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You could do something like 192 did with their gearbox to keep the finger hazard lower. However, that would imply that you have enough meat on the gearbox side plates to drill and tap a hole to bolt on some thin sheet aluminum to cover the exposed gears.

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I could do that, it is all 1/4 plate alum. Thank you

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Will you be posting a .step of this? Could be easier to give feedback that way.

One thing I notice about the design is that it appears that it would require you to take the entire thing apart just to replace the motors. Maybe something to think about in future revisions.

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hahaha i like your picture

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Here is the STEP file :D

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7j...it?usp=sharing

Thank you for your interest and help

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If the plates are getting milled (As opposed to waterjet or laser cut), you could also leave 1/16" or so of metal in the bottom of all the pockets. It won't weigh much, but will keep fingers out.

Totally awesome design by the way. I have a feeling my FTC team will be making something similar for next year.

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Awesome gearbox so far!

I just opened up the step file. Your construction technique is similar to 192's gearbox from 2012, but you currently don't have any hard connections. If you look at theirs (though I'm no expert on it, I've just seen pictures) they still have some bolted connections. While it looks like you're going for a press fit, having some hard connections would be wise. Reliability and durability is key on gearboxes, especially your drive. The last thing you want is one of those plates falling off.

Also, as far as condensing it goes, you could cut down the shafts on the CIMs, which would allow you to pull everything in some more.

One last thing, as far as face-mounting goes, the sides extend some distance past the front. It's not a big deal, but it may annoy you a bit if you want to face-mount these.

Other than that, great work. Can't wait to see where this goes!

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Sadly this will be water jetted so that is not an option I will probably put some black tinted Polycarbonate riveted to the box to keep fingers out while still being able to see inside.

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You are completely right I forgot about the standoffs and bolted connections (duh) I really meant to add those just slipped my mind. I forgot to mention I messed with the gear ratios a bit and I am planning on adding a third to put the ratio back where it was on the ball shiftier normally.

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Is it possible to put both motors on one side so that you can reduce the overall width? Make one motor horiz and the other under it on an angle - same site.:cool:

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If you feel like driving 450 miles to SVR next week I can try to have a 2012 gear box there. Let me know by Monday and I will arrange it. This years is even nicer.

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I don't know if OP will be coming, but I'd sure love to see one of your 2012 gearboxes. It's one of the coolest gearboxes I've ever seen.

I've run into a myriad of different issues while attempting to design my own worm drive, so seeing how you guys were able to accomplish it would be amazing!

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Yeah seems like quite a distance but thank you for the offer. As for the issue with width I am willing for it to be that wide for the soul purpose that it is very easy to fit into a drive base. This will take up probably more space than the original Ball shifter gearbox but it is much less awkward.

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What's your source and spec on the bevel gears?

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I got them from here (http://www.qtcgears.com/KHK/newgears/KHK228_2.html) the CIM bevel gears are a bored out and key way broached "Pinion Shaft" as called on the website and the larger bevel gear is drilled out and broached to a 1/2" hex, so some modification will be needed but nothing beyond the range of a FIRST team with decent manufacturing capabilities.

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The plates on our 2012 drive gearbox were all press fit together, however we did have 2 bolts running through the gearbox to clamp it shut incase the presses ever came loose.

I’ll be bringing our 2012, 2013 and 2014 gearboxes to SVR :)

If you need any help with your worm drive gearbox I’m sure Joey Milia would love to help.

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That's so awesome! Thank you so much!
Can't wait to stop by 192's pit. :D

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Okay here comes V3, some of the bearing holes became overly sized for some reason and they will be an easy fix but I want to go to bed lol. I also need to add a 3:1 third stage to correct the ratios because as of right now they are way too high. It also now mounts to the KOP frame through 4 tapped holes on the face that line up with the toughbox mounting holes. Let me know what you think.

STEP: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7j...it?usp=sharing

Picture: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7j...it?usp=sharing

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V3 is looking good!

A few things though:
1. To make facemounting easier, I would go one of a few routes: Put the four bolts holding it together in through the back and tap the front plate (this would give you a flush, flat front) or I would use countersunk bolts on the front instead. The other option is to just have holes for the bolt heads to fit through on the spot you're mounting this. Generally, your mount will be a lot more snug and reliable if the face is right up against the surface you are mounting it to.

2. You probably already know this, but just to remind you, you're going to need another spot for a bearing on the front plate if you intend to add a third stage.

This is a beautiful, elegant gear box. Awesome job on it!

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I agree with what you're saying. this is an awesome gearbox, but it would take up a lot of space.

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Yeah I did not think about the bolt heads getting the the way I will have to go and fix it but the I add the third stage I will have to face mount to thag any way. The reason I have yet to add the third stage and another bearing because I am not 100% sure how to do it but I will figure it out :D. As for saving space I am making this box with the intention of making it easy to tuck away and less awkward so I could mount the motors closer together but I choose not too. Thanks for the feedback.

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If you need any help with the third stage, just let me know. I'd be more than glad to help.