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Awesome Electronics Box!
Check out the new electronics box my team designed and built for this year's game. Last year our electronics was a disaster; speed controllers ziptied to gearboxes, relays mounted in inaccessible locations, wires everywhere (and unlabeled). This year we vowed to do better and this is what we came up with. It's a work in progress, so any feedback is greatly appreciated!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klMEioarUds |
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Here's a CAD render of the box in addition to the video provided above, in case anyone is interested.
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Re: Awesome Electronics Box!
Very, very, very nice!
The only issue I see is the wago connections on the PDP being a bit of a hassle to get to but otherwise I dig it. |
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That looks slick. Are you still able to access all the connections?
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Nice.
If I were inspecting your robot, I would want documentation that the motor connections are rated for 40 amps. |
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Good tip! They're Anderson powerpole connectors rated for 45 amps. The wires are also the appropriate size, I'll make sure to print out a spec sheet.
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Great work! I love tidy solutions like this.
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Very impressive! Gold Star for you guys.
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Very clean and flexible design. Well done! What CAD software are you using and what did you use to make that animated CAD model?
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http://www.alliedelec.com/images/pro...S/70162308.pdf |
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How's the heat dissipation? Looks like it could get a little hot. Awesome job!
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Looks great! We did a similar thing with our control board this year, but we decided to route our wires above the pegboard in panduit tracks for easier inspection, as opposed to behind the pegboard (I'm presuming the wires are back there, as they're not visible in the video). We did not do panel-mount or color-coded andersons, just left some pigtails out for each one, and clearly labeled each with a 1-6 value. We went with six talons as opposed to your seven, but we were initially only using four and added a fifth to add more power to our lift; we still have a spare which we can swap out in just a few minutes. We mounted our polycarbonate cowling a couple of inches above the components to allow passive rather than active airflow.
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