inches long to multiply the force. This is way overkill, but it works flawlessly, and we can engage and release the gearbox by hand if we need to.
If my description was hard to understand, check out the Andymark robot in 3 days team's videos on how they did their winch system. We aren't using the same shooter design as they are, but our retraction and release systems are quite similar. |
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http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=125123 Hope all the comments here help you out. |
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Ah, I see where I misunderstanding the other designs now, it is as Ether said.
We were trying to be clever and remove the need for shifting into a neutral gear back attaching the ratchet to the motor shaft and using a worm drive in our winch. That way the ratchet would wind up the winch and the worm drive would give us our hard stop. Then to fire we only have to switch the ratchet's clutch and it would easily unwind. Unless we can find a ratchet that is very easy to actuate under load though . . . then it looks like we will need a transmission. Unfortunately all the Vex and AM transmissions are out of stock right now! Hopefully we can find something similar soon. |
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It is incredibly simply. The only problem is finding a ratchet that can switch under load. |
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To be honest, I can't think of a single ratchet that will switch easily under load. What I might do in your case would be a small 3-gear setup, where one gear is on the motor shaft (through the ratchet, though if you've still got the worm gear that won't be needed), one gear is on the winch shaft, and one gear is on an arm that drops in to connect the other two--a pneumatically-powered arm, if possible. Pull the arm out to unlock the gearbox. I've seen something like that work in LEGO before... You'd want to have the stroke to put the gear back in be slow, possibly at really low pressure, with the motor turning slowly, though. |
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Having a ratchet device machined might be the only solution, but we are looking into industrial grade ones that might shift easier under load. Money is a bit of an issue, but I imagine any ratchet we found would be cheaper than a transmission. |
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Have you tried reversing the motor while you release the ratchet? This may work depending on how quick your winch is.
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I also don't understand why reversing the motor would be illegal.
If you have the power to pull your winch, simply pull it slightly more (in the direction used to store power in your launcher), hold it there while releasing your pawl or switching the ratchet clutch. Then release the motor. |
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As in no motors that are legal to use in FRC are capable of this. Because of how slow we need to gear our motor to be able to pull back with 100+ lb. of force, that same motor will not be able to unwind at the very high speed of our shooter. We have not calculated this, but empirical evidence seems to confirm it. I would be surprised if there are FRC motors that wouldn't slow the rate of your shot if you left it mechanically connected to the winch system. |
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If you know of another way to remove the drag from the system though, that would be great. |
It sounds to me like they are using the motor/gearbox to turn the ratchet itself. I.e, taking the place of your hand if you were to use it as a hand tool.
And then using the lever to disconnect the motor/gearbox from the winch. The ratchet is acting as both the ratchet/pawl and the "shift into neutral" options. To relieve the load on the lever, you simply need to drive the motor slightly forward, then actuate the clutch lever on the ratchet while releasing the motor. It will relieve any load the ratchet is holding momentarily (long enough to flip the switch) while changing directions/freespinning back the partial tooth distance. To ensure disengagement, power on whatever you're using to flip the switch, then pulse the winch motor several times at 5-10 hz, full power, for a couple milliseconds each time. So effectively a very slow pwm at low power. It should sound like the motor/gearbox is clicking. You may have to play with your on vs off times and frequency to get it to work every time. |
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What it does buy you is the ability to move the disengage to a different portion of the system while the ratchet is taking load, meaning less force is required to pull a dog or whatever you're using (then fire with the ratchet). This is two actuations for the same thing, but could be the right choice for some teams. |
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Honestly though, that just shifts the problem of releasing under load to whatever is taking the load while you reverse your motor. So many the real questions should be "what will hold and release the tubing effectively". And for that I think some kind of simple pneumatic hook would do the job best. |
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We made a video of how our ratcheting, shift to neutral gearbox works. What was not describe in this video is the mechanism that disengages the dog gear. This was accomplished by a 1.5" bore, 6" stroke cylinder on a 12" lever arm. The dog is re-engaged by the internal spring.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xx3I2...u8SDSA&index=5 I'm not sure if this video will be helpful but it may depict what others were describing. |
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If you do, perhaps pushing a high friction material into the winch spool, acting like a disc brake would provide sufficient relief without necessarily holding the entire load with another device. |
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