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pic: Ultimate chain tool project
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Re: pic: Ultimate chain tool project
Some things to consider:
Deep pockets with fairly small area need a lot of consideration paid to chip clearing. Chain breakers put a substantial load on the threads. If using 6061, you may want to think about designing it for a Helicoil. To run this on your Tormach, you will be using fairly small dia. end mills. To keep your chip load proper, this part will take a lot of time to process. This is a really good training exercize. It will teach you a lot about setting up and milling small parts. |
Re: pic: Ultimate chain tool project
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Re: pic: Ultimate chain tool project
I would consider the next step up for re-usable fasteners - a keyed insert. The brand name I know is Keensert. These are much more robust inserts, but do require some specialty tooling. I would see if a local machine shop would lend the tooling to you. This was our standard insert for aluminum vibration tooling to allow easy install of control accelerometers. We found that using tanged or tangless helicoils over and over again was a bad idea and once we switched to Keenserts the problem went away.
-matto- |
Re: pic: Ultimate chain tool project
A couple of points:
1) Why not machine it out of 1018 steel? Tormach can handle steel. 2) Why do you want to push the pin out? I made one for my team and it's set to push the pin out enough so you can break the chain while leaving the pin in. Then you have a pin ready to push right back in. This is much more secure than any connecting link you would use. 3) I used an injector pin for the part that is actually pushing against the chain pin. These are very hard and won't mushroom out, plus you can get them sized to fit thru the pin hole. 4) Make sure you have enough leverage available on the handle to actually move the pin. We used a shcs so we can put a long allen wrench in it or even use a drill with a hex bit. |
Re: pic: Ultimate chain tool project
Some additional comments I didn't see written:
I'd recommend you use fine thread rather than coarse thread. The screw will be easier to turn. Are you machining the all thread down to the point? If I understood your description, it's case hardened, but that won't help you if you machine away the case. For our custom #35 chain tool (and the replacement we used for the #25 that broke) we used a hardened dowel pin inserted into the end of the screw. |
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- I'm excited to see the development of not only an improved 25 chain break, but a 35 chain equivalent. Do you think instead of milling square protrusions, you could just press roll pins into the block to constrain the chain? This makes manufacturing much easier for you, and it avoids causing overconstraint by limiting the points of contact with the chain. |
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2.Because, as stated in the description, this tool can be used to build chain (put the pin back in) if the pin is removed. 3. Thanks for the suggestion, I might look into that, but we have the all-thread and hardening compound on hand, so we'll probably start with that. 4. Good point. The handle is home made, so we could easily put a longer peace of rod in. Quote:
Yes, I plan to machine the all-thread down to form the mandrel, but the case hardening will take place after that. Quote:
I think using roll pins is a great idea, but we don't have the size we would need on hand, so the first one will probably be cut as shown. |
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Re: pic: Ultimate chain tool project
We had to replace a Dark Soul when a student somehow cross threaded it and then started wrenching down hard on it after it started to get stuck. We had a long conversation about when to ask for help.
We tried a variety of repairs, but ultimately had to buy a new one. If you can make your own new tool when something like this happens because you own a CNC, material may not be a concern. Dark Souls were on a 2 week back order at the time so we were in a bit of a panic. -matto- |
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Also, for rebuilding, I know that the Dark Soul tool has a very wide mandrel for pushing the pins back in. Have you thought about incorporating that rather than relying on the same pin to reassemble? |
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Are you suggesting that it would be better to design for pushing a pin in that has only been partially removed? Maybe that would be easier. Quote:
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It can be a little tricky otherwise to align the pin back into the hole for the outer link such that when you apply force it goes in, versus binding up slightly crooked. Leaving the pin in the link makes this a non-issue. |
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