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Re: Electrical basics
Notice that between the different sizes, the actual contact area between two crimps is roughly the same. What's different is the size of wire they crimp onto, so the current rating is for the wire size, and isn't related to how much current the crimp itself can conduct.
So if a 30A crimp gets a good crimp on 10 or 12 gauge wire, it will certainly carry the current, since it has the same connection contact with another crimp as the 45A crimps do. |
Re: Electrical basics
I kinda answered this question already:
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And here's the information straight from PowerWerx: Quote:
That being said generally, these properties are simplified into rating tables, for FRC, it's ok to pass 40A through a 12AWG cable since the longest run that you might have is one or two meters, however the usual application for APP may involve runs up through ten meters in more hostile environments, hence the more conservative ratings. TLDR: Current ratings on the PPs don't mater, chose a wire that is appropriate for whatever current you are using, and then select the PP for that gauge. |
Re: Electrical basics
Tim,
The UL ratings are actually based on heat rise for specific currents under continuous duty. So if the contact rises above a certain temperature after having that current flowing for 24 hours or more, then it will receive a lower rating. We use the 30's because we have lot's of them. We purchased 45 last year to give them a try but don't really feel they are needed in our applications for two minute matches. |
Re: Electrical basics
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Re: Electrical basics
I am very intrigued to see the variety of ways teams work with their connectors. My question to the teams that solider and crimp is, what type of crimping tool do you use?
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Re: Electrical basics
Sorry I worded that question badly. I meant to ask whether or not their teams used ratcheting crimpers.
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Re: Electrical basics
Munch,
We use a ratcheting crimper and then solder. Our crimper is a West Mountain Radio tool but I am sure it was manufactured by someone else and just has their name on it. It may be a better tool than the one linked above as it has terminal retention to assist in holding the terminal prior to crimp. We use a very small amount of solder. We do not want to add to the rigidity of the connection but the solder does give us a little insurance and a slightly lower series resistance. |
Re: Electrical basics
To anneal to soft you need to heat copper alloys to 370C plus range. Most solder for electronics melt in 183-200C range. Unless you are way over heating your joint, I don't think you are annealing of the crimp.
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Re: Electrical basics
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As far as I know, which I'll admit isn't that far, most electrical-grade copper parts such as wire terminals are made from C11000 (aka 110 grade, ETP) copper. C11000 stress relieves at 180C, which as you point out is a 'minimum' soldering temperature. My understanding is that the residual stresses in a crimped connection are a significant part of what gives a crimp terminal it's good electrical and mechanical properties, and soldering heats up the joint enough to relieve those stresses. See the google book Copper and Copper Alloys, page 252, Table 4, for stress relieving temperatures for various copper alloys. |
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