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pic: Tube-Based Hex Chassis
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Re: pic: Tube-Based Hex Chassis
If you want to go all in with a hexagonal frame perimeter, you could flip your corner wheels to the inside of your rails. This would let you spread your rails out further, increasing your wheelbase and giving you more room on top.
I played with the idea in this thread, but I think it could be even more effective with chain-in-tube. |
Re: pic: Tube-Based Hex Chassis
What are the dimensions of the frame without the extra tubing?
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Re: pic: Tube-Based Hex Chassis
Flipping the outer wheels to the inside of the chassis has been suggested but it does make your footprint nice. You also might as well make the center wheel super wide (3"?) to take advantage of the neat effect roughtop tread has on traction when you have a small, wide wheel.
As for your belly pan, I would leave a bit of a web / perimeter around the inside of the chassis instead of starting the lightening pattern immediately after the tube "ends". Maybe it's just aesthetics, but I think it's a smidge stronger that way. I would also use more smaller cutouts rather than the big wide cutouts so that the belly pan is a fair bit stiffer. You can probably get away with 16 wall tubing for all of the bumper supports, which is a lot stronger than lightened 1/8" wall tubing and lighter than most lightening patterns in 1/8". |
Re: pic: Tube-Based Hex Chassis
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Re: pic: Tube-Based Hex Chassis
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Honestly, it doesn't seem any more difficult than a rectangular drivetrain. I may have convinced myself to build one of these this year if it's right for the game. |
Re: pic: Tube-Based Hex Chassis
If this is going to be your frame for this season, i recommend keeping the tubes with the wheels open on each end. Assuming youre doing a chain-in-drive system, the open ends make it easier to access the sprockets for maintenance.
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