robot base
 

Can we mount the electronics on to a steel plate on the robot?

Re: robot base
 

I give you my permission, but it would be better to check the rules.

Re: robot base
 

There is nothing that says you can't. That being said, we use plastic to avoid the possibility of shorts and other electrical issues. The new control system isn't as touchy as the old one was, but make sure you electrical is clean and has no exposed wiring near metal.

We've lost a few expensive components over the years by having PWM cables short or by having insulation wear on other wiring that has caused issues. A little bit of planning can avoid all of that.

Re: robot base
 

Mounting electronics on metal is generally a bad idea for 2 reasons.

1. It conducts electricity!

2. It's heavy. Especially if you're talking about using steel. Electrical components aren't terribly heavy, steel would be overkill.

Ideally electronics should be mounted on something light, non conductive, and easily accessed yet not exposed.

Re: robot base
 

Unless you need the weight for ballast and the bellypan would be a pretty good spot to add it.

Re: robot base
 

Sure, but just because you can doesn't mean you should. Why in the world would you want to mount to a heavy plate that increases your risk of violating R27?

Re: robot base
 

None of the 2015- control system components have grounded frames or other metal elements. (Unless you still have an Axis 206 camera.)


That said, I agree that steel is too heavy for an electrical board. I personally recommend 1/4" polycarbonate. It's light for its size, thick enough so it doesn't flex, and strong enough to add a degree of rigidity to your frame when mounted properly. (And clear so it can give your robot a cool factor!)

Re: robot base
 

26 gauge sheet steel (available at most building supply stores) weighs about half as much as 1/4" polycarbonate per unit area, and weighs just a tad more than 0.1" thick polycarbonate (this thinner polycarbonate is also available at most building supply stores).

We prefer plywood, it's inexpensive, relatively light, rigid, insulating, and easy to work with. And you can screw wood screws into it.

And there isn't really much need to save weight on the bottom of a tall robot--one trick is to make the bottom as heavy as you want, which forces you to make the top of the robot lighter, and thus you have a more stable robot. Robots tipping over might be an issue this year, even without defense being played.

Re: robot base
 

Mounting your Talon SRX and Victor SP motor controllers to metal might actually be desirable for heat dissipation, but it isn't necessary.

Re: robot base
 

Many teams (including ours) have a few custom circuits on the control board (gyroscope, sensor breakouts, relay module for LEDs) which must be insulated.

If you're still using Talon SRs or other relay modules with screw terminals, or if the power plug falls out of the wireless module, a non-conducting board limits the effect of a wire that comes loose.

Re: robot base
 

In 2014, my team mounted the electrical system on a lexan bellypan. Put simply, it was a mild disaster. Although it is "safer" to put electronics on (insulates, less weight, etc.) A piece of lexan with a bunch of heavy parts on it, mounted an inch off the ground, does not go very well after a season of wear and tear. This year, we are using perforated aluminum for the bellypan, and lexan for a secondary board. Why not aluminum for this one too? Aluminum's heavier and would raise the robot CoG.

So:
Lexan is the way to go for boards that are high off the ground, when heatsinking and durability are not a major concern.

Aluminum is the way to go for low-mounting boards, when heatsinking and durability are important.

Re: robot base
 

Another issue with very low mounted lexan and electronics is the possibility of static buildup/discharge as it brushes over the carpet.

Re: robot base
 

Just about anything can be used to mount control system components. We have used perforated aluminum from McMaster for many years. It is lightweight, we use tywraps to hold everything in place (including wiring), and you can see through it. I have a few suggestions though for anyone designing their system now.
1. Please don't mount everything upside down on the bottom of your robot. Items will get damaged when you roll over debris on the field and gravity will work against you when something (breakers!) loosens. (If you are thinking there is nothing to run over, I can assure you, there will be!)
2. All system components need to be visible to both Inspectors and field people who are trying to help you run on the field. If we can't see, we may not be able to help. That means your robot might sit doing nothing in a match or two.
3. If you are going to use metal and intend on drilling mounting holes, be sure to clear away all conductive debris (SWARF) with a vacuum (not compressed air) to insure nothing enters electronics like the RoboRio and PDP and motor controllers.
4. We use tywraps (wire ties in your area) because you only need one tool to remove and replace anything on the board. We never have a conductive item (like a lock washer or nut) fall where we can't get at it or worry where it went when we can't find it.