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Solenoid LEDs not on / VEX Base Leak
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We're having trouble getting the solenoids to work. The compressor works fine and is running, but the solenoids are not lighting up nor working.
I think the solenoids are wiring up fine, and we seem to have lost our multimeter....so I can't tell if there's any voltage going. We're using the VEX Solenoid Base Mount - http://www.vexrobotics.com/solenoids-and-manifolds.html, and this also seems to be leaking. I presume it's because the solenoids are not getting power and are not blocking out the air. I would love to show you wiring, but it's incredibly messy that even I have trouble following it sometimes. The connections were initially not weak, the solenoid wires popped out at a slight tug but we re-secured them. Firmware for the PCM is at 1.62, it's reading no faults, and showing all the Solenoids as off. I'm attaching our Begin.vi and our Teleop.vi. |
Re: Solenoid LEDs not on / VEX Base Leak
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Try to clean up your wiring; diagnosing spaghetti at a competition is not fun, trust me. Are you using single or double solenoids? Unfortunately, it is difficult to diagnose problems we can't see. Can you post pictures, even if things are messy? |
Re: Solenoid LEDs not on / VEX Base Leak
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Re: Solenoid LEDs not on / VEX Base Leak
Is your PCM jumper set to 12V or 24V?
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Re: Solenoid LEDs not on / VEX Base Leak
It's a little hard to tell, but it looks like the voltage selection jumper is set to 24V. The solenoids from VEX are all 12V. Switching the jumper should fix the problem.
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Re: Solenoid LEDs not on / VEX Base Leak
I swapped it to 24V after posting this. It was originally 12V.
It was still not working when 12V. |
Re: Solenoid LEDs not on / VEX Base Leak
Concur on the PCM 24v jumper. Those are 12v solenoids.
Are the LEDs for the individual solenoid 0 output on the PCM lighting up when button 5 is pressed? |
Re: Solenoid LEDs not on / VEX Base Leak
What is the CAN ID of your PCM? Does it match the one referenced in the code? I think it should be 0.
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Re: Solenoid LEDs not on / VEX Base Leak
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I'm going to test pressing buttons and seeing it light up. |
Re: Solenoid LEDs not on / VEX Base Leak
General update, we're finding the solenoid base mount to be leaking quite a bit, from where the ports of the mount We unplugged the regulator and solenoid and just capped the other end, and it was finally starting to build some pressure. There was still some leaks, and it's because the Teflon on the threaded joints wasn't looking great and we didn't actually tighten them all the way.
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Re: Solenoid LEDs not on / VEX Base Leak
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Now to fix the leak. |
Re: Solenoid LEDs not on / VEX Base Leak
Begin by removing all the black tubes 1-by-1 from the block and check for flush tube end cuts (square), tube ends, trim as necessary properly, and re-insert them, push all the way into the connector & pull or tug out to make sure they are fully seated properly...I can see the bottom second one in pic#3 is not all the way in, see how the connector is higher than all the rest nearby. *That should not stop the lights from working on the individual sol's, but minimum air pressure is needed to actually make them fire. No doubt in my mind that port is leaking much air.
Will the system currently hold stored air for say 15 or 30 minutes or more if you pump it up to 60~100PSI without leaking down much? If not, get that right first. Start at the compressor and find the leaks first, 1 connection at a time. Once it does, try overnight. Pump it up, turn off robot power, watch gauges for pressure bleed down. I'm sure you already found that speed controller in the pics w/ only the ground attached and the positive not attached any longer upper left in pic #1.....Looks like it (the hot), is in your fingers. And need a bit more insulation tape on the PDB connectors main power connections (IMPORTANT not to see any of the silver connectors there). Also suggest blowing that bot out w/ some compressed air to clean out the debris a lil'. Addition: I just looked at Pic#1 and the second black tube in the top row also isn't seated all the way in either. |
Re: Solenoid LEDs not on / VEX Base Leak
Also, if you have more tubing avail., I would replace both the inlet and outflow tubing to/from the regulator (and maybe even the connectors to straights from 90's maybe) w/ a little longer tubes as they are pulling the connectors off center which can also lead both (all 3~Reg. in/reg. out/ & block in connectors to leak.
That yellow locking collar on the regulator is half way up, half way down in the pic....Up to adjust regulator pressure, down to lock. Get it into 1 or the other positions also...right side is down/left up in the pic. When it is in the adjustment position it leaks very slightly on purpose to help you adjust the regulator pressure so after adjusting it, always lock it. Can you attach a few more pictures? Start at the compressor and work back to the block please. Getting the High Pressure side completed first and holding air (always insert a pressure relief valve in it), dividing the system into sections, and then working towards the low pressure section 2nd. seems to work best when making sure the system doesn't leak. |
Re: Solenoid LEDs not on / VEX Base Leak
4 Attachment(s)
Some more pictures. Sorry some of them are crappy quality. Let me know if there are close-ups of anything specific you'd like.
We've been re-doing some of the tubing because it got frustrating trying to debug things would get pulled out. So we had a leak right out from the compressor, and then a leak near the release valve and the high pressure gauge. The air tanks all seem to be good even though the one T joint seems a little iffy. We were able to get both the High Pressure side working, although I'd like to run a test to see how the pressure may bleed, so we'll do that. We also just setup a low pressure side with the outlet of the regulator just sent to a release valve, and that also seemed to build pressure, although it was going to about 40 PSI, and would keep going while it was still at 40. So with the solenoid base, the orange connectors on the base being close to each other means that it is fit better than when the orange connectors are farther apart? |
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