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Re: Which kind of Aluminum is a good choice
Cost matters too right?
I really don't think you will put yourself at huge risk of going overweight by using steel just because you used steel. We use steel parts a lot and haven't been overweight ever (or even close). Whatever is best for the application (or available at the time). Both the "no steel ever" and "7075 is inferior for FRC" generalizations are both wrong. To the op: 6061 for almost everything. Mild steel, 7075 Aluminum, or 2024 Aluminum for shafting. 5052 or 3003 for sheet metal. 6061 and 5052 are both very weldable (5052 more so), and we've had welded frames made with both before. |
Re: Which kind of Aluminum is a good choice
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Re: Which kind of Aluminum is a good choice
We use 2024-T3 (0.05") and 6061-T6 (0.09" and I think 0.063") for sheet metal. I believe we also have some 5052-H32 sheet laying around as well.
For general purpose stuff like superstructures and the like, 6061-T6 is generally the go-to. For hex shafting, we either use 7075-T73 or 2024-T351 (we'll either get it from onlinemetals or mcmaster). As mentioned before, we've never had any sheared shafts when using aluminum. Also, we come very close to being overweight every year (partly because of mismanagement of resources, but we also generally build tanks for robots for some reason). |
Re: Which kind of Aluminum is a good choice
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So why then would we spend $28 plus shipping and tax to get 5 12t #35 sprockets from Vex to save ~5lbs when we spent $0 on a mix of steel and aluminum. Finally the steel sprockets from Martin Gear will all last longer than the aluminum one thus adding to long term savings. In the end we were nowhere near 120lbs. Weight isn't everything. |
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We do a lot of things on our robots the way I mentioned in my other post and have saved thousands over the past two years on actual money spent on parts. Our 2014 bot was worth (by our BOM) 2.6 times what we spent on it. Edit: With regard to money I don't mean to say that we are trying to stay away from breaking the BOM limit. The point is to save more of the cash we get for parts each year. |
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As part of our pneumatic-actuated H-drive project, the students (for good reason having to do with floor clearance and bolt head thickness) wanted to go to a 6" dualie strafe wheel on the TB-mini. The tank wheels are 4", driven 8.45:1 in an AM 14U2 chassis, with two 4" wheels stripped of tread used as spacers. To compensate for the greater diameter, we decided to do a lower gear ratio. I knew that we had a 10.71 TB2 in stock from our 2014 (Aerial Assist) robot, so we located it and swapped out the gears (we wanted to use the long hex shaft). I told the students to move the shaft plate labeled 8.45:1 to whichever gearbox got those gears; they accepted this suggestion instantly, and took it as their own. (minor victory!) Through 2014, we used keyed round shafts rather than hex, so the AA gearbox had a keyed round shaft. However, when they put the 8.45 gears together with the keyed round shaft, they couldn't put the pieces together. In particular, the shaft would not go cleanly through the bearing; I suspect they used a bit of force getting it out in the first place. They recognized that the shaft was slightly bent. We located a new matching shaft, and they put the 8.45:1 gearbox with a round shaft together. I pocketed the shaft for possible use in our "first four years" shadow box. Yesterday evening, I verified that the mangled shaft is steel; a magnet sticks to it. I can't see using aluminum of any grade in this capacity. The shaft in question was not used in the drive system; it was used to swing a "hammer" that "kicked" the yoga ball. Despite always supporting the other side of the hammer, somewhere along the way, the shaft deformed, most particularly near the key slot. Curiously, checking the hammer, there is less deformation of the aluminum hub than of the steel shaft. |
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This just further reinforces Cory's point - you shouldn't use material to compensate for a bad design decision, because the difference in strength is somewhat marginal anyway and you can still screw it up. 7000 series aluminium shafting isn't really that difficult to use, and instead of steering away from a common sense way to save at least 5 pounds per robot (once you add up all the gears, shafts, etc), you should steer away from bad design decisions that load shafts poorly. I guess if you're still convinced, I'll enjoy having 5 more pounds of mechanism than you do, or 5 pounds less mass to accelerate. |
Re: Which kind of Aluminum is a good choice
Metal, Metal, Metal. First robots could stand to have a little fiber in thier diet.
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Re: Which kind of Aluminum is a good choice
One thing to note is a lot of aluminum extrusions sold as "architectural shapes" including many you'll find at home centers such as Home Depot are not 6061, but rather 6063. Aside from being about half the strength, 6063 does not cut, drill, or machine nearly as nicely as 6061. It does polish to a nice mirror shine though.
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