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pic: Shooter damaged a Boulder
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The ghosts of Rebound Rumble have returned...
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What tread were you using on the plaction wheels? I'd avoid roughtop and go for a smoother tread.
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Who'd have thought having a fast moving rough piece of plastic pressed up against a thin plastic coating on a foam ball would do damage?!? :p
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After playing with the ball for a few minutes, I have very little interest in trying to shoot it using a spinning wheel. It's not that type of ball.
However, building a medieval siege engine (catapult) looks like a neat plan! |
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IMO, the million dollar question: does the puncture in the outer layer change its squishiness and/or how quickly it returns? It seems like the squishiness is at least partly driven by forcing air in and out through the one little hole in the jacket/coating... I'd think more puncture holes could dramatically change that (and thus how it shoots/flies... particularly in a flywheel/compression shooter).
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One thing about using a shooter is that it kind of tears up balls, which is the subject of this thread...and the balls cost a lot. I don't think our team can afford to test and tune a shooter this year!
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We've run a ball through a shooter prototype around 10-15 times with no damage at a few different compression setting. I strongly suggest using a wheel with a smooth surface (Colson, Stealth, etc) if working on a flywheel type shooter.
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Are you gently pushing the ball towards the spinning wheels and allowing them to grab the ball or are you vigorously pushing the ball into the space between the spinning wheels?
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The GreenHorns' wheeled shooter is at the point where we aren't tearing up the ball anymore (initial tests were brutal on that ball!) Thanks to Andymark for the donated game piece!!! Now that it's tuned we're throwing about 15-20 feet and it's very accurate. Our current game piece is beat to heck and the flight path hasn't changed since all the little nicks and cuts developed. We have a new ball and an old ball and they fly the same.
Don't be afraid of wheeled shooters this year. The 1114 style articulating arm is going to be gold this year (it is almost every year...). |
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Thanks for the report!
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Our team has found that the signature Vex "Colson Performa" (The smooth grey ones) wheels dont tear up the ball without sacrificing initial performance
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The boulders do compress and take some time to return to full size. Any thoughts on compressing in robot to make a smaller "object" to get into the tower opening?
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I have managed to find to different places where you can get the balls from. Here are the links.
http://www.andymark.com/FRC16-p/am-3276.htm http://www.gophersport.com/pe/premiu...oam-dodgeballs Hope this helps. |
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Well...
BALLISTA FOR THE WIN Maybe. Anyways, had to stop a rookie from picking at the skin of our boulder... It seems heavier than it looks. |
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Is that a significant factor in damaging/shooting the Boulder? After all, the robot would be pushing the ball into the shooter with some amount of force anyhow. Quote:
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What is the 1114 style articulating arm? A quick google search yields this thread.:confused: |
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Simbot SS, 1114's robot in 2008 inspired their 2014 Robot. |
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I'm more impressed that you actually have a shooter. Or maybe my team is just a bit slow off the mark.
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The More You Know! /wavehandfromlefttoright |
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Not so basic. They had a lot of criteria to hold. |
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Some new testing with our wheeled shooter for the GreenHorns showed some great results. We started playing basketball with one of our boulders around 3 AM (used the tower for our hoop... hopefully robots will be more accurate than me...)while waiting for the programmers and it got pretty beat up. When they were finally finished we set our robot up in an orientation that it was making 100% of its shots with that beat up ball. Next we introduced an untouched ball to the shooter and it was still successful.
The tests tell me that wheeled shooters aren't terribly affected by wear on the boulder. For reference we were shooting from about 7-10 feet away from the tower. |
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We have already tried both a wheeled shooter and catapult prototype design with the option to change certain variables.
Compression on a wheeled shooter seemed optimal at 3" compression. We tested 2" also with poor results. We also used direct drive CIMs on an older AM wheel similar in texture to the stealth wheel. We didnt even bother trying the plaction wheels because our goal isnt to create a shredder.:p Shooters and catapults have already been built by many teams and there are a ton of old video clips from previous seasons. IMO, building either is the trivial part. |
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https://www.instagram.com/p/BAdNlxTj...y=team293spike |
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In addition, keep close mind of how you are powering the catapult. If you are using motors, it will be inaccurate unless you are accounting for battery voltages, motor speeds, etc. If you are using some type of spring, get a fish scale so you can measure the spring tension and make sure it is consistent. Also insure you are shooting from a hard stop to another hard stop on the motion so that the catapult follows a proscribed motion each time. People with wheels need to worry about slip, moment of inertia, and wheel velocity and how the ball is introduced to the shooter. Catapults just offer different challenges. |
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We just received two Rhinoskin balls.
Both measured the same diameter as our KOP ball +about 1/16th". ![]() In addition to measuring their diameter, we compared their compress-ability to both a new KOP ball and the well used one in the image. We placed a 13.875 LB battery on the ball and measured it's compressed height. Used KOP boulder = 8.25" New RhinoSkin = 8.5" New KOP boulder = 8.675" So, all in all, they appear to be a good match. That said. actually shooting them will be the real test! |
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We put a small tear in the skin not by the spinning wheels but by hitting a corner inside the tower. We have since put a stop (piece of lexan) in the tower to stop the boulder and roll it back.
We are using 4" plaction wheels spinning at 2950RPM and have only minor scuffing on the skin. We are compressing the boulder 2" and are able to hit the high goal consistently (19 for 20) sitting on the outer works. |
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How are you controlling the 2950RPM? |
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We aren't really controlling it. Using a Banebot RS775 with a 3:1 transmission. Running at full power our tach shows a constant 2950 +- 15RPM. No encoders installed. The shooter is a prototype but it shows a lot of promise.
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But you say the motor is spinning at only 2950*3 = 8850 rpm with a fully charged battery. 8850 rpm is only 68% of free speed. Of course the motor speed will be less than its free speed, but 68% is quite a bit less. Some rough calculations indicate the motor would be drawing in the neighborhood of 30 amps. Can you measure the amps the motor is drawing to confirm this? Quote:
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We are running 4" stealth wheels that are connected 1:1 onto mini cims. The only time we damaged the ball was when we were testing, and somebody forgot to reverse the left motor. This made both motors spin the same direction. It made two small gashes in the ball but it's still usable. We have another ball we bought, but we don't want to use it until we get the final version of our shooter made. Has anybody noticed a difference in performance in a wheeled shooter from a new ball compared to an old vall? And does anybody know how often they will switch balls out in the game?
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That's why it's important to test your prototype to see how much the correct angle is affected by voltage. If the effect is enough to be a concern, you will want to design your shooter to operate at a lower voltage (say 9 volts) and then used a closed-loop controller (PID, bang-bang, Take-Back-Half, etc) to hold the wheel speed constant as the battery gets weaker. |
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Did you mean to say 1:2 ? If so, you might want to instead consider increasing your wheel diameter by 50% and reducing your motor speed appropriately. |
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I also had made a prototype that resulted in this. I used a 4 inch hi-grip wheel. Only shot it about 10 times and it is covered in bruises. We named the ball Ricardo, so out little Ricardo was in a little bit of pain.::ouch::
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