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JPBlacksmiths 22-12-2015 19:57

Motor Controllers
 
So this is a question that I have had for a few years now, and never really gotten a good answer to it:

Which motor controller is the best for which situation? Meaning is there specific applications were one controller is better then the other, or is there just one motor controller which is the best, period?

This question has resurfaced for me especially with the creation of the new motor controllers such as the spark.

Thanks,
JP
Co-Captain Team 806

DaveL 22-12-2015 20:12

Re: Motor Controllers
 
In 2013 we liked the Talon because chips and aluminum dust kept destroying our Jags. We also like the 888 because the fan is already installed.
Going forward we are trying out the new Talons with a CAN bus.

Would like to here from others on how they connect the Talon green and yellow CAN wires together. Vex sells a nice device but it's expensive and it takes up a lot of room.

Dave

Ari423 22-12-2015 20:12

Re: Motor Controllers
 
My personal favorite is the Victor 888, but I chose the Spark because it does basically the same thing, costs about half, and it's still available. I would say the only case where I wouldn't use the Spark or Victor is if I wanted to do built-in PID control, where I would use the Talon SRX.

I've used Jaguars a number of times (against my will) and all I can say is NEVER AGAIN. They take up a ton of room, are prone to breaking (I had one that screeched at me), using CAN is practically impossible, and therefore it doesn't do much more than the Victor 888 or Spark.


Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveL (Post 1514264)
Would like to here from others on how they connect the Talon green and yellow CAN wires together. Vex sells a nice device but it's expensive and it takes up a lot of room.

Can you not just crimp or solder them (cue debate on crimping vs soldering)?

JPBlacksmiths 22-12-2015 21:11

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Ari423 (Post 1514265)
I've used Jaguars a number of times (against my will) and all I can say is NEVER AGAIN.

Ya my team also despises Jaguars

GeeTwo 22-12-2015 21:18

Re: Motor Controllers
 
At this point, I'd still have to consider the Talon SR my favorite, based on the number of motors and hours we have utilized them with zero mishaps. Spike relays would be second for the same reason (no mishaps, fewer hours, though you may not consider them a controller).

It didn't take much use of the Talon SR to send the Jaguars and Victors (a few each 884s and 888s) into our "unused parts" collection.

Being a bit of a "never buy serial number 1 of anything" guy, I have high hopes for most of the various controllers on this list, but none of them has become a favorite yet. I really like the features of the Talon SRX; if it proves to be robust it will probably top my list next year. The Victor SP, Spark, and SD 540 are all in a runoff to displace the obsolescent Talon SR, with cost, reliability, and limit switch capability as ranking factors to be determined. The Jaguar is my least favorite ever controller since becoming associated with FRC in 2012, squarely behind both the Victor 884s and 888s. Every one that the team ever owned has died a painful, stinky death. As much as we wanted to stop using them, we couldn't stop using these fast enough to get any of them out of use before it went up in smoke.

For the record: no vote cast, because my only solid decision among the controllers listed is not jaguar.
Edit:
Quote:

Originally Posted by Michael Blake (Post 1514281)
Wondering why Victor 884/888 was left out of voting yet Jaguar was included?

--Michael Blake

Ditto Talon SR.

Michael Blake 22-12-2015 21:26

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Wondering why Victor 884/888 was left out of voting yet Jaguar was included?

--Michael Blake

marshall 22-12-2015 21:49

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveL (Post 1514264)
Would like to here from others on how they connect the Talon green and yellow CAN wires together. Vex sells a nice device but it's expensive and it takes up a lot of room.

These JST-SM style connectors are a royal pain to crimp BUT are simply amazing for connecting the talons together:



They are locking. They are cheap. And they are small. Simply awesome.

Crimping guide here explains how to crimp them (and APPs as well): https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/GrinConnectorGuide.pdf

They are just small enough that they are a royal pain to crimp though.

EDIT: We got ours from here because I know someone will ask: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-...352919222.html

SoftwareBug2.0 22-12-2015 22:06

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Let's look at this logically:
-There's no reason for a Jaguar to be anyone's favorite
-Some people have chosen the Jaguar as their favorite

Therefore, there is there must be some fraction of people who are answering randomly. We'll assume that the people who choose randomly choose each option with equal probability.

-At this time we see 4/22 people have chosen "Jaguar" as their favorite.
-There are 5 different choices for the poll

Therefore 4/22*5 should give us the fraction of people who are choosing randomly. This comes out to approximately 90%.

QED :D

philso 22-12-2015 22:34

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Ari423 (Post 1514265)
Can you not just crimp or solder them (cue debate on crimping vs soldering)?

We used the 2-position "0.100" Latching Polarizing Connectors" from Hansen Hobbies for the CAN wires on the Talon SRX's last year and had zero problems throughout the competition season plus the 3 or 4 off-season events. The pins can be crimped with the same crimper used for the normal PWM cables. We also crimped Anderson connectors onto the input and output wires so that the whole motor controller can be swapped out quickly and easily (did not have to) or it can be re-used as is. Just be sure to do a pull-test immediately after each and every crimp and to have someone else inspect the work (and repeat the pull-test) to ensure it was all done correctly. We coiled up the excess wire and tied it up neatly using small cable ties. The connectors for the CAN connections were contained within the loop, guaranteeing that no physical strain is put on the connection.

http://hansenhobbies.com/products/co...nlpconnectors/
http://hansenhobbies.com/products/co.../pt1in_lp_1x2/

Alan Anderson 23-12-2015 09:56

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by marshall (Post 1514284)
Crimping guide here explains how to crimp them (and APPs as well): https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/GrinConnectorGuide.pdf
One quick trick with Anderson connectors: it is
possible to remove the pin from the housing and
also to re-insert the same pin back into the
housing.
Simply take a small flathead screwdriver and use
it to lift the hook of the Anderson pin up and away
from the ledge inside the housing.
You can then pull on the wire and remove the pin
from the housing.
Because of this process you may actually end up
bending the hook upwards and it will sometimes
stay that way. In order to then reuse the pin in a
housing you will need to gently bend the hook
down until it is inline with the barrel of the
housing.

Even before I saw the last paragraph about bending the hook, I knew the instructions for removing the pin were wrong. You shouldn't pry the pin up. You just need to push down the spring (referred to in the document as the "ledge") in order to release the pin and let it be pulled out. This is true for the small Anderson connectors and for the large SB50 battery connectors.

marshall 23-12-2015 10:02

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Alan Anderson (Post 1514382)
Even before I saw the last paragraph about bending the hook, I knew the instructions for removing the pin were wrong. You shouldn't pry the pin up. You just need to push down the spring (referred to in the document as the "ledge") in order to release the pin and let it be pulled out. This is true for the small Anderson connectors and for the large SB50 battery connectors.

Would agree with that but not my guide... I do think someone needs to create a similar guide for FRC's common connectors though.

MrForbes 23-12-2015 10:40

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by philso (Post 1514297)
We also crimped Anderson connectors onto the input and output wires so that the whole motor controller can be swapped out quickly and easily (did not have to) or it can be re-used as is

I wonder if the 2016 FRC rules will consider this a "FABRICATED ITEM" and disallow it's use, if it was terminated before kickoff?

So many fun things to consider....

FrankJ 23-12-2015 10:54

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by MrForbes (Post 1514389)
I wonder if the 2016 FRC rules will consider this a "FABRICATED ITEM" and disallow it's use, if it was terminated before kickoff?

The 2015 rules has a specific exception for wiring terminations to COTs devices. I would think the 2016 rules would have the same exception. We will see. As a robot inspector, this is not an area I would focus on unless told to anyway.

philso 23-12-2015 10:59

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by MrForbes (Post 1514389)
I wonder if the 2016 FRC rules will consider this a "FABRICATED ITEM" and disallow it's use, if it was terminated before kickoff?

So many fun things to consider....

It is always a risk when "future proofing" something. What you may have done one year may not be legal the next. At the very least, one can use these motor controllers on a practice robot with very little effort.

GeeTwo 23-12-2015 11:05

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by MrForbes (Post 1514389)
I wonder if the 2016 FRC rules will consider this a "FABRICATED ITEM" and disallow it's use, if it was terminated before kickoff?

So many fun things to consider....

It would have been allowed last year under R12c.
Quote:

Originally Posted by 2015 Game Manual
R12 Physical ROBOT elements created before kickoff are not permitted. Exceptions are:
  • A. OPERATOR CONSOLE,
  • B. battery assemblies per R4,
  • C. FABRICATED items consisting of one COTS electrical device (e.g. a motor or motor controller), connectors, and any materials used to secure and insulate those connectors

However, this exception was not included for the withholding allowance; if you wanted a pre-terminated controller as a spare part, it needed to be included in the withholding allowance.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2015 Game Manual
R17 At an Event, Teams may have access to a static set of FABRICATED ITEMS, not bagged per R14, known as the WITHHOLDING ALLOWANCE, that shall not exceed 30 lbs. to be used to repair and/or upgrade their ROBOT. The WITHHOLDING ALLOWANCE may only be brought into the Venue when the Team initially loads in at the Event. Items made at an Event do not count towards this weight limit.
For Teams attending 2-Day Events, these FABRICATED ITEMS may be used during the Robot Access Period and/or brought to the Event, but the total weight may not exceed 30 lbs. FABRICATED ITEMS constructed during the Robot Access Period and bagged with the ROBOT are exempt from this limit.
Items exempt from this limit are:
  • A. the OPERATOR CONSOLE,
  • B. any ROBOT battery assemblies (as described in R4).


FrankJ 23-12-2015 11:11

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Talon SRX are my favorite. Unless you need the advanced features of the Talon the Victor SP makes more economic sense. I will wait to pass judgement on the new 2016 controllers when they prove their durability.

Other than size the jaguars don't deserve their bad reputation. We found them reliable when connected correct and not filled with metal shavings. :]

aldaeron 23-12-2015 11:21

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by JPBlacksmiths (Post 1514261)
So this is a question that I have had for a few years now, and never really gotten a good answer to it:

Which motor controller is the best for which situation? Meaning is there specific applications were one controller is better then the other, or is there just one motor controller which is the best, period?

This question has resurfaced for me especially with the creation of the new motor controllers such as the spark.

Thanks,
JP
Co-Captain Team 806


Getting back on topic to answer OP's questions...

As with most things in engineering design, the answer here is "it depends". In my mind there are three key features to look at: cost, capability and reliability. I am only going to focus on the controllers you can buy going forward (Talon SRX, Victor SP, REV Spark, MS SD540). Since you can't get spares for other controllers easily I would stay away from or use them sparingly (and with LOTS of spares ready just in case).

Talon SRX at $90 is the most capable, but also the most expensive.

Capability: Talon SRX allow use of a Controller Area Network (CAN) bus. The other option is Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). With a bus you get two way communication between controllers and the RoboRio.

Also, the Talon SRX has an input data port that allows you to do some routine control calculations directly on the controller instead of using the RoboRio. You can hookup small breakout boards to the data port and do a number of control loops. Some examples are that you can hookup an encoder to a shaft and thru the data port and tell the motor controller to drive forward until the encoder has reached 1000 ticks and then stop. Another example is that you can tell the motor controller to drive forward until the upper limit switch on your elevator is tripped and then stop. With PWM the RoboRio has to check all these sensors and issue the commands to stop. Since the RoboRio is doing a lot of calculations it may be slower to respond (by some number of milliseconds) to when the switch is tripped on your elevator. The Talon SRX offloads these mundane control calculations from the RoboRio.

Cost: You pay for all these nice features (CAN bus chip, extra connector for data port inputs). Over a whole bot this extra cost can add up.

Reliability: Last season the Talon SRX performed well with few (if any) failures. Since there was no defense and therefore few long duration high current pushing matches, there could be an argument made that some more testing is needed under these extreme conditions. Most people would agree it is a solid and FRC tested design. It also has a very small foot print and a sealed aluminum enclosure. This prevents debris from getting in and shorting out electrical components (a problem with older controllers). Aluminum is a great heat conductor and allows the heat generated by the controller to be moved away from the electronic chips without the need for a separate fan.



Victor SP at $60 is a robust, but basic controller.

Capability: Talon SP is a simple Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) driven controller. No fancy data inputs, just the ability to set the speed between 0 and 100%.

Cost: You pay for a smaller form factor and an aluminum case. More expensive than other PWM controllers and does not have data inputs.

Reliability: Same as Talon SRX. Most would agree it is a proven, dependable controller for FRC.


REV Spark at $45 is a new low cost controller with some nice looking features.

Capability: REV Spark is a simple Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) driven controller. You can set the speed between 0 and 100%. It also has a basic input data port that will allow you to directly wire in a set of limit switches to stop it. These limit switches are great for an elevator or a rotary arm with a top/bottom limit switch. No fancy encoder or other control capabilities. Pretty impressive for such a low cost device.

Cost: Cheapest one on the market for FRC right now.

Reliability: This is brand new this year. Preliminary test data looks positive. It has a plastic case, which will not transfer heat as well as aluminum. It claims not to need fan cooling, which is being tested in lab conditions (I believe results release soon). Obviously the real test is to see it during the season. Be cautious about switching to a new controller with limited testing unless you can afford to replace the controllers. It is a bit larger than the Victor SP and Talon SRX. For the price it looks promising.


MS SD540 at $50 is a new low cost controller with some nice looking features.

The SD540 implements many of the same features that the REV Spark does, albeit in a different layout. There are some concerns about the design choices made for the SD540 that are detailed in another thread. Same overall story - low cost plastic body controller with PWM input and limit switch control build in. Untested.



Hope that helps. PM me for more detail (I glossed some of the nitty gritty details)

-matto-

GreyingJay 23-12-2015 11:22

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by GeeTwo (Post 1514396)
However, this exception was not included for the withholding allowance; if you wanted a pre-terminated controller as a spare part, it needed to be included in the withholding allowance.

I wonder why they made that distinction. Is it too much of an advantage to have a drop-in replacement motor or controller ready to go?

I could see the first task for a student in the pit being to crimp some connectors onto a set of spare motors and controllers, ready to go.

In fact... *writes that down*

As for the poll, I voted for Talon SRX since it seems to offer quite a lot of potential advantages for the fairly minimal extra cost. Virtually every one of our robot failures last year, both on our practice field and unfortunately during our first regional, was some combination of our software addressing the incorrect PWM or DIO, the encoder wired incorrectly, read incorrectly, software values set/reset incorrectly, motors trying to run the forklift past the edge (e.g. we didn't have time to wire in a hard limit switch), etc. If we thought to use the limit switch and encoder functionality in the Talon SRX, and communicate over CAN instead of PWMs and DIOs, our code (and failure modes) could have been much simpler.

JPBlacksmiths 26-12-2015 17:14

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Michael Blake (Post 1514281)
Wondering why Victor 884/888 was left out of voting yet Jaguar was included?

--Michael Blake

simply because this is all of the current motor controllers, nothing as far as I know has been made to replace the jaguar.

Ari423 26-12-2015 17:57

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by JPBlacksmiths (Post 1514742)
simply because this is all of the current motor controllers, nothing as far as I know has been made to replace the jaguar.

Though they don't have the same name (because they're made by different companies IIRC) the Talon SRX effectively replaces the Jaguar. It does the same PID control, limit switches, etc with better CAN support. I wouldn't buy Jaguars new even if they still were for sale.

GeeTwo 26-12-2015 18:14

Re: Motor Controllers
 
:(
Quote:

Originally Posted by SoftwareBug2.0 (Post 1514285)
There's no reason for a Jaguar to be anyone's favorite

Jaguar is my least favorite, but I couldn't let that challenge pass. I came up with three reasons for Jag to be someone's favorite (I left out nostalgia and thinks like being the biggest, heaviest, and having the smallest continuous current capability, and having a nonstandard PWM response):
  • Supply Voltage: works down to 5.5V and up to 30V, Tied for first best at both ends with SPARK.
  • Aesthetics: The jaguar case is a work of art compared to the boxes with fans (Victor 884 and 888) and the boxes without fans (the others).
  • You can control a Jaguar with RS-232. I can contrive of a few applications where this would be useful, like controlling from an old PC.

Edit:
Quote:

Originally Posted by MrBasse (Post 1514785)
Don't forget the fact that the flames that poured out of Jags were very entertaining for the kids!

Now I feel cheated; I've smelled and seen plenty of blue smoke, but never seen flames:( ;) .

techhelpbb 26-12-2015 19:02

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by GeeTwo (Post 1514751)
  • You can control a Jaguar with RS-232. I can contrive of a few applications where this would be useful, like controlling from an old PC.

PWM from parallel port and they all can be controlled by an old PC ;)

I am waiting for the single IC speed control module. It is coming. Just a chip with bolts on the top like an IGBT and an electrically isolated metal plate on the bottom.

GeeTwo 26-12-2015 20:02

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by techhelpbb (Post 1514754)
PWM from parallel port and they all can be controlled by an old PC ;)

I'd never heard of this, and a bit of web searches about the old centronics port leads me to think that the PC-side hardware was not made to support PWM; whether it would be possible to hack it with a tight loop that shut down the PC for any other purposes is probably hardware dependent. Has someone actually done this (using passive components, which was my meaning)?

Quote:

Originally Posted by techhelpbb (Post 1514754)
I am waiting for the single IC speed control module. It is coming. Just a chip with bolts on the top like an IGBT and an electrically isolated metal plate on the bottom.

Heat dissipation is a big issue here, unless you're talking about replacing the spike rather than a speed controller. The amount of electrical isolation demanded by FIRST is also a steep challenge. I expect brush-less motors and controllers to be FRC legal before single-chip brushed motor speed controllers. I'm not holding my breath on either one.

MrBasse 26-12-2015 21:57

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by GeeTwo (Post 1514751)
Jaguar is my least favorite, but I couldn't let that challenge pass. I came up with three reasons for Jag to be someone's favorite (I left out nostalgia and thinks like being the biggest, heaviest, and having the smallest continuous current capability, and having a nonstandard PWM response):
  • Supply Voltage: works down to 5.5V and up to 30V, Tied for first best at both ends with SPARK.
  • Aesthetics: The jaguar case is a work of art compared to the boxes with fans (Victor 884 and 888) and the boxes without fans (the others).
  • You can control a Jaguar with RS-232. I can contrive of a few applications where this would be useful, like controlling from an old PC.

Don't forget the fact that the flames that poured out of Jags were very entertaining for the kids!

techhelpbb 27-12-2015 00:40

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by GeeTwo (Post 1514773)
I'd never heard of this, and a bit of web searches about the old centronics port leads me to think that the PC-side hardware was not made to support PWM; whether it would be possible to hack it with a tight loop that shut down the PC for any other purposes is probably hardware dependent. Has someone actually done this (using passive components, which was my meaning)?

Ether did PWM 'bit banging' of the handshake wires on a serial port:

http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/sh...52&postcount=1

I used to play .mod MIDI files on a parallel port justing just a resistor ladder and a capacitor to couple still have that stuff somewhere and that was on a Intel 80386 DX 16MHz. That's complex analog audio at up to 15kHz. So yes I am sure if I sat there with some C code I could control several FRC PWM speed control on FreeDOS. I would not attempt this in on any Windows NT kernel because you need a kernel mode driver. It is likely possible on BSD/Linux.

DOS runs in real mode. You will not block the timer interrupts or other interrupts doing this. I used to run this silly trick even with EMM386 running and Windows 3.11.

HighTreason take it away old school...
https://youtu.be/4KUdBgg8Oe4

Then again....I still maintain Commodore 64 code I wrote....so I am pretty dusty.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GeeTwo (Post 1514773)
Heat dissipation is a big issue here, unless you're talking about replacing the spike rather than a speed controller. The amount of electrical isolation demanded by FIRST is also a steep challenge. I expect brush-less motors and controllers to be FRC legal before single-chip brushed motor speed controllers. I'm not holding my breath on either one.

The heat dissipation of any single part in an FRC robot is no where near the heat dissipation of the big IGBT we used to charge Navy submarine batteries with this big charger we built. The base of the integrated package is metal and you torque the package to the heatsink plate with either a coupling patch or compound. One of my cohorts left a databook on a board during a test...let's just say we will not read that databook again ;).

The issue is merely distributing the heat away from the parts that get hot. Either make them more efficient or make the removal of heat more efficient. Same reason we could fill power supplies up with canola oil....as long as you do not let the pressure build or reach the flash point it will not conduct but it will make the heat distribute around (do not try at home kids). That silly trick allowed almost double the wattage from a power supply. By the way - TDI in Hackettstown, NJ was selling a design like this actively before AstroDyne bought them.

There was a time when people argued no FRC speed control would last without a fan either. Power MOSFETs keep getting better and better. Lower the switching losses and on state resistance enough and the heat dissipation will follow. Just please do not do it with silver in the semiconductor die (let's just say it makes the power semiconductors go bad eventually and leave it there).

GeeTwo 27-12-2015 01:21

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by techhelpbb (Post 1514804)
Ether did PWM 'bit banging' of the handshake wires on a serial port.....

I'll accept your word and Ether's.

Quote:

Originally Posted by techhelpbb (Post 1514804)
The heat dissipation of any single part in an FRC robot...

I think you made my point better than I did.

techhelpbb 27-12-2015 01:34

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by GeeTwo (Post 1514807)
I think you made my point better than I did.

The actual problem is not actually the heat:
It is the whether doing that tight integration is financially workable given the market.

A massive power transistor has a much wider market than FRC and a much higher price point.

However with all the interest in drones and places like SuperDroidRobotics selling kits that are FRC size like for plows and snowblowers...the market is growing.

I suspect back in the day when audio receivers were individual power transistors many people also thought they would not be surpassed by integrated modules. Odds are if you tear down a retail home reciever you find modules in plenty of them.

BenGuy 27-12-2015 10:41

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by JPBlacksmiths (Post 1514261)
So this is a question that I have had for a few years now, and never really gotten a good answer to it:

Which motor controller is the best for which situation? Meaning is there specific applications were one controller is better then the other, or is there just one motor controller which is the best, period?

This question has resurfaced for me especially with the creation of the new motor controllers such as the spark.

Thanks,
JP
Co-Captain Team 806

Well the new Talon SRX is best if you can take advantage of what it offers over the Victor SP which is control by CAN and direct sensor feedback (encoders). This is why it costs more. If you can't take advantage of that then the Victor SP is better because it is cheaper and offers the same size advantages as the SRX. Hope that helps.

Also, Jag - ewww - don't use that...

electroken 28-12-2015 09:00

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by aldaeron (Post 1514404)
REV Spark at $45 is a new low cost controller with some nice looking features.

Reliability: This is brand new this year. Preliminary test data looks positive. It has a plastic case, which will not transfer heat as well as aluminum. It claims not to need fan cooling, which is being tested in lab conditions (I believe results release soon). Obviously the real test is to see it during the season. Be cautious about switching to a new controller with limited testing unless you can afford to replace the controllers. It is a bit larger than the Victor SP and Talon SRX. For the price it looks promising.

Part of my own evaluation of the SPARK was having a look inside. While much of the case is plastic, the SPARK label in the center is covering a heavy c-channel shaped slug of aluminum with heat transfer pads to encourage cooling of the 4 MOSFETs and 3 electrolytic capacitors under it. My gut feel (with nothing but experience to back it up) tells me this device will survive a 2-minute pushing match just fine.

The footprint is close, but not identical to that of the Talon SR.

evanperryg 28-12-2015 11:38

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveL (Post 1514264)
Would like to here from others on how they connect the Talon green and yellow CAN wires together. Vex sells a nice device but it's expensive and it takes up a lot of room.

Check these out.
We used these last season. They're toolless, and we've never had a problem with them falling off or breaking. They're designed for larger wires than the CAN wires, but they still work fine. They're a little bulky, but not big enough to cause problems.

aldaeron 28-12-2015 15:40

Re: Motor Controllers
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by electroken (Post 1514993)
Part of my own evaluation of the SPARK was having a look inside. While much of the case is plastic, the SPARK label in the center is covering a heavy c-channel shaped slug of aluminum with heat transfer pads to encourage cooling of the 4 MOSFETs and 3 electrolytic capacitors under it. My gut feel (with nothing but experience to back it up) tells me this device will survive a 2-minute pushing match just fine.

The footprint is close, but not identical to that of the Talon SR.

I don't have one to look at, but what I said is still true based on what you are describing. The internal aluminum heatsink will draw heat away from the components, which is helpful, but you need to look at the path the heat takes after that. In the case of the REV spark, this means conduction through a plastic case of some thickness then out to whatever the controller is mounted to. Compared with the aluminum body of the Victor/Talon that does not have this additional layer of restriction. Keep in mind that plastics have Thermal Conductivity of <1 W/mK compared with Aluminum that has Thermal Conductivity of 200 W/mK. While it is true the footprint sizes are different, my guess is that this will not have a large effect, especially if there is no thermal paste/pad between the aluminum heatsink and the plastic case.

For effective thermal management I like mounting the controllers to a hefty aluminum frame member or sheet metal belly pan of decent thickness. Wood or plastic or heavily pocketed aluminum belly pans limit the ability to conduct heat away from the mounting location.

Perhaps the REV will be fine for most situations, but what I said is still true - the Victor/Talon will be better because there is no plastic in the thermal conduction path. I believe REV is planning to release test data soon. Hopefully they will instrument down to the package level or heatsink right next to the MOSFET case and will provide ThetaJC values for the devices. The junction temperature is what is key for long term performance and reliability.

It really depends on current draw of the motors and efficiency of the controllers during matches as to how much heat you really need to dump. But keep in mind that in a Best-of-3 Finals match that you do not have as much time to cool off as during a normal match. It can be a problem.

TL DR: REV may be fine, but Victor/Talon will be better for dumping heat.

-matto-

electroken 28-12-2015 16:29

Re: Motor Controllers
 
I'm not questioning any thing you've said, and I fully understand that the slug of aluminum only buys time, and in the end the vast majority of heat must be radiated to the environment through the 1.5-ish square inches of aluminum exposed to the air.

Having spent some time within the Talon SR and the Spark, it is my opinion that teams familiar with the Talon SR will see similar results from the Spark.


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