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pic: WCD off season chassis from 2471
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Re: pic: WCD off season chassis from 2471
I don't see any chain. Is that chain-in-tube or are you just powering the middle wheels?
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Are you going chain-in-tube to power the corner wheels?
Are the two vertical 2" x 1" tubing pieces on the left side (as pictured) corner wheels encoder mounts? Why do they stick up above the height of the frame? |
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OP please to tell. |
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What lead you to choose to use tensioners with your design?
One of the major benefits of the in-tube design is that it's practically impossible for a chain to jump the sprocket, especially if the center-to-center distance between the sprockets is correct. |
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Do I spy shock absorbers? Or is that black ABS for spacing?
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for your chain in tube design, are you using 2"x1" tubing? if so, are you using COTS sprockets? I haven't been able to fit 2 COTS sprockets into the tube. It would be great if anyone could tell me how everything was packaged together.
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I haven't looked into the 17 tooth double sprocket, but can you create a dropcenter with the larger diameter? I know the clearance is pretty slim already for 16t, but I don't know for sure with 17t. |
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Very nice and clean drive base. I want our team to look into a chain-in-tube design this year but I've always wondered how you assemble the chain and sprockets in the tube :confused: Care to give me some insight on the procedure? Are there access hole on the underside? Has anyone ever done this with belts?
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If you are using 2 sprockets in the middle like we do we have a small piece of axle that we'll put through the two sprockets to hold them together during the drop and push that piece out with the final axle. |
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Got it - thanks.
Are those 3" x 0.875" wheels? How are they kept from slipping off the hex shaft? |
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The 17t sprocket works in the 2 x 1 x 1/8 because it has a large enough pitch diameter that the chain clears the 1.125 bearing OD. |
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What are you using to hold the corners of the frame together? It's not clear to me
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See "Chassis Tube Connector" |
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It would be interesting to see the FEA for the block vs gusset design. On my team the thought was that blocks were stronger because the blocks were pulling the frame members toward each other.
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Does anyone know where to find a cad file for this?
The half inch hex |
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Wait, Mean Machine's not doing swerve? :D
Glad to see you're having fun and building robustly for BunnyBots -- should be a fun event. |
Re: pic: WCD off season chassis from 2471
What are you doing for center drop? Do the sprockets you're using inside the tube have enough clearance with the walls of the tubing for a center drop? I haven't seen that done before but since you're using 1/16" tubing it could be possible.
Do you feel 1/16" walled tubing is strong enough for a traditional drive train? |
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Anything that survives this BunnBot game will certainly be "strong enough for a traditional drive train" |
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Generally, 1/8" wall (or .1" wall) tubing is used on the driveline in order to support the bearings or internal bearing blocks better. 1/16" is too thin for a drivetrain bearing fit not supported by anything else. So regardless of strength many teams run 1/8" wall on the driveline. This could be different for systems like the VersaBlock which don't rely on the internal walls of the tube for support. As for your cross members, I have heard in the past that teams have dealt with buckling cross members under very heavy defense when they used 1/16" 2x1 tubing. This obviously depends on the number of crossmembers used, any other cross-structural support from other mechanisms, etc. but I wouldn't just say "1/16th is easily strong enough" as a general statement. |
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