Re: Chassis
 

Unless you effect it chemically. In 2001 my HS team had forklifts made out of 1/4" lexan. We spray-painted them so that the drivers could easily see them from the booth. Late in the day at Long Island, we had a minor collision with 263 (they blasted right into us coming into the endzone) and the forklifts shattered.
Near as we can figure, the Lexan was weakened by the spray paint.

Moral of the story:
Don't paint Lexan. It can weaken it greatly.

That is a very good point to not paint lexan. Generally plastics dose not like to be sprayed with solvents(which spray paint is). They tend to weaken them by eating little holes in them. Thus, as you know, they become weak and brittle. 1/4" Lexan is about the weakest lexan you can find. The lexan used in the demo was most likly of 3/4" to 1" thick lexan.

Re: Re: Chassis
 

Are you sure this was Lexan? I have never heard of Lexan shattering, but acrylic would do exactly what you say. Certainly spray painting could have surface effects but by the molecular nature of polycarbonate I don't see how it could shatter, even if the surfaces are eaten away a little.

First of all I don't see why you'd ever want to spray paint lexan as it's crystal clearness is beautiful as it is. Perhaps a custom airbrush job but I'll save that topic for another thread.

As for the lexan shattering, this is completely reasonable given the circumstances. The spraypaint acts as a solvent and attacks the lexan making it brittle. Pactra and Parma both make paints safe for lexan. They can be found at your local hobby shop. Here's the link for the Parma paint http://www.parmapse.com/faskolor.asp

Re: Re: Re: Chassis
 

Positive. It was the real stuff. It took quite the hit to break it, but still.

We painted our Lexan panels last year. That's how we got the black color. We dented it a little, but it never broke (and it took some big hits, too).

The lexan that was spray painted and shattered was 1/4" thick this is important. Lets say that the paint eat away at the 1/16" deep(very conservative estimate) on all painted sides that leaves 1/8" of untainted material left to hold up to an impact. since the imapct was on there goal grabber forklift and it most likly was nt supported except on the end and it was probably over 10" long that leaves an 1/8" thick 10" long piece of unsupported lexan collideing on edge with an unforgiving piece of metal(most likly). Shattering sounds like the logical solution.

If you want to make your forklift visible I would have used a bright shinging tape. Like a neon yellow tape or what ever would match your bots color scheme.

Here is a pretty good website w/ Metric and English properties of polycarbonate (aka lexan).

http://www.matweb.com/SpecificMateri...&group=General

This was the solution we came up with for Nationals. :D

Titanium?
 

We'd love to use all Ti plate and tube, but C & A might balk at the materials bill! So instead we've used the 1.5 x 1.5 extrusion in the past. There is a considerable weight penalty once you add all the hardware to put the frames together. I like how the Huskie Brigade designed this years bot. Using the shape of the Huskie as the primary structure. I also likes the Killer Bees chasis. Standing .156 plate on edge, connecting the plate with tube is strong and light. And as their leader says "some chasis flex helps keep the wheels on the floor.." Working with sheetmatal most of the time, I appreciate Wildstang's bot as work of art. It is amazing how strong thin sheets of aluminum become once you start putting bends and beads in them. The benfit of the extrusion is the rapid build and ease of maintenance once the bot is together. The trick now, is to use the modular concept for ease of assembly and modification, making the components durable enough for the application, but light as possible....I still want an all Ti bot....:D

The only sheet metal chasis?
 

.09" Sheet metal, oh yeah.

Aluminum Extrusion in Kit
 

We plan to use some of the aluminum extrusion in the kit this year. Has anyone found a marking on the box extrusion or a spec for the exact alloy of aluminum used. We need this for a compatible weld material.
Thanks

We (60) use 1"x2" & 2"x2" 1/8 wall 6061 Aluminum tubing
(good weld-ability / good working) with a lexsan floor pan/side panels for the main frame
alum tubing / plate for components
6061--- yield strength is 40 ksi hardness is 95 brinell
melting range is 1080f to 1205f
also heat treatable (let cool Slowly or crystallizing may occur)
SEE statement below

Shhhhh... everyone keep this a secret, we use sheet metal .090 thick! But i'm not gonna tell you how we do it!
We have wanted to build a full sheet metal frame using 6061-t4 aluminum. We felt we could achieve a better strength to weight ratio.

I'm really interested in seeing what sorts of results you all have with the sheet metal.

We're using .19" sheet metal for our frame, with some beefier stuff mixed in here and there. I was a little scared of going thinner than that. We'll see how it shapes up in a few weeks, I guess.

Good luck.