Re: Spike trouble with pneumatics, maybe dlink issue too?
 

We replaced the spike and PWM cable, nothing has changed. Could it be a power distribution board issue at this point?

Edit: We also replaced the pressure switch. Nothing.

Re: Spike trouble with pneumatics, maybe dlink issue too?
 

Have you tried changing the relay channel you are using?

Re: Spike trouble with pneumatics, maybe dlink issue too?
 

No, but we would then have to switch it in the code right? We aren't proficient with the code so we don't know how to switch values. (our coder left without explaining anything to us)

Unless someone sends us screenshots on how to switch values in code (if that's what needs to happen), we kind of hit a wall.

Re: Spike trouble with pneumatics, maybe dlink issue too?
 

Before you worry about changing code.
What you have seems to be working from a code perspective.

The Digital Sidecar Relay LED that's green means you should be able to read ~5v from the Relay pins there.

• Test the Relay output: Use a multimeter and measure the voltage on the Digital Sidecar from the Relay ground pin to each of the two signal pins.

If you get voltage then everything is fine and the problem isolates to be the PWM wire or the Spike.

• Test the PWM cable: Reconnect the PWM cable to the DSC Relay output and use the multimeter to measure for voltage at the far end of the PWM cable. Still should be ~5v

If you get voltage then the cable is fine and you've isolated the problem to be the Relay or how the PWM cable is plugged in to the Relay (could be backwards for instance).

Re: Spike trouble with pneumatics, maybe dlink issue too?
 

I've found that in cases such as the OP is describing, the culprit isn't the cable or the spike per se, or even if it's plugged in backwards. It appears that the female PWM port is extremely "deep" in that it's both recessed very far into the packaging of the Spike and that the actual electrical contacts appear to be really far into the female PWM port in the spike. This means in my experience that the electrical connection between the spike and the PWM cable is often really flaky.

We had most success (IIRC, it's been about a year) with older spikes and with PWM cables with extremely long male pins. The idea was that the long pins should make better contact with the deeper female PWM port, and it appeared to work.

I really wish that spikes would be updated to include a better PWM port all around. I've never had a problem with Talons or Vics or Jags, but Spikes seem to have all around problems. Perhaps the newest run of them have had the problem addressed, but if not, I'm really hoping Vex will take note and fix the problem.

Speaking if which, aren't we overdue for a Spike update, especially with the new Vics and Talons coming out? It'll be a huge drag if our spikes are bigger than our fancy, CAN enabled full on Talons. And the new form factor would solve a lot of the stuff that bugs me about spikes.

By the way, OP, don't assume that you're seeing what I saw automatically. (Or, for that matter, that what any random person on the internet wrote is true.) Go through the troubleshooting steps suggested in this thread first,if nothing else, they'll help you learn more about electrical troubleshooting.

Re: Spike trouble with pneumatics, maybe dlink issue too?
 

So I switched out the spikes multiple times, it started to work but not consistently. I ended up testing a spike from 2003 that does not have a recessed PWM port, and that has been working consistently. I think it was a problem with the male end of the PWM cable not fitting well with the newer spikes that have recessed ports.

Oh well, I guess I have to figure out a way to protect the spike so the PWM cable doesn't bend over and snap the leads.

Re: Spike trouble with pneumatics, maybe dlink issue too?
 

Little off-topic, but I don't feel bad since the topic's been answered...

I'm doubting you're going to see a new form factor Spike. At least no anywhere near the current price point. The Spike is cheap and small because it's dumb relay logic protected by a fuse. I haven't busted one open, but I'd be surprised if the board had more than 15 components or so on a 2 layer PCB. Electromechanical relays and fuses can only get so small, and don't benefit from the passive cooling tech of the new Vics/Talons. If you wanted to make it significantly smaller, you're talking about moving from relays to FETs, with gate drivers, etc. It'd be a little simpler if you kept the fuse for protection, though that'd increase the size of things. If you ditch the fuse, you're adding overload detection circuitry and logic for it, etc. At which point you basically have a lobotomized Victor SP, though with the option of manually controlling both sides of the H-bridge.