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Re: Electrical basics
I work in custom automation. The only time soldering to a crimp terminal is allowed is when crimping onto a solid wire such as a resistor. I do like the idea of teaching students how to solder and properly done I can see that soldering would not be a problem, I too believe that with the proper tooling it is not needed and not acceptable in manufacturing. I prefer to teach the students the techniques that are acceptable in manufacturing, and those will last just as long.
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Re: Electrical basics
For those who say soldering a crimp connector is not allowed. Is that a standard, company policy, or long standing practice? One reason I ask is you can buy Mil-Spec solder connectors. The ones I know of have a mechanical strain relief after the solder joint & no crimp so this really is not an apples to apples comparison.
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We use soldered mil spec connectors on military product at work. The connector backshell has mechanical strain relief to the cable though.
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http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...x?SKU=70011029 |
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Re: Electrical basics
Do you guys buy the 45 amp or 30 amp APP connectors? Also, what experience do you have with the 15 amp versions for smaller wire? We use 12 gauge wire for all motors so the 30 amp will be fine but was wondering if we should maybe buy the 45 amp ones in case we decided to go up to 10 gauge wire? how do the 45 amp connectors crimp to 12 gauge wire?
-Ronnie EDIT: Do you guys get the ones you can break apart or the ones fused together as one unit? |
Re: Electrical basics
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![]() We've used the 15A, 30A and 45A contacts on their respective gauges without a problem. The amperage ratings on the contacts are slightly misleading. All the contacts are rated to 45A, however it's recommended you only pass the listed currents through as that is what APP considers safe for those gauges. eg you can put 45A through the 15A contact, however it's unlikely that the cable it's attached to will survive. That being said, always use an appropriate gauge for each circuit, and sized such that it is legal for the rules. However, if you have 18AWG wire on a 20A circuit (legal per 2014 rules) don't worry too much about using the 15A contact, it's more important you match the contact to the wire gauge than the contact to the current. We also tend to buy the fused connectors. The vast majority of our cables only need the conventional red/black combination, it's easier than roll pins or glue, and the slight extra cost is negligible. However we do keep a few loose ones about for when they're needed. Finally I highly recommend getting the TRIcrimp tool for the PowerPoles, it's very easy to use and will crimp all three sizes (to the appropriate sized cable). They're available from Powerwerx and Andymark. |
Re: Electrical basics
We have found that the 30 amp contacts can be slightly spread open to make inserting #10 easy. They are slightly large for #12 but a little tight for the #10. WE also now stock the 45 amp which is fine for #10. We use the West Mountain Raido crimper which does all three sizes. I am not entirely happy about the job on the 45 amp though.
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Realize the battery plugs are "rated" for 50 amps & is on a 120 amp breaker. 6 gauge wire is rated for 101 amps for chassis wiring. But all these ratings are for continuous service. In FRC you are limited by battery size & match length.
Anyway back to the PP-45s. If you look on the data sheet, the rating comes from the UL rating based on 65 C or largest cable size. We are an edge case where peak current is much greater than average current. After heavy use, you can grab the connector without burning yourself, I wouldn't worry about it much. Build a panel that is going to be inspected by an UL inspector is a different subject. |
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