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2016 Bosch motor 6004 RA3 194-06
Just wanted to start a thread for any questions, feedback, suggestions on this year’s first choice offering for the Bosch motor PN 6004 RA3 194-06. I work for Bosch in the motors division so I am familiar with the technical details on this motor. Also, I’m currently an FRC mentor and have been for the past 15 years (wow how time flies).
Hopefully teams find this a useful addition to the motor options. It’s best for a quick addition without much worry about custom gearing and fits a pocket in the options where you might want more torque than the window and snow blower motors offer. Of course at a cost of speed. With a build in thermal switch it is very unlikely to make magic smoke or destroy itself from overheating. It also has an integrated hall sensor which can be quite useful for position feedback and to give the programming teams something to play with. It’s good to see this option becoming more common in many of the KOP motors. Some of the other Bosch teams had some initial samples to experiment with so may be able to share some early ideas on how best to utilize. Interfacing with the start output might be the biggest challenge. Wish we had a hex output:o . Thoughts about 3d printing an interface has been brought up but needs to be experimented with since it may not be strong enough. Another option is if you can find or mill a square 6mm x 6mm steel or Aluminum shaft....or even mill down a hex shaft. It's very important that you have a tight fit since any slop with slowly start to strip out the connection and once that goes it's very hard to repair. |
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Last year, Team 20 actuated their forks by installing a BAG motor to the Window Motor gearbox with an encoder integrated between the BAG output shaft and the worm. More power, included sensor integration, and honestly not that much more difficult than dealing with that star output shaft. Lower resource teams may be scared away by the star output, it is not easy to interface with at all. I think if this had a 1/2" hex output you would have a lot more interest from teams. One application that comes to mind is the window motor shifters employed by Team 67 (I think they ditched that when they started using pneumatics?). The slow speed won't hurt you, and the added integrated position feedback might make it simpler to integrate. |
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We received our first two samples of this motor last night and they looked very promising for light loads. I had a whole bunch of questions for you but then I realized most are answered here:
http://files.andymark.com/FRC_Bosch_...ec_sheetv1.pdf One question remaining after reading the specs: Is it possible the output power curve is on an incorrectly labelled axis? Example: If you look at the peak power point at 11 N.m, the Input power should be 13V x 6A = 78 Watts. The output power curve shows ~14W, and doublechecking torque & RPM confirms it at 13.8Watts I don't expect high mechanical efficiency from a worm drive, but ~18% seems way off. Can you check and/or clarify? (Or correct me if I missed a unit conversion or decimal place.) Regardless, it looks like a nice, light gearmotor option and the hall effect sensor makes it extra useful over a window motor. The challenge as you point out-- will be the relatively fragile output drive material, so that's a problem for us to solve. Square drive looks like an obvious solution, but more contact area would be better. Can you point us to a specific vehicle usage? We might be able to scrounge junkyard parts for the proper mating 8-point shaft. If the junction has survived automotive durability testing, it has a good shot at surviving FRC duty (if properly applied). |
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Are there any COTS 8 point shafts available? If not, what would you suggest we use? We don't have the machining capabilities to make one out of metal. My first thought was 3D printing, but testing would need to be done to see how much stress a 3D printed shaft/hub could take.
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This interfaces with quite a number of GM seats. It's a long list so I'll try to dig that out. It is specifically used for the recliner function in the power seats. I may have a few of these star shafts laying around that I can send if I find enough....maybe cut into pieces. I'll also see if we can find some scrap at our Tier 1.
Regarding efficiency I too was a bit surprised but that's what comes out of our dyno measurments. Actually too much efficiency is a problem in seat and window applications in that you don't want movement as the car bounces about on rough roads. In this motor there's a worm and two stages of spur gears for ~179:1 gear reduction. |
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Does anyone have a CAD file for it?
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Have you tried drilling out the star pattern at 3/8" and broaching a key or a 3/8" hex?
This motor seems like a good choice when you would like to use a hobby servo motor, but need much more power (and have a home position sensor). The biggest issue I see with this motor is that it can't support any load on the output. In FRC we love to abuse our motors and gearboxes by hanging way too much weight on them. Do you know if these will be available from AndyMark after First Choice is over? |
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how to attach a lever to the motor (just guessing here) get one of these adapters, which you might already have in your toolbox.
![]() Insert the square end into the star shaped hole in the motor. Might take some grinding to get it to fit. then put a 1/4" combination wrench on the hex part of the adapter. |
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Are the internal gears metal?
How much torque can the output shaft experience before breaking an internal component? Dave |
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We have a metal gear option but it was so heavy we decided not to offer it. |
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You definitely need to mount this to a completely supported shaft since that acts as the output and second support. If you use the motor to support the shaft then you will most likely have problems. We decided to offer in limited amounts to get a feel if teams will use them. If there is enough demand then we may be able to consider another order. This is a high volume production motor so it's fairly easy to order more if needed. |
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We received our first 2 motors yesterday. It looks like the internal star pattern will also accept a 6mm square key (I measured 6.05mm). Oversized key stock (+0/+0.08 tolerance) will probably fit nicely (in stock at McMaster-Carr). I'm also thinking about modifying a 1/4" bore AndyMark hub to accept the 6mm square. Thoughts?
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The reason I suggested putting a wrench on the output of this motor, is because of the speed at which it rotates. There really isn't much use for a shaft, is there?
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As long as what you are driving is fully supported there really isn't much need for a shaft I guess.
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Seems like broaching a 3/8" hex still leaves some meat on the gear. Think I'll try and see how it holds up.
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I laid out one concept for packaging this motor that would fully support the load by sandwiching 2 mounting plates around (1 or 2) piece(s) of 1" square tube. The motor has only one (slotted) mounting hole, so I added a bore to locate on one of the motor bosses and provide some "clocking" of the motor. The drive shaft is a piece of 1/2" hex milled down to a 6mm square on one end. Another option would be to use a 3/8" hex all the way, so I'm curious to see Kevin's results on broaching the motor out to a 3/8" hex.
If there's interest, I'd happily share the CAD file. I got one quote online for waterjet cutting the plates, and it looks like about $100 to make 10 pieces. |
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I am interested in the CAD file. SolidWorks format hopefully.
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That's a nice robust design. I'll experiment over the weekend with broaching a hex and see how it goes.
For a less robust way of doing it I've had success 3D printing a hub inside two plates that you can mount an arm. Simplifies a bit in that you can eliminate bearings. |
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Hi Kevin,
Seeing as you work for Bosch, is there a source for connectors for last year's Bosch donated spindle motor (PN 6 004 RA3 353-01) which also has Hall signal pins? Looking at the provided PDFs, the motor connectors look very similar. Can you confirm that the harness will work on both motors? Thanks, Dan |
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It's the same connector. I can send you some if you PM me your address.
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I modified the original plate to better serve as a corner gusset if you should choose to use it that way. I then saved the Solidworks file as a Parasolid and zipped it. The link (to get around the 5MB limit) is here: https://app.box.com/s/lcv76duqngz2pukh9qdnlgqz7i5hlqq1 Let me know what you think, and Merry Xmas to all...... |
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I was able to broach a 3/8" hex and it appears to work quite well. I haven't put the motor through FRC type durability testing yet but so far that seems to be a good option.
Actually the rotary broach that I have goes about 3/4 of the way through the gear however I was able to carefully tap a hex shaft the remaining distance by making sure the gear was supported. For those on the fence about investing in a linear or rotary broach I would highly recommend as we have used several times over the years. The nice thing about a rotary broach is that the main investment is the tool holder (~$300) and then you can add a wide range of cutting inserts for around $40 a piece. |
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The square 'neck' of a 1/4" carriage bolt fits.
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thanks!
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Thanks Ryan!
I should point out that there is a thermal switch built into this motor. If you are running close to or at stall for long periods of time you will most likely trip the thermal switch. It will reset over a period of time but you would notice intermittent operation. Not to worry its doing it job to prevent catastrophic meltdown. |
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Perhaps a Round Two of testing is warranted, just keeping the motor in stall until the thermal switch trips and confirming that the motor retains its original performance characteristics after it has been allowed to cool back down. Either way, that makes these motors seem practically rookie-proof... ::safety:: |
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Does anyone know where to buy more?
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Two questions for you.
A) What does "Tier 1" mean? As opposed to "Tier 2"? (Not looking for names, just meanings) B) Do you have a state space model of the motor you could share? I'd like to be able to simulate motors mathematically for some control system development & feedback tuning but getting the parameters can be difficult. |
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Is this a car part? If so, what car does it fit? :)
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_Alpha_platform |
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http://firstchoicebyandymark.com/fc16-059 |
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I wonder how one translates GM part numbers to Bosch part numbers? besides ordering one and looking at it?
http://parts.ganleygm.com/p/Cadillac.../15894214.html |
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It would be nice to get a part number for one of them, but it's also possible that it's similar to many other seat recliner motors (I never knew there was such a thing! but I drive 50+ year old cars all the time) that might be useful.
$50 is a reasonable price for a nice slow powerful gear motor |
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FYI, the end motion of the seat recline is a result of the pretty low gearing in the motor and additional gearing in the seat mechanism. I'll do my best to dig up the part number. |
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We're looking into options for providing as a "purchase as needed" item but can't make any promises until we work through the details involved. I'll do my best to offer replacement parts to teams that have received through first choice. |
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Hello, our team has decided that they would like to use this on an elevator component. We have a few questions on how we can implement this motor to its fullest.
1) Wiring. We have the motor +/- and have been driving them. However, we are not sure how to wire the two addition wires (additional to the motor power) to gain access to the internal encoder (Hall effect sensor?). 2) If this is a hall effect sensor what part of the RoboRio do we plug it into? Is it digital or analog? 3) If the "encoder" that is in this motor is a hall effect sensor what component do our programmers use to get information from it to base position on. Is this a Counter object? Thanks all, and happy last week of build! |
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-Kevin |
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Thanks Kevin
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Does that sound correct? The rest of this makes a bit more sense now that I know we are indeed dealing with a hall effect sensor. Thanks much. |
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I would like to buy this motor any good sources to buy this exact model?
Thank you in advance |
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As mentioned you must supply a power source for the hall circuit since it doesn't feed of the motor power inputs.
Just as a reference I made a comparison of reading the hall signal with 12V and 6V input (power supply wouldn't go any lower). At 12V the difference from peak to valley is ~3.9V. It's ~1.6V with 6V input. May explain why the Robo Rio is having trouble reading at the lower voltage. |
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Today after hooking up the oscilloscope we were able to verify a few things and start getting values to count.
Wiring We took a standard PWM cable and connected as follows: Red wire to the 200 Ohm resistor and then to Pin #2 of the motor. The White wire connects to the motor side of the resistor/Pin #2. Then Black wire to Pin #4. Plugged this into an Analog Channel on the RoboRio (5V power supply). Code We used a AnalogTrigger (Java) to tie into the analog signal and set its limits based off the values we were getting from the oscilloscope. Code:
AnalogTrigger trigger = new AnalogTrigger(0); |
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Saw a typo above; it's 174.9:1 gearing, of course.
Here's a sample C++ code using the counter so no ticks of the encoder are missed. Code:
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Thanks cedwards and SLAB-Mr.Thomas for sharing your results. Looks like your having success getting this to work with 5V. I'll try to get the spec sheet updated once we have a confirmation this is working ok with the CRio and we aren't missing too many counts.
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We are a team using this motor. we would like to get more of them. is there a team or a place we can go to get it?
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If anyone needs spare motors we have another order in process. These will be distributed through AndyMark as a donated item.
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