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pic: 3 CIM WCD Ball Shifter CAD
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Re: pic: 3 CIM WCD Ball Shifter CAD
Those ratios are just about perfect.
Have you considered trying to make the Cims or shafts removable to facilitate easy gearbox removal? Also, you may want more than just the two holes in the WCD block to mount the gearbox to the tube. Two more holes higher up on the gearbox would add a lot of strength. |
Re: pic: 3 CIM WCD Ball Shifter CAD
That is a great looking gearbox!
I have a few questions though... 1) How much does it weigh? 2) What are the actual gears that are being used? The tooth count would be good, no need for product numbers. 3) How do you plan on mounting the gearbox? |
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It is as if Bryce's and R.C.'s two minds are like one. All that's missing are wave washers and an adjustable CIM mount for multiple CIM pinion options. The standoffs are slightly nested into the side plates for extra alignment support, but that's probably optional if there are other supports.
This makes me wonder if we can simply replace the output shaft and output gears on the WCP gearbox with their ball-shifting counterparts to get something that works with minimal modifications. |
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I seem to recall that ballshifters wear out faster ,but I could be wrong there. |
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I think the lightening on the plates is just a bit too aggressive. Reducing weight is nice and all but you still want to keep your gearbox rigid and strong. I would thicken the webs and probably add another horizontal web(s) between the edge and the bearing for the first reduction. Just seems like not a lot of support to me. If you're that desperate to save a couple of ounces, lighten the gears before you lighten the sideplates that aggressively.
I would also be concerned about how little you are supporting the top CIM on this gearbox. |
Re: pic: 3 CIM WCD Ball Shifter CAD
I have my doubts about the press fit into the end of the ballshifter shaft in such a configuration.
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First stage is 12 to 54, second stage low is 24 to 60, and second stage high is 40 to 44. It's mounted with the standard bearing block and the two bolts the are out to the sides. Quote:
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Thanks for all the great responses! Keep it up! |
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Curious how that assembles if you've replaced their setup. |
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There's no reason to lighten a gearbox so aggressively when you have all that extra material in your gears that serves so much less function than the material you've removed from the gearbox. You could still have a heavily lightened gearbox, with just more material and better motor support. You would probably even have a net weight loss if you faced the gears and drilled some holes in them well below the root of the teeth in addition to adding material to the gearbox. |
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If I was going to lighten the gears, I would lighten them as much as reasonable too, but that is a different story. |
Re: pic: 3 CIM WCD Ball Shifter CAD
I agree with others who say that the top CIM isn't mounted well enough. Your gearbox might survive, but adding that extra support for 0.05 lbs gives you a lot more gearbox strength. The heavy CIM motor hanging off the end of the plate will cause the plate to deform, especially when your robot accelerates/decelerates really quickly during a collision.
If you look at many teams' gearbox plates, you'll notice that the plate outlines tend to be completely convex, rather than having little things sticking out. The outline is entirely made up of straight segments, and segments of circles that have their centers inside of the outline of the plate. This also adds a ton of strength, and requires the same size stock to machine from. The top one is mounted in a weaker configuration because of the orientation of the mounting screws. |
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On the upper CIM, your mounting screws are horizontal. Instead of trying to pull out the screw, gravity will deform the gearbox plate and swing the motor down. Last year, I did a simple stress analysis on a couple of our gearbox plates in SolidWorks that were really revealing with motor placement/plate design. I'll see if I can post some screenshots from those to show you what I'm talking about. |
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https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...e9&oe=54D168FA |
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I modified my gearbox plate to look more like yours and did a simple factor of safety analysis. A lower factor of safety corresponds to more load on the material, and a greater deformation of the part.
You could likely get away with what you have drawn up, but some simple improvements will yield huge strength increases. The biggest change you should make is using the 0.75" boss on the front of the CIM to help locate the CIM. It'll increase the positional accuracy of the CIM by quite a bit, and it'll make the part even stronger. All tests were done with the the mounting holes as fixed geometry, and the only load was gravity acting on the 2.82 pound CIM motor. You can roughly double the strength of the part while adding about 0.03 pounds. You can also see why having a convex outline helps too. http://imgur.com/a/xTIpW This is what we came up with last year for a 3 CIM configuration: http://imgur.com/DSjie1M |
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I will consider these images when modifying the design. What software did you use for this? EDIT: Quote:
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Honestly I think it's best practice to design a gearbox as if it was made from solid plate, then lighten after the fact. So the outline of the gearbox is defined by the edge of the CIMs, etc - then remove material. Right now it looks like you're making webs and connecting them, and it's a lot easier to mess that up than it is to go the other way. Correct me if I'm wrong though.
For those reading who want to learn, more on pocketing in this great video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGmsnD0KQMs |
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I start with a layout sketch of center to center distances, and use it to make a second sketch with outlines for bolt holes and bearings. Next, I draw in the webs as just single lines, usually between the center of two circles. I use the offset tool to create the outline of the webs. In the same sketch, I also draw the outline of the gearbox and use the offset tool again to give it thickness. Finally, I fillet and mirror everything. How else are people doing it? I really like the method described in the video. Here's an example of my normal approach: http://imgur.com/a/gXYzS |
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The best part about pocketing last is that if you do it and then you indeed do have to change something, you don't have to practically start the whole design all over again. You just suppress / delete the pocketing, make your changes to the original layout sketch, then redo the pocketing in a new feature. Sometimes you don't even have to redo it. |
Re: pic: 3 CIM WCD Ball Shifter CAD
On lightening:
I've tried a few different styles and I use something similar to Bryce's method nowadays. However, I start with a huge plate, cut all the holes, and then I draw lines connecting the holes and offset them. Then I cut away all the parts that aren't connecting beams or clearances around the holes. I fillet at the end. I would love to see your ballshifting shaft. It might be harder to make than you realize if it's in one piece. |
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We try to go with thinner plates, and skip pocketing alltogether, so the style lends itself well to that as well. I hate parts blowing up on changes, so the connect the dots method is a no go for me. Granted. I'm a grumpy jerk and hate tedious/manual CAD methods. I don't have the energy to brute force with dumb methods like I used to when I was younger. |
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I figure, if we're going to use a CNC machine to cut the plates, we may as well pocket them. I've found that if you use formulas for as many dimensions as possible, use constraints to eliminate as many dimensions as possible, and use rule fillets instead of manual ones, then most changes won't take nearly as much effort. |
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I wasn't sure if you saw, but do you have a an isometric view of the ballshifter shaft? |
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https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...d4841aad532276 |
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Related to this component, if you make the hex shaft attach to the ball shifter with a pin or through bolt instead of making it one part it would make removal of the gearbox pretty simple. Just pull the pin, retract the shaft toward the outside of the robot and pull the gearbox either out the top or bottom. Quote:
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We used 0.752" without problems last year, allthough it was sort of by accident- I plunged with a 0.75" end mill in place of a 5/8" and thought I screwed up. But it fit perfectly! So plunging in with a good 0.75" endmill produces an almost-perfect hole, although boring or even better over-sized reaming would be preferred if you can manage it. They have 0.751" reamers on the market for a really good fit. |
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Also, here is a picture of an updated version that uses some of the suggestions posted in this thread: https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/...e4&oe=551455E2 Thanks for everything so far. Questions and comments are still welcome of course! |
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Do you know if vex did any tests that suggest the ball carrier needs to be steel? My team built a ball shifter for our shooter last year. (I'll admit it's a different situation) We experienced that the ball carrier had the least wear out of the three shifter components. |
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I was not referring to that part in this instance. the part I am talking about currently is what surrounds the plunger. |
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Seeing the support of the CIM in more detail makes me more comfortable in it - I guess it's just my personal preference to have a member follow the outer edge of the CIM to best support the face. You're probably good to go with what you have. |
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If you need to fix fillets, like Adam displayed in his video, you can use the fillet tool to do face fillets that will bridge the intersection of faces where two fillets intersect. Then you don't need to sketch anything. |
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What gear sizes did you end up using on this gearbox?
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wait never mind i just realized you already said this
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Hope that makes sense. |
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The options in SolidWorks for 3D fillets makes it so almost all situations can be handled with a 3D fillet. Also, the hidden line selection option makes it so selecting a bunch of short line segments in, let's say, a sheet metal part with lightening holes for filleting very easy. Paul |
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