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Machining precision required to make custom gearboxes
My team is currently making a (simple) custom gearbox in place of the COTS gearboxes we were planning to use that ran out of stock.
My question is: Do you really need thou precision to make decent gearboxes? Because after looking at some other threads, it seems like even measurements as small as .003" can make a significant difference in the performance of a gearbox. |
Re: Machining precision required to make custom gearboxes
I would say you should be able to relatively easily hold .002" on position of hole centers on a decent quality manual mill with a somewhat experienced operator. That would be good enough for a custom gearbox.
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Re: Machining precision required to make custom gearboxes
What about oblong holes? Our DIY gantry-style CNC consistently cuts oblong bearing holes that are exactly correct in the 'X' direction, but approximately 0.001-0.002 off in the 'Y' direction. That's about as close as they could get before needing to move on to other things.
As the guy CAD'ing our first-ever custom (non-drivetrain) gearboxes this year, is there anything I can do to make this a non-issue? The concern for us is gearbox longevity in ~120 matches between March & November. |
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I second that you need .002" precision at the minimum. Personally I prefer .001". If you do not have a mill, please don't attempt this mid-season- there is almost a saturation of gearboxes available from WCP, Vex, and Andymark. |
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Re: Machining precision required to make custom gearboxes
If you don't have a CNC or a manual mill, you can do this manually. With the typical FRC gears and a simple gear box. you can lay out and drill holes using a machinist scale, scribe, prick punch, a drill press, and a little OCCD. Clamp & drill the side plates together. This takes a lot of care, but is very doable.
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Much more valuable to expend that effort on other areas of the robot. |
Re: Machining precision required to make custom gearboxes
Are there any other teams in your area that have access to a CNC mill or water-jet? Most teams are happy to support other nearby teams with machining or needed parts. FIRST is really a community, we only compete on the field.
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I would venture to think that there is backlash in the router that can be corrected with software (LinuxCNC/Mach/etc.), but I haven't seen their setup. |
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In any event, since the gears arrive tomorrow we'll likely just make the gearbox and report back in November. If we see signs of premature wear during our planned 50-climb test, we'll probably get steel gears and just brute force it. It's in an easy-to-replace spot and we're building a spare as it is. |
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In terms of drill presses. We are fortunate to have a heavy 1/2 press with good bearings. But I get as accurate results by using a 1/4 in Ryobi and either a short 1/8" bit or center bit. |
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1. If you are going to be repeating patterns get your hands on some stainless and make a decent template either by drafting the dimensions onto the metal or by tracing the pattern off of something else and finding the centers. only drill it out to 1/8" for pilot holes 2. Clamp the template to the piece you want a gearbox on and drill out your pilot holes. 3. Bring your holes into size for the smaller holes (<=1/4") we just use a drill bit but step your way up to keep it straight. for the 7/8" and 1-1/8" holes just buy a regular hole saw. the normal hole saw will be over size so you have to put it in a drill and run it on a grinder or belt sander for just a second or two. this will bring the size of the saw under size. pull the 1/4" drill bit out of it and just shove a 1/4" rod in there this will help to keep the saw straight. Bring your pilot hole to 1/4" then used the smooth shaft on the hole saw to bring it to size. for the holes less than 7/8" and greater than 1/4" I highly recommend every team owns a rotabroach kit specifically this one https://www.mcmaster.com/#4093a81/=15ybt9g 4. The bearing holes are undersize so open them up with a deburring tool. another highly recommended if not necessary to pass inspection tool https://www.mcmaster.com/#4253a16/=15ybuy8 Just take your time with it, try to keep the cut perpendicular to the surface of the material and keep checking the bearing until you can press it in snuggly It isn't fancy but it works. I think it is hugely advantageous to be able to integrate a gearbox into just about any surface. Then you can start doing weird stuff like perimeter mount gearboxes to save space in your bot. There are a lot of COTS gearboxes but it is awfully nice to feel like you can crank out exactly what you need in an hour or two. this is a test set up on a piece of scrap; ![]() |
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