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16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
Hi!
The Wago power connectors for the roboRIO and the PCM, for example, are spec'd for 16 gauge solid core. We happen to have used 14 gauge solid core. Probably a bit of a "push" for the Wago connectors. But - will this cause a problem for us at inspection? Thanks, Martin FRC Team 3045 ("SWAT") |
Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
A follow - up question - thoughts on the "inspection quality" vs "operational quality" - the latter being reliability on the field - of 16 AWG solid vs (tinned / untinned) 16 AWG stranded for the power connections from PDU to roboRIO and PCM...?
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Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
I doubt that you would be ruled non-compliant for too large a wire by the inspectors. It's certainly not on the checklist.
That said, if you're having real difficulty shoving the wire into the WAGO, that's probably a practical issue somewhere down the road - either this year, when you don't get as much contact as you should, or down the road when the "springs" in the WAGOs have experienced an inelastic shift. Further, from a practical standpoint, our team has moved each year towards having a greater percentage of stranded vs solid wire on our robot. While stranded does not make those nice, neat right angle turns that IBE members want to see, stranded is much more amenable to continued functioning if the two ends move relative to one another, as happens all too often in robotics. In utterly practical terms, if you buy wire locally, get it from NAPA or Auto Zone or O'Reilly's or Pep Boys, not Home Depot or Lowe's. (though we do buy a lot of frame stock and miscellaneous hardware from both HD and Lowes, including some critical sensor mountings!) |
Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
We have always been 100% stranded wire. I don't recommend any solid wire on the robot.
Avoid placing wire in openings that are too large. Here's why: last year I fixed probably a half dozen robots at regionals with cRIO crashes, due to wires too large for the connector. |
Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
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I second this - the wago-style connectors scare me if used with solid-core wire. |
Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
The only wiring rules I have seen involve colour and minimum gauge requirements.
There is a "catch all" category for anything that might create a safety hazard, but that is best reserved for situations where there actually is a safety hazard. Jason |
Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
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Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
Solid wire is for houses, for a very good reason - metal fatigue. Since houses do not move or vibrate, solid is Vine. In machinery you almost never use solid as the vibrations will cause the wires to crack, the same as any metal that flexes. Robots vibrate more than most machines.
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Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
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I guess we got lucky this year. We bought the plywood for the field elements and some wire from Home Depot this year, and got a discount because we were a local high school. |
Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
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Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
Wire has a couple attributes that make it better or worse for robot use:
type -- stranded vs solid size -- gauge insulation -- type Auto supply houses stock wire that, in most cases, meets all three criteria. They aren't necessarily the cheapest places to buy wire, but they're accessible. We sometimes use wire from Home Depot -- in particular we bought some stranded 12ga THHN this year, because we were there and needed it -- but the THHN insulation can be fairly stiff and difficult to work with. We probably should have gone and bought two rolls of 12ga wire at the auto parts store instead. |
Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
Wire from Home Depot or Lowe's is mostly intended for houses, which, as noted earlier, don't move. Robots move...like cars...so buying wire intended for cars is a better idea.
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Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
From the screensteplive stuff - "To maximize pullout force and minimize connection resistance wires should not be tinned (and ideally not twisted) before inserting into the Wago connector."
If they are recommending not tinning the wire (which would make it solid) or twisting the wire (so it would not flatten out when the jaws close) one would think solid core is also not recommended. Right? |
Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
OK,
There is a few items here that can be answered. 1. Solid #14 for powering your devices will not violate any robot rules. That size of solid wire is more like a crowbar to the connectors though. What vibration the wire will receive will be transmitted into the connector. I am afraid early connector failure will be the result. 2. There are a variety of outlets for wire. We use MCM Electronics for a variety of wire, parts and tools. You can find them at http://www.mcmelectronics.com/ 3. The Wago connectors do take solid wire but tinned, stranded wire is not the same. When you tin stranded wire, it does make the wire solid but in doing so, the outside strands cause a 'high spot' on the wire. These are what is contacting the the metal inside the connector and so all current must flow through these little spots on the outside of the wire. That increases the series resistance of the contact significantly. If you need to tin for making insertion easy, you can just add a little solder to the very end of the wire. The Wago connectors depend on this contact. If you really check into the specs, you will find that Wago downgrades the contact max current rating when used with solid wire simply due to the smaller contact area with solid wire. If you use the Wago ferrules, they are actually square in shape to maximize the contact area. |
Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
I was really hoping with the redesign of the control system we would get away from the troublesome wago connectors but instead we went to a smaller, more difficult to use size on things like the PCM and VRM. Why cant we just have screw terminals?
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Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
If you're having trouble using the Wago and Weidmuller connectors, it's probably because you're not using them properly. I find them simple, easy, and reliable. The only time I have any problems with them is when someone has bent, twisted, or otherwise mangled the wire after stripping it.
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Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
If we could make it so that the one student trained to connect wires well, is at all the meetings all night long, we would probably have fewer problems with them. But we end up having several students work on wiring, and usually it's a new thing to them. It just takes one wired installed not quite up to snuff, to knock out the robot.
Of course, we had the same problem when there were screw type connecters on the power distribution system back in 2008. |
Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
Data point from one CSA:
Power connection issues I see a lot: screw terminal loose -- speed controller, old PDB, circuit breaker wire too big for Weidmuller terminal at RIO, comes out bad crimping or incorrect use of solder connection Anderson power connector not fully engaged Power connection issues rarely seen: wire loose at wago connector |
Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
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Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
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Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
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Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
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The tie breaker in my book is that if you use ring terminals, unless a screw rattles its way completely out of the threads to fall onto the deck, the wire isn't going anywhere. And OBTW, the earlier responses on Home Depot and Lowe's were spot on. |
Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
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Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
The WAGO style connectors do a pretty nice job in industrial environments but need additional wire management as part of the installation. Screw terminals don't require wire management but do benefit from this added step.
I installed control wiring inside our transmitter more than ten years ago. The transmitter was supplied with these compression type contacts. What I didn't like on those was the need to have a special tool made just for those terminals. We used #22 for most and up to #16 for the higher current requirements as specified by the manufacturer. All was stranded wire. I would guess that I wired somewhere in the neighborhood of 100 connectors over seven racks. Most of them had 10 to 20 contacts. The control cabinet has a panel that pretty much fills the rack. There has not been one failed connection. While the transmitter is firmly attached to the floor, we are on the 100th floor of Sears Tower. The building moves, a lot, and we are running cooling water through the final amplifier cabinet at 25 gallons per minute. There is not as much vibration as on ship but there is as much as an industrial installation in a factory. |
Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
Wago's are the way things are going in industry. Constant tension, vibration resistant, eliminates under or over torque and stripped or cross threaded screws.
Get your ferrule crimper ready and stock up on tiny flat heads. |
Re: 16 gauge solid core vs 14 gauge solid core (and Wago connectors)
In rereading the thread, I should add this.
The WAGO terminals on the PDP are designed for stranded wire or WAGO ferrules. The manufacturer states that solid wire should be derated as the contact surface is reduced. The current handling ability of #14 solid is the same as #16 stranded due to the reduced surface within the contact. Tinned, stranded conductors should be derated even more. Depending on the person who performed the tinning operation, a #10 tinned stranded conductor could have the same current capability as a #16, un-tinned conductor. If you tinned your power wiring prior to inserting in the PDP and have a problem with motor performance, this is the first thing to replace. |
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