Re: Wiring Question
 

Thanks Jon. I'm really at a loss for what we're going to do, so hopefully we get something figured out. The students and one of our mentors are looking at how we can possibly get a CIM motor to engage with this and we are quickly running out of ideas.

Re: Wiring Question
 

Do you guys have an actual picture of that device? That motor looks extremely similar to a CIM. are there any part numbers on the motor itself?

Re: Wiring Question
 

No part numbers or anything. Waiting to hear back from the actuator manufacturer to see if they'll give us any details.

Re: Wiring Question
 

Or a BAG motor. The accessories listed along with that actuator suggest that it doesn't draw more than 10 amps.

In order to put a legal motor on the device, the two things that need to match are the mechanical connection and the speed. If you can determine what the necessary motor speed is, then you're halfway there. For most of the other half, pull the existing motor and figure out what kind of pinion gear, or keying, or flat you need to use in order to drive the rest of the actuator. You should be able to drill some well-placed holes in an adapter plate to mount an appropriate motor where the original one was.

Re: Wiring Question
 

It's a worm gear shaft. Do any approved motors have these?

Re: Wiring Question
 

Pull the worm gear off the motor, and see if you have an equivalent sized motor with a similar output shaft you can press the gear onto.

Re: Wiring Question
 

The data sheet on the assembled actuator shows a "full load" current of 4.5A at 12V. This sounds like something much smaller than a CIM or even mini-CIM. The BAG or one of the smaller BaneBots or Denso sounds like a closer match. The first step would be to see if you can get a model number on the motor that is in the actuator, and check that against R42. If it's not there, start racking and stacking the motors on the list against the one you found there. You'd probably rather replace it with a more capable motor, but not one that is several times as capable - you'd probably end up shredding some gear teeth inside the mechanism.

Re: Wiring Question
 

Depending on the diameter of the worm, you might be able to cut it off and bore it out. Alternatively, if you can figure out the specifications of the worm, you might be able to buy one that can be attached to a shaft. If I misunderstood your post and the worm is not cut into the shaft itself, then you should be able to remove and use that one.

Re: Wiring Question
 

I appreciate all the ideas for help, but we had a veteran 3M engineer, a machinist, myself and 6 kids all scratching our heads on a fix for this. The motor output shaft of the motor on the linear actuator is all worm gear. It doesn't have an attachment to the shaft. It has a diameter similar to the shaft of the CIM motor. I can post pictures tomorrow if anyone wants to take a look at it, but I don't see an easy fix here.

Thanks for all the help and advice.

Re: Wiring Question
 

In answer to your earlier question: Nope, no FRC legal motors have a worm gear output shaft. (All you folks who are going to point out the window motors, that's a spur gear output, not a worm gear output--though they do have worm gears in their gearboxes.)

What I would do, in your shoes, is this: Cut the worm gear off of the motor, as close to the motor as possible, OR better yet replace it with one of the same size and thread and a slightly longer length. (McMaster is your friend, I think.) Machine a coupler, worm gear to motor output, but instead of matching the worm gear tooth on the coupler, just leave that side round and drill a hole through both the coupler and the gear. Drive a pin through the hole and secure it, how is up to you. Now make an adapter to fit your chosen motor to the actuator body. Probably won't take more than a couple of days depending on exact setup and machinist skill/available tools. (You may also be able to find a coupler on McMaster or a similar site.)

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As Eric said, cut off the output shaft and then do a little work to get it to mate with another motor. If you need access to a lathe, let me know and we can have you over to our build space for an evening. It's important to get that hole dead center!

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While you're doing all this, it might be a good time to go back and address your original problem, which was making them both go the same speed. Maybe you could just use the whole shaft and front bearing plate from the existing motors, then add some pulleys to the back ends of the shafts and drive them off the same gearbox with timing belts or light chain.

Re: Wiring Question
 

So I think the option of cutting off the worm gear and attaching it to a legal motor would be the quickest, but more difficult option. This would also involve a lot of work our students couldn't do, which I'm not a fan of.

I think our best option is to find a worm gear of the appropriate size, couple it to a legal motor and get some sort of mounting plate to interface with our actuator. This of course, would all have to be stuff that's done after bagging, given the amount of time left. Jon, I'll send you a PM for your details in case we need to take you up on using your space at all. I think it'd be a great experience if some of my team could come over and see your workspace

Thanks again all.

Re: Wiring Question
 

You could use those pwm splitters that came in the KOP this year. I believe they are brown, yellow, and red wires.

Encoder Wiring
 

Hello,

I've searched the internet and some threads but I'm struggling to find a wiring diagram with the encoders and Roborio (pins on encoder vs pins in Roborio). Can someone please share this with us. If someone could reply quickly it would be appreciated. Sorry for asking such a simple question.... Thank you.

Michael