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Lathe Suggestions
4909 is looking to purchase a lathe for the upcoming season and I wanted to see what everyone suggests. I've been keeping an eye out on Craigslist but it's slow going.
I've also looked at something along the lines of Precision Matthews (http://www.machinetoolonline.com/PM-1127-VF.html). What are some suggestions? |
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What is your budget for this, and how big would you like it to be?
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$3000-$3500
When it comes to specs I am in the dark. |
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We got this one this season: http://www.pts-tools.com/cgi/CGP2SRI...91135740322589
It has worked out well for our needs so far. The ability to precisely cutoff and tap 1/2" shaft has been a game changer. We have also been able to cut pockets to recess bearings into gears, machine custom intake pulleys out of plastic, and turn down hubs to thin them out. We haven't done any steel work on this lathe. Changing speeds is a slow process, but we ran most of our operations at the lowest speed this year with the carbide lathe tools from harbor freight. Use oil/tap magic. Make sure you buy motor oil to keep everything running smooth. I'm impressed by the number of safety interlocks on this lathe, it has an estop, a power off button, an interlocked chuck shield, and the belt/gearbox cover is interlocked. Overall I think this lathe will be able to accomplish almost all of the lathe machining we could wish for at least for several years. I would recommend that you don't overthink this decision too much, the best lathe is the one you have. |
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Finding a good used lathe is a lot more difficult than finding a used milling machine. There is no single "flagship" design that you see with Bridgeport knee mills for lathes. You need to know what you are looking for in terms of minimum specs and capabilities of the machine. But the upside is if you are patient and watchful you can get a lot more machine for your money.
What are you wanting to make with it primarily? Shafts and drive axles? Because you can get away with a tiny lathe for those kinds of parts. |
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We use a stock Grizzly G0602 and are pretty happy with it. For a manual machine it works well enough and is a good size for most FRC parts. As a bonus, there are many places online that show how to convert it to CNC.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
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Machining 1/2 inch hex shaft can be done on a mini-lathe.
For general FRC use something around a 10 x 40 with a BXA tool post size is ideal. Having a quick change tool post speeds up the work. Watch the motor specs, you need a motor that will work with your existing power outlets. You'll want to save some of your budget to buy a good assortment of cutting tools, cutoff blade, grooving tools for c-clips/e-clips. Also a full tap and drill set. |
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link to the cad https://grabcad.com/library/swerve-d...lder_id=871722 |
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Your typical mini lathe has 7 inches of swing.
Stepping up to a larger mill provides- Considerably more powerful motor Stiffer overall machine, higher accuracy More Speed Options Ability to use a BXA tool post (1/2" tooling) over 3/8" tooling on a mini-mill. Ability to machine larger items if needed. More options for creating threads Room to Center bore. (Harder to do on a short mini-lathe) |
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A Grizzly G602 is a great choice. Get the stand with it. Allow $3-500 for tooling and accessories.
Regardless of new or used - but especially used - if you ahve no experience with a lathe, either find someone who does or start learning fast. A lathe needs tender care. Older used machines can take more abuse, but unless you know lathes, you won't be able to restore it to where it needs to be. I recommend getting a copy of South Bend's "how to run a lathe" - Atlas makes a similar book, and either can be had for under $20 on eBay (or $25 new from the factory). These books were written in the 1930s and are still excellent resources, they tell you almost all you need to know in very plain language. Do this before committing to a lathe. |
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Maintenance is Key: Monitoring the oil level, and having a proper oil can with a bronze tip that fits the oil ball bearing ports is important to keeping your lathe running well. Lubricate the gears with grease. Never use shop air to blow the chips off. Same advice goes for all your machine tools, take care of them and they last and perform well. |
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I would definitely recommend buying the largest lathe you can afford. An old used lathe (hardinge, monarch, hendey) will be better than a modern machine but can be harder to find.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-x...campaign=zPage these seem to be pretty good for the price and size. |
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Other than HASS, there are no domestic lathes in production. The current South Bend ones are all imports. If you have limited shop space; a Bench Top to unit would be the way to go. Otherwise their are a lot of "tool room" sized lathes in the used market. |
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Standard Modern makes lathes in Canada, which afaik is the only North American lathe still in regular production. They are not cheap though. I got a quote last fall just to see and a 1340 was $16,000 and a 1640 was $27,000. |
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Smaller lathes are cheaper, however smaller sizes can be killers on precision. If your doing non-critical shapes then small lathes are good but if you want precision definitely go for a bigger lathe. It really matters what you're going to use it for. Sometimes its better to spend a little more money and get what you need.
Also be careful using carbide, its great but it can chip too. The smoother motions you can do the less chance you risk of damaging your cutter. Its the same way for mills, unless you use CNC machines its actually recommended you don't use carbide. |
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Look for a Hardinge HLV-H tool room lathe. They are wonderful machines and can be found in your price range
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Craftsman (Sears) lathes were made by Atlas, parts are identical. |
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I also wouldn't trust a high school kid with one (and I am a high school kid) just because they are so nice. It would be a shame for one to get killed. |
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Otherwise - the Taiwanese machines are generally nicer than the mainland China manufactured machines. Lots of brands sourcing from the same factories and putting their label on it (Precision Matthews, Eisen, Victor, Sharp, etc). |
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A TFB-H that isn't beat to hell and back won't be in OP's budget either. We spent $8k on ours. Without DRO and accessories it was $5000something. |
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If you're looking to buy a used lathe, I recommend watching this video: https://youtu.be/bP-rh6LfteU
It's a little long, but it goes really in depth in what you should be looking for when evaluating a lathe. Also, there are a couple of tips on actually moving it. |
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I think the used lathed market is very location & economy dependent. Where I am in the south, decent small lathes (anything under say a 12" swing) are hard to find & don't stay on the market long. Larger lathes typically need 3 phase and a dedicated space.
While way under the OP's budget, don't discount the 7 X xx Chinese lathes. They are supported by a large hobbyist group. Lots of available tooling & mods. While sold complete they should be thought of more as a kit. As long as you stay in their capability, they are as accurate as the operator. They do well on shafting and bushings. While no match for a Hardinge in good shape-- good luck finding a Hardinge for $1k with tooling. They can also be moved. If your reality a multi purpose classroom for a work space, they are not a bad choice. |
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My suggestion for lathe is this JET BD-920W. and guess what it is on Amazon.com JET has really good machines.
http://www.amazon.com/JET-BD-920W-La...ords=jet+lathe We were fortunate to get this lathe donated to us (used) It is compact but not too small, it worked great for all of our shafts this year. |
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https://littlemachineshop.com/produc...ory=1963256897 Also this guide and website can be helpful for these lathes: http://www.akpilot.net/Rebuild%20Man...d%20Manual.pdf http://bedair.org/9x20camlock/9x20project.html |
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I would never pay 2k for a lathe like that, maybe 1k all in with tooling if I needed a starter lathe and had no patience. |
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Has anyone purchased the insanely cheap small ones from Harbor Freight? I know you get what you pay for, but will it work for turning down 1/2" hex shafts, creating spacers, and other minor operations? The downside seems the small travel length & chuck size.
We've gotten by for years without a lathe or a mill but I could see where a small one could come in handy for some operations that we simply can't do today. With a 20% off coupon you could probably snag this for under $500. |
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http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/sh...53&postcount=7 http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/sh...5&postcount=28 |
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This thread here has some good reasoning on why lathes (and mills) are important. :) |
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A small import lathe can easily machine custom axels, spacers, etc. Machining 1/2 inch 7075 hex shaft tends to push the limits of their ability.
You definitely need to be on top of the maintance game with these small lathes. If you machine much hex stock frequently, inspect the gibs for free play often. |
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We purchased this lathe last year: http://www.micromark.com/microlux-7x...athe,9615.html
We were limited on space and could only handle a benchtop lathe. We put the lathe ontop of this rolling workbench : http://www.costco.com/TRINITY-72%22-...100235671.html You will also notice it has a longer bed than most others on the market. It worked for everything we needed. I'd recommend this lathe to anyone looking for a benchtop lathe. FRC5090 |
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I believe we're looking at this one:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-x...campaign=zPage Waiting to hear back from Grizzy regarding suggested accessories that work with it. |
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Any thought on this slightly larger Harbor Freight model (8x12)?
http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-...the-44859.html |
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Be aware though, no quick change gearbox. |
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