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Be aware of battery and charger inconsistencies!
Anyone who has sufficient FRC experience knows that batteries are paramount to a robot's functionality. It can cause major problems if not properly taken care of. A loss of speed, general degradation of performance, and worst case is missing a goal and losing out on those points! We rather interestingly ran into this situation this year and actually found a good fix. We have noticed these symptoms in previous years but never really thought too much of it.
Short background story: The issue arose when every time we did a battery swap the robot's performance seems to be altered. sometimes the balls would shoot higher, sometimes lower, the robot had a noticeable speed difference, and we couldn't figure out what in the world was going on. We had all good chargers and good batteries from last year. After some investigation we had concluded that our issue was the batteries! not just the batteries but the chargers as well!. The most typical problem is the connector coming lose but that wasn't the case for us. What I had noticed is that anytime a battery came off a specific charger it seemed to have much better performance. We had two of these chargers but the other one didn't perform as well. We also had two other newer style but those also didn't perform as well. Now you might be thinking they are defective, but i assure you they arn't they are all 100% fully functional. Technical details: -Battery age matters, avoid using batteries more than a year old -connections matter -chargers matter! just because you have two identical ones doesn't mean they will behave the same. we had 5 chargers and each one had charged the battery to a different voltage ranging from 12.8-13.3 -battery charge, you need to have enough batteries and chargers to keep your robot alive during competition! These batteries take a short while to discharge and long time to recharge so don't think 5 minutes on a charger and it will be good to go. Not only do you want a charged battery, but you want a FULLY charged battery to an optimal level. Solution: -Upon the recommendation of another team(sorry forgot which) we currently use: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-BC1509...tanley+charger (there are other types as well with higher current or other brands this is just one particular example i can vouch for) for all our battery needs and are very happy with them so far. The key aspect is consistency. We have 3 of these chargers now and they will charge the batteries to the same point every time on every charger so we have resolved all of our battery inconsistency issues. TLDR: get good chargers,test what your current ones do |
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I'm sorry but that charger is illegal to use and will degrade battery life. The max recommended charging amperage of the FRC legal batteries is ~6 amps. Charging at a higher rate can cause overheating and over time damage to the battery.
That charger is intended to be used with an automotive sized battery not a FRC legal sized battery. It says that it "automatically" selects the charge rate but that is misleading. The battery is what sets the charge rate based on its voltage. Since the charger "thinks" that it is connected to a much larger battery it will charge at too high of a rate. The reason you are seeing different voltages when you disconnect the charger is caused by a couple of factors. One is the state of charge when the battery is connected. That will set the charge voltage and rate. The other is the phenomenon known as a surface charge where you are seeing a little residual voltage on the surface of the plates. To test the batteries voltage you need to either let is sit for a number of hours, which is preferred, or remove the surface charge by connecting a light load to it for a couple of minutes. The max voltage of a fully charged lead acid battery that has had its surface charge removed or allowed to "soak" in is 12.77 volts. |
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In addition, you should be testing your batteries before the competition season with something like this device:
http://www.westmountainradio.com/pro...oducts_id=cba4 We have easily found a half dozen batteries that looked 'good' but suddenly lost charge a number of amp hours into testing, proving they were actually bad over the past 5 years. |
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we tried looking into the rules about which chargers are legal and we couldn't find any restrictions. We don't use batteries over a year old anyway so in regards to degrading them it's not really a concern. Can you point out where you see this restriction on chargers? It's not even a 1C charge rate.... The point about the voltages and chargers is that the same battery will have a different voltage from each different charger... this shouldn't be the case and from what we noticed it makes a big enough difference to effect robot performance to a rather noticeable and enough of a degree to make us miss shots and slow the robot down |
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Regardless of legality Al has a very considered opinion of not going over a 6 amp charge rate. |
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OP, the batteries can last for years, so I don't recommend the one-year limitation on inventory. We are currently using batteries that range from 1-5 years old. It is important to not fully discharge the batteries and keep them charged throughout the year to extend life. For in-competition and general use, we use a Battery Beak to check the charge state. We also want to pick up the West Mountain Radio tester. |
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I still think mechanisms should be limited by a control loop and not the state of your battery whenever possible. |
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The maximum charging current for FRC batteries is 5.4A per the spec sheet.
Charging batteries at a current lower than the maximum (i.e. 2A) will improve battery life. Charging at a higher current will speed up the time it takes to fully charge a battery. |
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I am sorry to disagree with those that state there is no rule about chargers. It is found in the safety manual and as LRI's we have been told to enforce it. The highlight is mine but a direct quote. From the safety manual:
"Charging and Handling Keep the battery-charging area clean and orderly. Place your battery charger in an area where cooling air can freely circulate around the charger. Battery chargers can fail without proper ventilation. Do not short out the battery terminals. If metal tools/parts contact the terminals simultaneously, it will create a direct short circuit. This may cause high heat to develop in the battery terminal/part/tool area and the battery could explode. If a quick disconnect is not available and you must use tools to disconnect the battery, make sure metal tools don’t contact both terminals at the same time. Do not charge battery at greater than the manufacturer’s maximum recommended rate." |
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You can argue however much you want about how it isn't really a rule, but when the LRI tells you that it's not allowed to be used on your robot batteries, you aren't going to win. :rolleyes:
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The safety rules are rules, and you will be told to follow them. |
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From some online documentation it shows that batteries can be charged faster than manufacturer's recommended rate but it shortens their lifespan, which is fine. Also from numerous places people are charging all kinds of batteries with these, including FRC batteries. It's a general purpose 12V lead acid battery charger, we are using fairly generic 12V lead acid batteries. Even so we can easily adhere to the rules by bulk charging on old 6A then cycling to these for the top off |
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Adhering to the rules would mean to use (and only use) LEGAL chargers at ALL times, while at the event. This would mean that the batteries never see the charger you are suggesting. Save yourself the headache and space by leaving the charger at home when you compete. |
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Also leaving them at home is not an option. Our older chargers are not acceptable for robot performance. Each one charges the battery differently which is a major problem for us. I'll post on the QA and look for an official response but regardless I believe we can easily adhere to the rules to there shouldn't be any problems. |
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http://batterytender.com/resources/battery-basics.htm/ |
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The automotive chargers use charge currents that are appropriate for automotive batteries and they change charge currents and transfer to trickle charge mode based on the battery voltage. Since the voltage at full charge is related the same for all the 12 V (nominal) batteries, irrespective of their Ahr rating, the automotive chargers are able to properly charge all automotive batteries no matter what their actual Ahr rating is. Each week, where I work, we literally use tons of batteries just like the ones used in FRC (different Ahr rating) to build large Interruptible Power Supplies for industrial applications and data centers. These are sourced from one of the FRC legal suppliers. We CALCULATE our charging current based on the size and number of batteries in a battery bank and recommendations from the battery manufacturer. Neither we, nor any competitor that I know of, has the technology that would allow a charger to distinguish between batteries of different sizes and what charge rates are appropriate for that battery. |
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If so, you could multiply the RCM by (25/60) to get an Ahr rating (at 25 amps down to 10.5V). For many automotive batteries, the RCM rating is available. |
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So to answer this another way, and avoid illegal chargers: what is it about this charger that is apparently improving the OP's robot performance? Is there a process to follow with the "standard" chargers that should achieve the same result, but safely?
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Also, 6A is pushing it for these batteries. You should charge your batteries at the lowest charging rate you can get away with to maximize the lifespan of the batteries. The only thing charging at a higher rate gives you is less time to charge. |
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The Ahr rating will increase if measured with a lower current. So be careful when comparing FRC Ahr to automotive Ahr computed from RCM*(25/60). I eyeballed some data from the discharge curves in NP-18-12 datasheet and plotted the actual Ahr of that FRC-legal battery vs discharge current. At the RCM 25 amp rate, the FRC battery appears to be less than 7Ahr, which would correspond to an RCM of about 17 minutes. |
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And before you ask: no, I haven't seen either of these personally. However, I do trust Big Al, who has seen them & told his inspectors at Central IL (one of which was me) about it when he told us to look for >6A chargers. I'll repeat what someone else said earlier: if it comes down to a disagreement on this -- regardless of the evidence you present -- between your team and the LRI, you're not going to win. Unless you have a Q&A answer that states your chargers are legal. When you craft your question, you should be specific about the charger you would like to use. |
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Thought I might ask here,
We are currently using the Schumacher SSC-1000a 2/6/10amp charger. It does support motorcycle/tractor/jetski batteries, which the FRC battery seems to resemble. The amount of charge has to be selected after the battery is attached. We only use the 6a mode during competition and the 2a mode for overnight trickle charge / maintenance. We are going to order a few more to bring to our regional competition. Is this charger NOT going to be allowed? Here is a link to the charger information. http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SSC-1000A-SpeedCharge-Battery-Maintainer/dp/B0009IBJE4/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1394141261&sr= 1-3&keywords=schumacher+sc1000a Aloha, Mr. H |
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What I was asking was how long does it take to get to that certain point, and what is the current while it is getting to that certain point. |
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However, If event staff or officials feel that a hazard exists, they'll refer it to the regional director, who can determine the extent of the team's continued participation in the event, based on the hazard present and efforts to resolve it. In terms of the competition, noncompliance with the safety manual carries no specific penalty, and certainly none related to passing or failing inspection or playing the game. But, if charging the battery in a particular way has rendered a battery unsafe, the inspectors and referees will prohibit the use of that battery in competition. |
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However, we don't take the teams' word for a number of things. That's why spec sheets for non-standard parts are required, for example. Ask in the Q&A; maybe non-standard battery chargers fall into that category. Quote:
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We're using the KOP chargers. (With anderson outlets of course) Haven't had too many issues with these. We do a 2 amp charge overnight (Treat your batteries right when you can!) and a 6 amp charge during competition time to boost the charge speed, and to 'top off' batteries. (I've noticed that a 2 amp charge leaves about 12.6 volts in the battery, whereas a 6 amp charge gets us to 13.1, even with two year old batteries. Our robots haven't been big power drawers until this year, though.)
Higher voltage (as long as it isn't surface voltage) is always better. Duh. It means less voltage dipping through the match, etc. But if you're experiencing inconsistent performance based on battery voltage, You have a bad design. You will experience voltage drop throughout the match, during movement, so basically, if your performance is hinging upon a perfectly (not fully) charged battery, you really need to rethink how you've built something. (Though this late in the season... what can you do? Maybe use the battery reading in your programming to do something like an open-loop control, or you can slap on a sensor to do closed-loop control.) (This is my #1 concern with all these motor-powered catapults this year...) |
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Choosing your battery charger to give you a consistent state of charge is one way of dealing with the battery variations. As Toa states, a more robust solution would involve making your robots performance insensitive to the variations in your battery's state of charge or output voltage. FIRST has already provided us with an example; the regulated 12V output of the PDB. Learning to devise strategies that are independent of variables such as your battery voltage is part of the STEM education you should be getting from participating in this program. |
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it's easy to say stuff like this, but in reality it's almost never the case. Having a feedback loop requires you to have overhead in power, which i don't think many if any robots actually have. Not sure how much you have worked with control loops but it's pretty much never perfect. We have tried it, and concluded it was a waste of time for our needs. It was simplest and best to just slam it full power, but as you stated this relies on battery state. Our main issue is our kicker. it's less about being 100% full and more about having a consistent charge so it shoots the same every battery swap we do. with a good battery off these chargers we can accurately and consistently shoot it from the white zone for autonomous, this isn't the case with our old chargers. Sure you're right it's not an optimal design but we don't have a bunch of control system engineers at our disposal and it's hard enough making a robot work to bag much less something this advanced. |
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Thus if you divide RCM by 60 you will get the number of hours it takes, under those test conditions. If you multiply that number of hours by 25 amps you will get the Ahr rating of the battery, under those test conditions. That's where the (25/60) number came from. You will get a higher Ahr number if you run a test with a lower test current. To compare the capacity of an FRC battery to an automotive battery, you have to compare apples to apples. That means running the same test conditions on each battery. Discharge curves for the NP-18-12 are available in the datasheet. From these curves you can get a rough estimate of the FRC battery RCM rating. It's very roughly 17 minutes. That number can be compared to the RCM of an auto battery to get a rough idea of the relative capacity of the two. |
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Also it's impossible for these chargers to charge the batteries to illegal voltages. As i have stated over and over, it's not about the current, it's not about the voltage, it's about the CONSISTENCY. the batteries are only at 13.5V when freshly pulled off the charger. They can't overcharge the batteries. and we will use them in a way which is within ALL rules anyway. I really don't think most people in this thread have any idea how batteries and chargers actually work. As someone else stated it's like saying a Ferrari is dangerous and shouldn't be allowed to be driven on the street just because it can easily break the speed limit even though when properly used it will fall within all laws(rules) |
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Sanelss, if a cop pulls you over for going 65 in a 45 zone, are you going to protest that the speed limit is too low, and needs to be raised, and besides, you aren't speeding?
If your answer is no, then I suggest that you just got pulled over and protested on BOTH points. I highly recommend that you take the first step you should take when you find yourself in a hole: stop digging. By now, I would guess that half the inspectors in your event(s) have figured out which is the first pit to check for chargers that are illegal, and will be busy tipping off the other half on the first day of said event(s). If your answer is yes, then I suggest reconsidering that mode of operation. I could be even more blunt, but in order to save as much face as possible for all concerned, I will refrain from going that route. |
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Edit: Also, just though of something that could remove the chance of argument and burden of proof with inspectors, if you would to wire the chargers to the batteries with a 6amp slow blow fuse, wouldn't that be enough to show that the batteries are not being charged above the recommend rate? |
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Let me make something clear to y'all. The rule is the rule is the rule is the rule. Because it is a rule, it is enforced, regardless of how dumb, idiotic, or moronic it may seem. If you violate the rule, and you get caught, you can expect the penalty. Again, regardless of how dumb it seems. (It's not like I have prior experience with seeing this happen or anything, I've only seen this general class of rule or ruling an average of once per year from a certain group of people...) |
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Using the same example, you would be going at 45 with a car that only goes 45 for most of the trip, then switching to a car that is going 5mph but can go 65 for the rest of the trip. Legally that would satisfy all of the rules. The issue seems to come from "what if the other charger goes higher then 6 amps, for whatever reason, even though it shouldn't" which is where I would recommend fusing the charger with a 6 amp slow blow fuse, to enforce a limit. So it CAN NOT charge at a rate more then 6 amps and makes inspectors happy. |
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But consider this: they are getting a competitive advantage out of it. Imagine that you're in a (distance) race, and most cars go 55 (most efficient speed, for a car) the whole way until they run out of fuel. But this one car goes 55 until it runs out of fuel... and pulls out a 1-gallon gas can, dumps it in their tank, and drives another 30 or so miles beyond the rest of 'em--because they pulled out that extra gas can--which may or may not be legal (we haven't clarified that yet, because SOMEONE hasn't asked Q&A!).
Again, the rule will be enforced. No amount of whining and complaining about how your entire design revolves around this particular setup will change that. (BTW, that's how this thread struck me last night--a bunch of whining and complaining and "I'm not doing anything wrong, see this other example" from some folks.) One thing about that slow blow fuse: You'd have to show that you did that particular modification safely. Otherwise, the charger would be sent out of the pit not under being a potentially illegal charger, but under being a safety hazard. |
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Can a team buy several of every legal battery, load test them, find the best model. Then buy 50 - 100 of that model and test them all so they only use the best 10? Is that an advantage? Yes. Is it legal? Yes. Quote:
Also, do you change the output leads on battery chargers? I know must teams do, and I don't see how adding a fuse is much more unsafe. Also I will point you to teams using custom made cases for their chargers. |
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Since this seems to be getting to the point where all the arguments are becoming circular, it would be nice if someone asked the Q&A and closed this thread (or just close the thread, OP can make a new one when he gets an answer from Q&A). |
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you guys can be as blent and uptight about it as you want, but it states very clearly what the rules are and i stated very clearly of how we will abide by them. It makes no difference to me if others do or don't like it or if some inspector thinks there is a problem with it when there isn't...NO RULES ARE BEING BROKEN, WE ARE NOT USING ILLEGAL CHARGERS. is that blunt enough? The inspector guy said we can't use them, but there is not a single rule against what types of chargers, only charge current limits. I will post in the Q&A when I can but I don't have the team login to do so at this moment. |
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The other factor here is the charger type. It's been brought up before--but charging this type of battery with a charger meant for car batteries (these are motorcycle batteries) could present a safety risk--and a safety risk that can be avoided is TO be avoided, especially in the pits. I remind you that if the lead robot inspector rules that you're charging your batteries with a charger deemed illegal, then they can refuse to pass you at inspection. No pass, no play. No play, no rankings, no standings, no Saturday afternoon play. All because someone didn't know the difference between being stubborn and being obstinate. It's happened before, though under clearer circumstances. Incidentally, I can think of a quicker, though obviously not official method. I'll see if I can get a particular person to weigh in--an electronics guy who happens to have an awful lot of clout in what actually gets inspected. |
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I also don't see how a robot inspector can deem something illegal when he has no rules to base it off of and how the equipment you use can prevent a robot's inspection. The tools you use to maintain a robot have nothing to do with robot inspection requirements. He may state something is unnecessarily unsafe and needs to be addressed but he can't just outright deem something illegal of his own will when we can prove the opposite. Or maybe they have some secret powers i'm not aware of. I know i'm being stubborn, both because our season depends on it and because i honestly don't think we're in the wrong. If it wasn't such a critical thing I would just let it go but it's not something we can just let go without having a dramatic and devastating effect on us. It's either we can use these for trickle which is within all rules, or we can't do 3 ball autonomous and we will probably miss most shots because of battery inconsistencies. So our two options are find a way to use these, or give up hope on doing well this season since we know full well we can't perform if we can't use something better than our old chargers. I don't think i'm doing anything different than anyone else would. I'll post for an official answer the soonest opportunity I have I just haven't had that opportunity yet. |
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There's a reason the field sizes are given with a tolerance--expect variations to happen. One thing a number of longtime veterans have learned is that the specs given are not necessarily totally exact. Case in point, the balls have been noted to behave differently at competition than at a lot of team facilities, for reasons unknown. Maybe you don't quite need full power to shoot as far as you want to--but you won't know that for sure until practice matches. Quote:
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I would strongly advise not going against the LRI. You won't win. Not just anyone can be a Robot Inspector, especially a Lead Inspector. LRI's, especially Big Al, who is the Lead Inspector of Lead Inspectors, have been in FRC for a long time and know what they're talking about. Quote:
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The safety manual (quoted by others in this thread) limits many of your examples. Of course there will always be safety risks but some risks can be eliminated. Let me make a constructive suggestion - why not drive forward a couple feet then shoot? It solves all your problems. You can't do a 2-ball autonomous anyways if one kick sucks the top end out of your battery. Take a deep breath, solve the problem without risking the inspector's ire and good luck to you and your team! |
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You are talking about exposing your team to a huge risk. I can't caution you enough. Good luck! |
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I don't see how any unsafe behavior can occur in that time. And on another note, how many people have checked to see how many amps their chargers put out? Manufacturing tolerances do exist, and that 6 amp charger (which is already 'breaking' the rules) may put out slightly more. If this enforcement of the rule was following the rules wording properly all chargers that have a 6 amp setting should not be allowed as they will go above the max charging current of 5.4 amps. |
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Do yourself and your team a favor and leave those chargers at home. If the robot's performance depends on an absolutely fully charged battery then invest in some high quality chargers that will pass the scrutiny of the LRI.
You keep saying that your season depends on using these chargers. As an LRI I say your season is in jeopardy due to bringing these chargers in the door. Putting a fuse inline will not help matters. Using these chargers to "top off" the battery won't work unless you have either given them time for the surface charge to dissipate or you put a load on them to remove the surface charge. Option one means wait several hours minimum to charge and putting enough load on it to remove the surface charge quickly and consistently means that the starting charge rate of the charger will likely blow the fuse. |
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