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Offseason WCD with 3 CIM inverted transmission design
This is something I've been working on since last night - it's nowhere near done, but I figured it was presentable.
WCD (High res image here): -Dimensions: 28"L x 27"W -Transmission is a repackaged WCP shifter with calculated speeds of 6 and 17 ft/s with inversed CIMs (more on that below). -Weight is 39 lbs with everything featured. A little heavier than I'd like, but I haven't even begun lightening, so it has a lot of potential to be lighter. -2x1 is Versatubing, and the 1x1 is all 1/16" thickness. -6 4" diameter x 1.5" wide colsons with 1/8" center drop driven by 9mm HTD belts -Yes I forgot to put the cams in the model, though the holes for them are there. Inverted 3 CIM shifter (aka: The House): -WCP DS guts with a 2.92 spread. -Driven 42T gear is now outside the gearbox and cantilevered. -Power is transmitted from motors to 42T through cantilevered 50T idler gears (not shown in model: switching from live axle gears to bearing bore gears on a dead axle). -Entire module weighs 10 lbs -With current drop and positioning the bottom CIMs are 3/8" from the top of the 2x1 tubing, and do no extend past the halfway point on the tubing, so any size wheel can be used without interference. -Design opens up enough room in the bellypan for continuous electronics. As always, constructive criticism is always appreciated, and I'll be happy to answer any questions anyone has. |
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Have you thought about using belts for the first stage of gearing? Might save some weight.
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Cool concept, I think I see some overdefinition issues with some gears though. Depending on the angle between the idler gears, they might or might not interfere. |
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Weight?
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Interesting compromise with the inverted CIM design to allow different wheel sizes.
I only see two spacers at the bottom running between the gearbox plates. Are you sure that's stiff enough? |
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Re: Offseason WCD with 3 CIM inverted transmission design
I would highly recommend you do not cantaliever any gears. My second gearbox I designed, which we neglected to test this year under load and plopped right onto the WCD, had gear mating issues on the second stage gear because it was cantalievered.
Keep in mind this was with two bearings on it, one on the wheel block and one right next to the gear in the gearbox. The gear still had massive mating issues. Instead, try putting the cims offset by 1/2" or so to allow for the gears to be inside the gearbox and have bearings on them on both sides. On a side note, that's a pretty sweet gearbox. I like the way you are holding the cims with the gearbox. Seems to save a lot of space. Keep in mind those holes will need to be a bit larger than 2.536", the OD of the cim. |
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The only thing I'd worry about is the four gears (pinion, two idlers, and one more) that are engaged in a square. That center pinion might not fit in there. If it engages with one gear, the other gear may never line up. Unless you've designed for it, both gears that engage with the center pinion could always be slightly misaligned. A simple solution might be to replace one of the idler gears with the versa hub pattern with a smaller gear, so that the center pinion only engages with one gear. |
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Also in the second iteration the idler gears will be bearing bore gears on dead axle shafts that extend through both plates in the gearbox. |
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Hold on a second; was your shaft 6061, 7075, or steel? I've seen 6061 shafts bend with a longer lever arm, but with 7075 and a short lever arm like in his picture the gears will be fine (as long as he has the two bearings he mentioned above: one bearing is generally a bad idea) Also, I like the support you are giving the CIMS, but do you need the support from the sides? You could probably save some aluminum by just providing support from the bottom, if that makes sense. |
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Of course, just my opinion; the gear does look closer than the one on my gearbox did to the bearing. Remember to put some kind of protection over the gears like polycarbonate, else wires will get stuck in there, as well as fingers. It looks like there are two screws on the bottom of the gearbox that don't go all the way through the nut. Consider switching to thinner locknuts or lengthening the screw just in case. |
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The bearings had 1" between them at the closest measurement (2x1 WCD). There was also 2 sprockets between the bearing and the gear, so possibly that was the problem. We haven't checked the gearbox shafts, only the outer shafts. I guess the shaft could be bent, but it seems pretty unlikely to me as it has a huge marign of safety. The bearings were 1/2" hex bearings which seem to have a lot of wiggle room to me, and maybe that combined with the long distance to the gear let to engagement issues. |
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However, tagging along with Roger and Jared, really pay attention to the mesh on those 4 gears meshing in a loop. You'll have to make sure the tooth offsets given by the interior angles (with alternating sign) add up to a whole number around the loop, so you get the correct mesh all around. But even with that, a small tolerance on gear placement could mean that the driven gear is only contacting one idler at any given time, or even that you still get a gear collision. |
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Also, how are you planning to attach the bumper rail to its supports and the supports to the main frame?
The side supports will do just fine, though I would recommend adding a lip to them retain the bumper rail horizontally, reducing the load on any weld joint or bolt/gusset. For lack of a better picture, here's a screenshot of a Youtube video as an example :rolleyes: http://i.imgur.com/VhdqrmC.png. If you secure the front/back supports with gussets or brackets, I can tell you from experience that they will bend from a forward or backward impact (the brackets, that is, the tube will be just fine). Even welding, I would think you'd be risking breaking a weld. You can get creative with the geometry of that support piece so that in rotating backward it both compresses some geometry of its own and reacts against the top surface of your main frame. Edit: for example |
Re: Offseason WCD with 3 CIM inverted transmission design
Backing up a bit, why did you choose 6 CIMs over 4? For me, there is a very real cost to going with a 6 CIM drive, yet after two seasons of there being bots with 6 CIM drives, I do not see strong evidence that 6 CIMs has a large advantage over 4 CIM. The tradeoff is that you can't use the CIMs elsewhere, they add weight, and they greatly increases breaker tripping risks. We ran 4 CIMs this year after trying 6 last year, and were very pleased with our decision to do so (it would have been much much harder to build the robot we did if we had not done such).
Also, why belts in a WCD? My rough estimate is that you are saving less than 0.5lb by using belts over #25 chain, yet a WCD drive does not have a good answer of how to change a broken belt between elimination matches. If you are going to bet on the belts not breaking, I would recommend sizing up to the 15mm wide. We have broken belts on our robot (albeit most frequently on our practice robot and in the after season), and find that it is an important design priority to be able to quickly change belts. Our calculations have also shown that with 9mm wide GT2, we are a running the belts a good bit out of the belt's specs. |
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The belts were chosen out of lack of experience using 25 chain and sprockets in this kind of setup. Of course the pulleys can be changed out with sprockets if we really wanted to. I appreciate the advice, though! |
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