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Re: What COTS parts would you like to see?
It seems like that would be much more expensive than just making a lightened steel one, however I can't comment on the strength.
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Motor question, are the RS 775 and RS 550 standard motor sizes? If so how are they measured?
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Basically the polulu board is a simple digital switch (think of it like a spike without the ability to reverse the voltage polarity), controlled by a PWM signal. The linked one above is 3A but they also have higher current ones. The wiring diagram shows how to wire it up. Load is LED strip, source is either 5V or 12V (depending on LED strip voltage) from VRM. The PWM comes from a PWM output on the roborio. You do need 5V in from somewhere too; if you're using 5V LEDs or a PWM from a MXP board you can get 5V from that connection, or you can get it from the VRM or RoboRIO DIO. I think we used the Talon class in software to control the PWM output--set(0) turned the LEDs off, set(1) turned them on. Easy enough to do das blinkenlights from there with software timing. |
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Sure, it's just a relay... but a lot of things don't require variable control and in the real world relays are used all over the place (automotive, etc.). Now, they've become so forgotten that everybody (to quote a professor I know) "uses a helicopter to cross the street" by using Victors and the like for things that really don't need one. I did note that spikes are listed as discontinued on VEX's site but that may not be news (not affiliated with a team, so I don't keep up with that much). Perhaps even solid state relay options? While not exactly a huge benifit it's modern technology and if anything part of the control system goal is exposure to modern technology (adoption of CAN bus comes to mind). |
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I think it was a little late last year when I voiced a hope for inverse mounted CIM gearboxes (like http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=140713) as a COTS item; maybe this year the Wizards at WCP will bring one to market. I'd also love to see the Raw Box made more like Joey Milia's original version; my team would probably keep several sets of that box in stock, it seems like one of the better designs I've ever seen.
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I want a CAN plug-in vision aiming module
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I want a module that has the programming built in to actually run the wheels and drive forward/back for the best distance. Or for a turret, to aim azimuth and elevation. And it would ideally have a 'learning' mode where you'd manually make shots and it would recognize where the aim was to duplicate it. Quote:
Our robot has had a camera and encoders on it every year, necessary for any autonomous. Quote:
On the flip side, if every team has automated aiming and shooting, it may make amazing robots but less fun of a game. |
Re: What COTS parts would you like to see?
I think a gear similar to this would be great. I'd make a simple change though to make it easier to manufacture and therefore (hopefully) cheaper. The gear would be entirely steel, and just case-harden the area you have labeled as steel. Keep a small bore through the center for people who want to use small diameter shafts, but by only case hardening around the outside, it leaves the center area machinable. That way you could use whatever profile you wanted in the center without having to worry about sacrificing structural integrity of the gear. Ofc I'd like to see an option for 1/2" hex bore as well for the teams that don't have a broach or a press large enough to accomodate.
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A bigger version of the versaplanetary.
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Some of these are (unmet) repeats from my 2015 wishlist:
I'll probably come up with more... |
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I have mentioned this before but I would love a VP output stage with a female 1/2" hex coupler.
Also more small usable motors would be great. Stuff in the RS-550 size. Said this earlier but an electric solenoid and coupler for shifting with no pneumatics would be epic. |
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Vex and only sell so many variants of their products w/o losing money due to the increased difficulty of inventory forecasting. |
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Now making your own female hex coupler, not very hard. |
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In regards to your ½ hex socket. Couldn’t you just cut down the length of the ½ hex output shaft to say ½ inch in length then make a single piece coupler say a 20mm aluminium round aluminium rod with a ½ inch hole in it and then hex broached. Then just attach it to the cut down output shaft with a set-screw |
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While a good high torque servo for FRC applications would be very welcome, especially one with its own encoder, what I would rather have is a new transmission designed specifically for window motors (all of them), windshield wiper motors, door motors, rear window motors, etc. A transmission of this type should be capable of interfacing with gear, square, or module 2. It should be capable of direct drive config, round or Hex Output Shaft and have the ability to mount an encoder (potentiometer) to it. There is an advantage to these kinds of motors if they are legal. There are lots of different types, some are very inexpensive, some are self braking, and you can get them at just about any corner auto parts store. The problem is there is no standard means of connection them. If it was as simplement as 3 screws to mount or replace more people would use them. And some of the currently legal ones are crazy powerful. But it can take an entire build season to figure out a way to mount and connect one. I'm not sure why they are considered flimsy though. Maybe they weren't mounted correctly? |
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We eventually settled upon the theory that the C ring holding the shaft in place had become worn or weakened. We replaced the ring with one from a soare VP case when putting it back together and it went for another 2.5 events. It was frustrating knowing that it could do that. For a case that disassembles so easily just didn't make sense that a better design that prevented that from happening could not have been used. But like others, I agree that the output end to the VP gearbox is severely underutilized from a design and function perspective. There is a lot of potential there. Longer shafts, angled output, greater variability of shaft lengths, etc. I could even imagine a U transfer case directing the output back towards the motor for space critical uses. |
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One more thing I thought of: A VP 1:1 stage. Yeah I know you can directly hook the gearbox up to achieve this, but I'm talking about something you can drop in to replace an existing stage. Sometimes you go from 2 reductions to 1 reduction, but you want to use the same mounting holes, and a 1:1 spacer stage would be good for this. Using an encoder stage for this gets pricey. :)
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BTW, the single stage 1:1 is a great idea. We ran into the same issue needing to refab the mount in order to convert from 1:1 to 4: 1. The same thought occurred to me. Why wasnt there an internal extension to enable 1:1 in a single stage case. |
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Some offseason designs, and our limited in house capabilities leave us wishing for 1/2" hex stock with a pilot bore (aka Thunderhex minus the rounded corners).
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The problem was not strictly with the thunderhex shaft, but in that particular application, using regular hex shaft would have possibly not worn out the plastic hubs (or at least would have delayed the problem). |
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Basically a plastic version of this: http://www.competitionrobotparts.com...oller-end-cap/ with a 1.125" OD.
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It looks like the broken gear has about 1/8" from the outside of the tooth to the undercut with about a 1/16" chamfer. I also want Vex steel gears in 3/8" and 1/2" hex bores, 30 teeth and smaller. We like to make the smaller gear steel and the larger gear aluminum. Aluminum on aluminum tends to wear out prematurely. Especially for the practice robot that gets much higher wear than the comp bot. Quote:
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there is actually a decent amount of material under the teeth based on what we've had work in the past. |
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Not sure if was mentioned before but:
-2" omni and meccanum wheels, those are quite hard to find -custom 971's-like roborio connections board -more bevel gears |
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We rolled the RW640s in 2015 for sideways motion initially. Didn't quite work out in that application (too slick). But 118 likes to use them for other applications. Check out the transwheels as well for light loading http://store.kornylak.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=3 |
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Didn't know it is being sold, greath news :P
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https://electricscooterparts.com/discbrakes.html I learned that BRK-512 works with BRK-480L and has a hole pattern that is close enough to work with the AM 1.875in hole pattern with number 10s. |
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We actually just used a sprocket as the disk without problems. |
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![]() -Brando |
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I'm about 99% sure we purchased this kit from Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Signswise-Mou...rds=disc+brake Came with 2 disc brakes and 2 caliper kits. Great for a practice bot and competition bot setup. The hole pattern was close enough to get 3 or 4 bolts aligned to mount a 1/2" hex hub. We used a small pneumatic actuator to pull the caliper's brake cable, worked great. You can see a video of it here. |
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Heh.. ironically this was an happy accident. As I did not buy these parts for FRC but for a gokart I race at makerfaires (us mentors gotta have something to build in the off season). And I used AM tires for the front, and realized that everything lined up nicely so it saved me the trouble of making an adapter hub. You can also make your own disks to if you have basic milling abilities, take piece of .09 flat stock and drill the holes you want into it. You do not need any of the fancy cutouts and speed holes/etc of the commercial disks. Just need the stock to be flat. |
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You can see it in this picture. There are two dowel pins used as keys, thus making them dutch keys. 100% of mine look like this but our shafts were sourced from 2013, 2014 and 2015. Its not a published spec, so vex could have another revision that is not made this way. We found a way that avoided taking apart this feature, i am not sure how hard it is. I used the dutch key professionally as an emergency reinforcement of key way, they were not drilled straight so once the dowel pins were inserted, we knew it has really hard to take apart thus threw away the assembly when there was down time. |
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-Aren |
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tl;dr
A good elbow joint, using most any motor, light and under $400. That woud be a great COTS part. |
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VexPro gussets (namely t-gussets) with the pre-drilled holes aligned at a 1/2" offset. Right now the t-gussets support aligning versa frame rails to each other ever 1", but having a gusset option like this would allow alignment options every 1/2". Obviously there are many easy workarounds to achieve the same end result with existing products, but "native" support of those configurations would be useful.
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It's probably too late for this, but I'd be really happy if there were COTS 32mm wide HTD pulleys available from Vex. Right now if you run double 15s you need two separate 18mm pulleys, and that's just annoying. I don't like making pulleys from stock. Would be best if we could just buy 'em. 9mm wide belts in the drive is often pushing it anyway.
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Taper-lock hubs.
I found some HTD pulleys using this style of bushing lying around our shop last year, and they're basically the most convenient thing ever. If FRC suppliers could start making stuff that uses this in lieu of set-screws, it'd be very nice. |
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Clamping interfaces are a great way to do things, but I'm unsure if they'd come in cheap enough for the average FRC customer. Would love to get them though! |
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I love this thread. I thought of another since my last suggestion:
Gearboxes with hex-bore 3rd stages. Imagine how much easier replacing a gearbox would be if you could leave the drive train all connected and just slip the gearbox off the final drive shaft? |
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That being said, the ability to place any arbitrary 1/2" hex output shaft would be nice. |
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Why would that be difficult? Center wheel supported by hex shaft in bearing blocks, same as per wheels. Hex bore gearbox then slips over hex shaft on the inside of the frame. If you're really clever, you could put the gearbox on a fourth jack shaft between wheels, and reverse the mounting so that the mounting bolts are accessible, and the gearbox slides off the shaft outward from the frame, same as the wheels. That would be amazing! |
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Both the VersaFrame T gusset and the VersaChassis gussets have holes every 1/2". Did you mean a 1/4" offset? A tool to punch holes in tread for the alligator clips would be great - we mangled about a quarter of our clips, and half of the other three-quarters aren't quite right. The ideal form of this tool would have a ledge for the setback and small hole punches (not awls) to make the holes. A miter box for versaframe to help put the hacksaw exactly where it should be for square, 30 degree, 45 degree, and 60 degree miters. VF Gussets for 37 degree and 53 degree angles (that is, the acute angles of a 3-4-5 triangle). And a miter box for that, too. |
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[quote=Oblarg;1607585(you have to leave space for the second bearing and whatever hex bore coupler you're using as an output).[/QUOTE]
No that's just the thing. I don't want a coupling, I want a hex bore all the way through the gearbox, supported by internal bearings, so it is just a bolt-on operation. |
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At the end of Red Stick Rumble, we wound up wiring the (pebble top) tread on with steel wire wrapped around the wheel and tread in about six places, which seemed to work better than anything we had done all season. Failing a good way to secure clips, we were already planning that in a situation like this year we would go with "solid rubber" wheels (e.g. colsons, or kit wheels from 2010, 2015, or 2016), and carving tread if needed, or the wiring solution. We'll have to try some rivets. |
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