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pic: WCD Summer Project
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Re: pic: WCD Summer Project
Is this 34lbs as pictured?
I woud change the rectangular lightening pattern in the front into a triangular one, to preserve more strength, but that's just me. Is that 15.35fps free speed or realistic? I think you can get your gearbox lighter if you wanted to by adding a lightening pattern or just redesigning into a flipped-cim verison like 192 in 2014. Ugh bumpers. I hate mounting bumpers to a WCD. It always looks so awkward (or weighs a lot) when I try. :D I look forward to seeing those when you add them in. |
Re: pic: WCD Summer Project
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Re: pic: WCD Summer Project
This thing looks to have little to no torsional stiffness right now. A structural bellypan would help immensely, or some sort of cross-bracing between your drive gearboxes. 20 generally runs standoffs between their drive gearboxes in our WCD's to help provide that torsional stiffness you're currently lacking.
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Re: pic: WCD Summer Project
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Thanks all for the help thus far, it is much appreciated. If anyone could tell me how to attach a file to a post, I can get a STEP file up if y'all want to take a look at it. |
Re: pic: WCD Summer Project
I would drop 2 of the CIMS and add that weight back in to the front/back rails and adding a bellypan. 6 CIMS will be a liability next year with the brownouts.
I get worried about taking so much weight out of frame rails like that, the weight savings are usually not great compared with the greatly increased risk of bending a frame rail. Also, any reason you don't have your gearbox in 2 stages given that you are running 4in wheels? |
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As far as the gearbox, there are currently three reductions going on: The 12t CIM Gear to the 50t Cluster Gear The 50t Cluster Gear to 40t dog gear or 30t Cluster Gear to 60t dog gear And the final stage 30t spur gear to 44t output gear. I couldn't package the speed I wanted in only two stages, so I added the third stage to get the speed I wanted without going to something like a three inch wheel. There is still lots of lightening to go, and the bellypan will be non-structural, only to support electronics, so I'll have to find some other way to stiffen the chassis. As far as removing weight, I'm designing this assuming there will be bumpers next year, in which case some added rigidity can also be included in the bumper construction, most likely. |
Re: pic: WCD Summer Project
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But on a more serious note at stall in low gear these motors will each draw 27-ish amps, so though that is enough to throw the breaker, I don't plan on stalling them, I plan on pushing people out of the way or breaking traction. In previous years we ran similarly geared 6CIM drives without issue unless we stalled in high gear. And I feel that the extra pushing power is always nice to have, motors can always be removed later. |
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Re: pic: WCD Summer Project
Whoops, that was not what I meant to say. The 27 amps is the "Pushing Match Motor Current" value from the JVN calculator. *walks away embarrassed*
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Re: pic: WCD Summer Project
I believe the reason Travis is specifically mentioning next year is that it will be the first game with the new control system where anyone would have any reason to build a 6 CIM drivetrain. Some have suggested that the system is more vulnerable to brownouts than in the past. (I'm not particularly informed on this, I don't know if people have tested this etc)
However, at least in the context of the previous control system, gearing your low gear so that your motors draw <30 amps each when traction limited is the right move. It's a conservative number that should help prevent pushing matches from tripping your main breaker. Be careful to manage current draw throughout the rest of the robot as well. As for the design, it's not too bad. I would remove the lightening pattern from the front and back rails. The square lightening versus a triangle or X pattern is substantially weaker, and most any lightening pattern in 1/8" wall tube is going to result in a weaker and less rigid tube than a 1/16" wall unlightened tube. And it won't even be lighter! If you want to save weight, you can usually get away with 1/16" wall tube for the crossmembers. While I wouldn't say this chassis would have "little to no" torsional stiffness, a lot could be gained with a structural belly pan for relatively little cost of weight (since you already need something to mount electronics to regardless). The waterjet or lasered aluminum belly pan is a slick way to do it, but a composite like garolite left solid can also do the trick for a lot less machining time. You could also add some standoffs connecting your two gearboxes together at the mounting holes. Also do keep in mind that your manipulator design may also provide some cross bracing, and in that case your drivetrain doesn't necessarily need to be structurally perfect independent of other subsystems. |
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