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One speed vs Two speed gearboxes
My team is trying to decide whether we want to go with a two speed gearbox or one speed gearbox. For the last two years we have been running 2 speed gearboxes, this year our mentors are talking about possibly shifting(no pun intended) to a one speed. The main argument for the two speed is the flexibility it offers. The main argument against it is that they are expensive and they may not be worth the price. We are discussing this now among the team but I want some other perspectives on the issue.
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Other than the actual cost, shifting gearboxes require more space on the robot, more weight, and more air.
Team 135 used a two-speed shifter last year, and I think it paid off since our drivers knew when to shift for the optimal performance. If your drivers know when to go fast vs. slow, then two-speed should be used despite the additional costs. Otherwise, if you really want to save money and weight, then you can eliminate the shifter. |
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Other things you should consider:
- the game and strategy, what's it gonna be? - field layout and obstacles? - is your robot going to be primarily defensive or offensive? - if your primary design is offensive, will you be able to score points yourself or expecting minimal help from alliance partners? - if its defensive robot, will you be able to successfully defend, are your drivers ready to defend irrespective of match result? If your partners are not able to score would your be ok? - do teams in your region generally have a well designed offensive robots? We have been using shifters and its a challenge for our drive team to switch in to defense mode, its more of mental block and hesitation. |
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We too have gone between shifting and non-shifting gearboxes over the years. The major argument I'm enforcing this year for shifters is getting through defense. I've never played on such an open field before*, and man was it eye-opening.
In recent years it wasn't so much about pushing others around, but rather having a high "sprint" speed combined with a low, more controllable speed. 2013/2014 were more about beating defense to a point on the field rather than outright pushing them. To this end, we've considered gearboxes which have multiple gear ratio options by swapping out internal gearing. *I did mentor software for a small team in 2005/2006, but didn't go to an actual competition until 2007. |
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I generally see shifters as a good thing. Autoshifting code meanns that you can go 6 cim drive and have peak speeds of 18+ fps. You can get around defense.
Of course, if there's tons of obstacles, you could easily go to one speed and save some time and money. To save money, you might consider switching to an in-house shifter. |
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I believe you can be highly competitive going single speed. If you accelerate quickly and manuever well, you can slip by defenders. You can also easily get in the way of others with those same attributes. You can achieve high acceleration, good turning, and sufficient pushing power with a single speed drivetrain.
That isn't to say that shifting isn't useful, but I distinguish between useful and absolutely mission critical. If you would rather reallocate your limited resources to making the stuff on top of your drive base better (I believe this is probably more important), I don't believe that is a bad move. 846 did better single speed than any year we ran shifting. Your mileage might vary. |
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Big fan of two speed gearboxes and prefer to use the maximum differential ratio between high and low gears.
I value the ability to get the robot where you want it to be; either in a hurry or under duress. That is to say, I value the ability to either out run or out push an opponent to achieve the desired field position. I also value the ability to maintain a desired field position once achieved. |
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You can choose speed or pushing power, not both. A single speed drivetrain can't have both. |
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First and foremost, ask your drivers. How often did they shift in prior seasons? How useful did they feel it was?
Based on my experience with shifting drivetrains, I'd argue that for most teams it's really not worth the cost and effort. For teams looking to get from the 80th percentile up to the 90th and who finish with plenty of time for driver training, they could be worth it. For teams who are building up to the last minute or are in the middle of the pack currently, it's probably worth focusing your resources elsewhere (such as finishing earlier or your manipulator). Especially with COTS 6-CIM options and high traction wheels, single-speed drivetrains can execute most defensive and offensive strategies. Holding position is more a function of your mass, bumper design, and traction than the maximum torque you can transmit. Geared properly, single-speed drivetrains can often give all the accelration and velocity most drivers can handle accurately. A true "pushing match" is relatively rare. Simply getting in a position before the opposing team often suffices. If an offensive team has to bulldoze their way through your robot, you're playing great defense already. If you beat the defensive robot to your scoring position, it's better to invest the rest of your resources into a manipulator that can score quickly and reliably than building a drivetrain that can mask a poor manipulator. Finish early. A practiced driver on a single-speed will almost always best an inexperienced driver with a dual-speed. |
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I appreciate all the input and different POV.
Thank you |
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There have been many posts on this topic and there is no overlying correct choice. It all depends on your team.
If it is a problem with cash then, imo, I would go with a single speed drivetrain. They are not necessarily a bad thing due to them offering a mix of push power and speed all in the same gear. Also a SS gearbox will make your robot lighter meaning you can put weight towards other things. I truly believe both are perfectly good options and if you are struggling with other things it is best to take the cheaper not to mention easier of the two options so that you can put your time elsewhere. |
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It really depends on your strategy. That said, a reliable shifting gearbox will never hurt.
If you look at some very successful teams, you'll see that some teams like 254 have run two speed transmissions for over 10 years. On the other hand, team 118 didn't have a two speed gearbox in 2011, 2012, 2013, or 2014, and they were very successful. 118 has also put brakes on their gearbox in the recent past too. Quote:
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Generally you only need to utilize this in a pushing match, and the driver gets distracted. You could potentially also use collision detection, where the driver is pushing on the joystick but the robot is not moving. Then the program shifts down after a couple seconds. Shifting up is manual. There is a number of ways to accomplish autoshifting. |
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We also had a timer that did a 1 second lockout to prevent rapid repetitive shifting between 1st and 2nd gear when reading the values. |
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I'm unsure any teams are using current (as you technically could with the jaguars). Teams that autoshift now are primarily shifting based on encoder feedback, once they hit a certain rpm in low gear they shift up (for a full voltage output). Once they hit below a certain rpm in high gear (for full voltage output) they shift down. There is sometimes a timer on it to prevent gear hunting (rapid back and forth). Easy current monitoring will make the down/up shift easier next year. By checking rpm and assuming full voltage output, the above method was essentially shifting based on current. |
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Your reasons for holding a desired field position are your own. Your method had better have a lot of traction, though... Which is why you want a low gear. But getting to that position so that you can hold it may need a high gear. Depends on the game whether the low gear you need and the high gear you need are close enough to do it single-speed or far enough a part to use a shifter. |
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The initial current spike when beginning a pushing match (where you want to shift) looks the same as the initial current spike during acceleration. Autoshifting is really, tricky. There are so many instances where the robot can't possible know that shifting would be an issue at the current point in time. When you're turning, drifting to a stop, or grabbing a game piece, you don't want to shift. Yes, it's possible, but I think it may be more efficient for the driver to just remember where the shift button on the joystick is, and the coach can instruct the driver on what gear to be in (if the driver is too busy to make the decision himself.) |
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On heat checking: That's the best way to do it IMO, as I believe the breaker trips based on heat, but it also something that hasn't been done before. You would need to gen an IR gheat sensor and direct it at the breaker. |
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I don't think auto-shifting makes a lot of sense in the world of FRC. The "correct gear" to be in at any time is a function of two things:
1) What am I doing now? 2) What am I going to be doing in the near future? Only the driver knows #2. |
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Heck, some teams might not even install a pneumatic system if it weren't for two-speed drivetrains. |
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I agree with the posters that say you can't decide this until you've seen the game.
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I understand where you're coming from - I once had a similar mindset as well - luckily I had some good mentors knock some sense into me. We're fortunate to have some of the best mentors to learn from here in California - especially in the Silicon Valley. |
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In the context of Aerial Assist, I agree with this. I believe our speed on the field was a component of our success this season. All aboard the California powerhouse hype train. Next stop, Einstein 2015 ;) -Mike |
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I was watching one of the Behind The Lines videos which was on drive train design and they discussed modifying a 2-speed shifting gearbox to be one speed and when you shift, the motors run a different system on your robot. This is great for a game where you are either driving or doing another high load/speed task. For example, climbing in games like 2013 and 2010. Has anyone done this before? How effective was it?
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You could also modify a 2-speed gearbox to be a 3-speed, with the third speed being the PTO. |
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However, for games 2011-2014, fast robots are good. And to go fast and avoid trips (even accidental ones) you should really have a shifter. Now 2012 I could see going under 20fps. However, six cim drives make going under 18fps almost pointless if you don't have to worry about breaker trips. So you slap on a shifter. The game is not just speed, it's distance/time. The greater that ratio is, the more maneuverable a robot is (depending on the driver, of course). The primary downside of a shifter is space usage. Custom options are good for this. A team that needs to every inch of space on their robot for manipulators, etc. would need to go non-COTS. |
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As a counterexample, 254 has been shifting for about a decade now, and they have two championship wins. I would like somebody from 118's opinon on this. |
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I feel like what you've been saying about extremely high gears is true if and only if power management is not a concern. |
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My point is that with a shifter you don't need to worry about power managment, as long as you are either a) careful and shift or b) use encoders or other methods to automatically shift down in collisions. I prefer the latter method, as the first has much less use. |
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I think it's fair to argue for 95+% of teams the difference between a 16fps high gear and a 20+ fps high gear is not what will make them more competitive. Gearing that high requires a higher attention to detail mechanically, as well as a good supply of batteries. Many teams don't realise their batteries are in bad shape because their robots simply don't use that much juice. |
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Maybe I am reading too much into your words asid, but it seems to me that you believe that every robot would instantly just be better if a shifter were used instead of a single-speed. On a team with infinite resources, this might be the case, but on my team at least, we always have to make tradeoffs in our designs, and we will likely not be using a shifting gearbox next year so that we can focus on other aspects of our robot. |
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http://www.vexrobotics.com/vexpro/ge...llshifter.html |
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Case in point: Us last year. While our drive was a monster and for the most part dominated the field, our driver was, for our first competition, terrified to drive in high gear because of the high risk of blowing the breaker. It took him the full competition to really get the hang of obstacle avoidance and shifting for plowing. |
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Well, we already ordered everything, and it's not like we're any less off for that. WCP is still fine. We thought we were supposed to use the "gearbox bearing block" like on a WCP box. |
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http://www.buildblitz.com/final-cad-files/ The Copioli robot should show the setup with Ball Shifters + VersaBlock. |
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-Mike |
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We ran this speed last year and were keeping up gamewise with those geared faster. This could be because 2014 game play ended up being much further from an open field than it looked like, but I think another reason to not lose sight of is that once your robot is fast enough, it is more important how it is driven than what the exact speed. Our driver gets a lot of practice, and a fundamental of what we practice is how to accomplish whatever needed in the most efficient means possible. |
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This year, we had 6 Cims on our drive. During competition season, we were geared for 10.5 fps. With the wheels we had, this was traction limited, and we never got even close to popping breakers. But once we got to the highest level of competition at worlds, we were too slow to be competetive. We switched to 16FPS at IRI. The speeds with this actually allowed us to be competitive with the rest of the field. But in eliminations when our driver was playing rougher defense, we did pop breakers.
I would argue that with 6 Cims, the optimal points are about 10FPS for the low speed, and 16+fps for the high speed. With a 6 Cim drive, 10FPS will allow you to get around your half of the field basically as fast as possible, yet still allow you to not get in trouble with defense. Then if you need to cross the field, or the defender is faster then you, you can shift up to 16+fps and get across field very quickly. If the field is split like 2010 or 2012, I would argue that a single speed 6 Cim 10 fps robot is the best you can get, because there is not enough room to use any higher of speed. For years like 2011, 2013 and 2014, you want to be able to shift up for extra speed to cross the field quickly. Those are the types of years shifter are useful, because they allow cross field travel faster. |
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I would hesitate to use wins/losses as evidence to back up certain points, mainly because correlation is not causation. As a counterexample to your counterexample, 610 in 2013 was extremely competitive to the point that they took home the Championship. They also only used one speed - I recommend looking up their philosophy on that, I believe Mr. Lim and Mr. Rob Stehlik have some in-depth posts about it. Back to my point, personally while I thought they had a very good robot, I would not attribute the win to them having the single best robot on the field, but rather to 1241, 1477, and 610's capability to play as an alliance instead of playing as three teams. I still believe one choice is not inherently better than another, both have benefits and drawbacks, and it just depends on the game or team preference. |
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Our experience at work with using the NP7-12's in our UPS' is that applications that cycles the batteries more frequently and discharge them more deeply will shorten the life of the batteries, dramatically. There is also a line that states "When considering discharge currents exceeding 6C, consult with an EnerSys Application Engineer." Notes from manufacturers like this usually indicate that their experience is that such operating conditions are likely to permanently damage or shorten the life of the component. The 6C discharge rate corresponds to 103A which is easily exceeded in many of the recent drive train designs. www.enersys.com/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx?id=489 |
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I don't think they will consume the same eletrical power though. |
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When accelerating, the 6 cim will draw more power, but it will reach the constant velocity situation faster, when it will start drawing less current. |
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Thats only 900w. So less power is used by the 6 cim system to hold the same speed. |
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It's straightforward to do the calculation. Let's pick an operating point, say 2000 rpm at 240 ozin total torque of CIMs. Calculate the CIM operating condition at 2000 rpm and 60 ozin (for 4CIM drive), and 2000 rpm and 40 ozin (for 6CIM drive): Code:
Motor Calculator build MCALC_2014d 2/3/2014 1255pm6 CIM mechanical watts out = 6*59.2 = 355 watts 4 CIM amps total = 4*24.3 = 97.2 amps 6 CIM amps total = 6*16.5 = 99.0 amps 4 CIM electrical power in = 6.62*97.2 = 643 watts 6 CIM electrical power in = 5.92*99.0 = 586 watts So under certain operating conditions (in this case, 2000 rpm @ 355 watts out), 6 CIM draws less total power. |
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So we've been thinking about auto-shifting some more, and how to increase our efficiency. I've also heard that 1678 achieved speeds of 22 ft/s on the field and wondered how they did that, especially if they started in first gear then shifted or if they were in 2nd the entire time (assuming they used shifters). We were happy with our auto-shifting system last year and would like to improve it further. This led to a few questions:
How do we figure out the correct gearing for the low gear supposing we know we want to have a high gear of 17 ft/s? This needs to maximize acceleration as well as battery life. What exactly does it mean to be traction-limited and what are the physics equations and calculations surrounding that? We are planning on using either 4 CIMs, 4 CIMs and 2 MiniCIMs, or straight up 6 CIMs, so any advice on those configurations would help as well. I didn't want to start a new thread since there has been so much discussion on the topic, but since using auto-shifting as a method of avoiding blowing the main breaker was discussed here, I figured it was apt. We didn't have to worry about that last year since we only had 4 CIMs on the main drivetrain. |
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Because everybody posts free speeds, 22fps is still extremely fast, even if the actual is 17 or 18fps. A robot geared for 10fps may only reach 8. |
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However, I do know we did not auto shift. We just stuck it in high gear until we ran into so traffic, or the drive train was stalling (to prevent tripping the breaker). Remember kids, it's not about the speed of your drive train, it's how you use it ;) Merry Christmas! -Mike |
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With that being said, and as Michael mentioned above, you can get away without shifting from low gear to high gear even when gearing aggressively - if your driver / team knows what they're doing. If you get used to driving at speed, and or optimizing paths so that you're not changing directions a lot, you're minimizing the amount of time spent getting up to speed. As far as being "Traction Limited" is concerned - it's a function of you're drivetrains traction, relative to the "thrust" of the drive. Essentially if your drivetrain can produce enough torque (thrust) to spin the wheels before your breaker would trip, that'd mean you're traction limited. To calculate this, you need to first find the force of friction (Ff = Fn x CoF - is a good start) and then find the effective "Trust" (wheel torque) of the Drivetrain. (Input Torque x Gear Ratio / Wheel Radius - as a starting point) From there, you look at the current draw for that torque, and then compare that to the performance of your breakers. One of the biggest things to be aware of is the current per motor, and the number of motors in the system. In a 4 CIM drivetrain, designing to be traction limited usually means designing around the 40A breakers in the PDB, so that you're not drawing enough current to trip them - But in a 6 CIM drivetrain, it's better to design around the 120A main breaker, specifically not exceeding a total current draw of about 150% (180A) which works out to about 30A or so a motor - doing this ensures that you shouldn't ever (or at least rarely) trip the main breaker... |
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Do you have any guesses as to why this may be? |
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One of the first things that comes to mind when you wonder about the physics of accelerating a robot is inertia, but rotational inertia can become a big factor too in some designs. That's my best guess as to what it was, especially if you didn't have as much of a problem with it in other years. |
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Could electronics be an issue? Or is that a minor concern, efficient wiring? Thanks for the help! |
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For anybody interested, I compared the kinetic energy of the robot moving at 10 feet per second to the rotational energy of the wheels on a robot moving at 10 feet per second. If we compare these energies, we'll see how much of our power goes to spinning the wheels, and how much goes toward moving the robot. A fully loaded robot weighs 150 lbs, which is 68 kg. 10 feet per second is 3.05 meters per second. KE = 1/2*mv^2 = 0.5(68)(3.05)^2 = 316.285 Joules That's the amount of energy it takes to bring your robot up to speed. For the rotational energy, we've got to find the moment of inertia for the wheels. The radius of the wheel is 4", which is equal to 0.1016 meters, and I'll guess that the mass of the wheel is 2 pounds (probably heavier than the actual wheel), which is equal to 0.91 kg. The wheels are disc shaped, so we can use I = 1/2 * m *r^2 = 0.5(0.91)(.1016)(.1016) = 0.0046968 kg * m^2 One rotation of the wheel causes the robot to travel 8*pi inches = 25.1327 inches = 0.63872 meters/revolution. 3.05 meters/second (divided by) 0.63872 meters/revolution = 4.77517 rev/second = 30.00 radians/second For the rotational energy, E = 1/2 I*omega^2 = 0.5(0.0046968)(900) = 2.114 Joules per wheel. For six wheels, that's 12.684 Joules for a robot. tl;dr, it requires 328.969 Joules to bring your robot to 10 feet per second, and 12.684 of these Joules (3.8%) are used to get your wheels up to speed. This assumes that you have 6 colsons with a diameter of 8" and a mass of 2 pounds. The fact that the wheels spin when the robot moves makes the robot feel 5.7 pounds heavier to the drive system. |
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And those wheels are just under 2 pounds each. |
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As a general rule, we only run competition batteries for 2 years before retiring them to a non-competition use, such as a practice bot. |
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Also if you think that inefficient wiring is the issue try either: 1) wire the PDB, motor controllers and the motors as close together as possible. Short wire means less resistance. 2) If your components have to be spread out but you can affored a little extra weight try using a wire size bigger than FIRST requires for the motor wire. Doing this will decrease the wire resistance allowing for better energy transfer. 3) Finally, one of the best ways to get the most out of your motors is to be using the top of the line motor controllers. The Talons will be more efficient than say a Victor 884. While I wish I could offer more insight on to what happened to 624 in 2013 with their shifting, I believe that all that I could have said has already been spoken. So I leave you with these electrical tips that can help get the most out of your motors. |
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Do you have some test data you could share? |
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I don't have easy access to the data right due to the fact that I am on vacation. The place I reamber finding the data was here on CD as an attachment. Once I get more time I will look for the data again. |
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For example (using the motor rotor inertia figure given in another recent thread) if the 8" wheel 6WD robot in your example is driven using CIM motors with 14:1 speed reduction ratio between motors and wheels, each motor rotor will have a "reflected inertia" of J_rotor * (ratio^2) = 0.015 kg-m^2, or about three times the figure you used for one wheel. For a different example, consider a drivetrain with 4" wheels and half the speed reduction ratio. Will a robot with the same mass get up to speed quicker if it is on smaller wheels? |
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So we were thinking the cause was the heavy and big radius 8 inch wheels, but correlation does not necessarily mean causation and Jared's equations prove that there is little effect. So next we'll be looking at electrical possibilities like Munchskull brought up. We're not extremely concerned because our 2014 drivetrain worked out so well, but it's always nice to figure out what went wrong and learn from our mistakes. |
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