Chief Delphi - Tools for Rookie Team?

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Tools for Rookie Team?

Hey, this is Mark from the rookie Mission San Jose Robotics Team 1045.

We are currently in the process of obtaining tools and parts, and I was wondering if anyone could provide a comprehensive list of tools that are usually used in the process of constructing the robot. I would greatly appreciate any assistance on this topic. Thanks.

I'll be able to help you with this in a few days. I'm really busy right now. Send me a PM if you want me to make up a list for you.

just a thought, but wouldn't this post go better in the Q&A section? And PMing a list to one individual is hardly helpful to the community. I'm sure there's tons of teams that need to know this kind of thing.

Here is a list of tools to have for building a FIRST robot:

Minimum needed:
----------------------
Wrenches: socket, allen, open-ended
Pliars: needle-nosed, adjustible, and vice-grips
Screwdrivers: Philips (large & small), regular (large & small)
Hacksaw
File (flat and rat-tail)
Side cutters (small and large)
Tin snips
Wire stripper
Wire crimper
Center punch or punch set
Hammer
Drill bits
Taps
Tap handle
Ruler
Calipers
Tape measure
Cable ties
Electrical tape
Duct tape (even though you can't use it on the robot, you will still need this)
Corded power drill
Cordless drill
Dremel w/ accessories
Soldering iron
Voltmeter
Level
Square (for getting right angles)
Vice

Other stuff that makes things easier:
----------------------------------------------
Label maker
Sheet metal break
Sheet metal shear
Grinder
Sander (disk and belt)
Lathe
Mill
Drill Press
Welder (able to weld aluminum and/or steel)
Band saw (the bigger the better)
Chop saw (horizontal band saw)

Also... there are other things to consider when you are going to a competition. I attached an Excel file which lists that stuff.

There may be more to this list... please add to it if you see fit, of course.

Andy B.

Perhaps a Q&A question, but...

beside the screwdrivers necessary for whatever type you choose, and drill bits and drivers, and a huge hammer for when frustration gets high :-), you might get by with these -

.carpenters square - things positioned well, work better
.measuring tape
.six-in electronic caliper
.scribe for marking and...
.black magic marker or machinist ink to lay out before cutting
.vice, *securely* mounted, bigger than 4"
.hacksaw with lots of new blades.
.files
,set of Allen Keys for existing setscrews
.V-block for drilling radially into round things
.weight scale - to check before the end of week 3
.wrench set - open ended types work fine on pneumatics and on nuts if you don't have a ...
.set of nut drivers
.locking jaw pliers in several sizes
.clamps - several sets of several sizes
.wire cutter-crimper (have come in past kits) - the importance of a good crimping cannot be over-emphasized. For stripping, a utility knife is quite often as useful as automatic strippers. AVOID the stamped/riveted cutter-stripper-crimper sold in kits with crimp-on connectors - 'useless' doesn't begin to describe a slightly used pair.
.hand held drill - we have several cordless ones (all at the *same* voltage - we have 12 V, which means we can test a motor with the drill batteries if needed)

very useful advances are :
drill press - (preferably with a vice, and a cross vice is even better)
band saw - with a "rip fence" and a miter guide

handy, but not essential for rookie teams, items include
lathe
mill
These need someone who's used them before to be *safe*, let alone useful. They are expensive, and if the team owns them, they need storage.

A telephone directory, tabbed with pages of suppliers of services (as mentioned elsewhere, now would be a good time to talk to them, see who can work with you, who might sponsor you ...)

Using the aluminum extrusion for framing saves time and machining (we've used Bosch, others use different manufacturers). It comes with maker-specific corner fasteners and t-nuts for fastening to the sides of the extrusion, Make sure you always have the tightening tools. Always Think Triangles, and don't be afraid to put some of your screws right into the centre part of the extrusion axially and radially to act as pins (no sideways movement.

Decide on a single size screw for fastening non-extrusion metal - we used #8 - so there is only one screwdriver size (especially important if you use a socket head (Robertson (the square one) is our favourite, but there's Allen and Torx). Use slot or Phillips if you want scratches and damage around the screws (why does Bob Villa get paid to advertise screw removers for Sears, and they only show slot and Phillips being mangled enough to
require the removers ?)

Naturally, every piece of supplied equipment needs a different size nut or screw, but keep it to a minimum, and paint the fasteners which are not your chosen size, and the tools too, so that between two bouts thoughtfully scheduled two minutes apart, you won't waste time finding the right one for the job.

Forget not the importance of lockwashers on nearly every screw, and be tempted not by permanent Lock-Tite, lest ye find ye must disassemble, yea that ye must *constantly* disassemble, a certain connection that was supposed to be final.

Number Two Tool is a space of your own to meet in, to build in, and to test in. Also needed is access to a space with a level hard floor, with height enough to raise the robot, and to allow lobbing of projectiles (a gymnasium is excellent).

Number One tool is money. Getting there isn't half the fun, but it's at least as expensive as staying there. Money for "Additional Hardware" is essential. And buy extra material for construction; someone will make a mistake, or some one will decide on a different vision halfway through the build phase ...

This is not as complete as it might be, but it could be a start. There are probably any number of White Papers on the subject - explore Chief Delphi's board and use it as a library.

HYHelps

For the final week of the building season I would add:

a cot
a pillow
a blanket
mass quanities of Mountain Dew

Ken Loyd
Team 64

A good scale is essential. During build we get estimates for system weight, weigh the actual hardware for subsystems before installation, track projected vs actual weight continuosly, and then weigh the final product.

Typically our estimated weight is 0.5-1 lb off the actual weight. It really is hard to estimate the wires, as they are cut to length on installation and once installed we don't want to take them out.

The easiest way to reduce weight is to keep it off in the first place.

An extensive Med Kit is a very helpful tool for the accident prone victims of your team

thanks for your help, i'll look in the white papers section for more info. again, thanks.

-mark

I have advice about what not to use.
1. NEVER EVER use flat head screws unless you absolutely have to. They will strip almost immediately, and are a huge pain to deal with.
2. I can't agree enough with not using permanent loc-tite. Sooner or later, you will need to remove that loc-tited part, and it wont be fun to take it off.
3. This should probably be number one, but try to avoid using setscrews as much as possible.
4. Try not to use metric and english allen-headed bolts on the robot, it can be very annoying to search for the right wrench.

Now the things you should have:
1. I really think a drill press is important. it makes accurate drilling so much easier. You can get them fiarly cheap. I believe you can get a 9" model at sears for <$99.
2. Bandsaws are also good. You can get a Ryobi model for around $99 also.
3. A Jigsaw is useful if you have no bandsaw, or it is not practical to use one.
4. get lots of clamps. You will not want to weld/drill holes in things and bolt them together before you even know whether that is going to be ints final configuration. clamps can save you costly errors in this way.
5. This isn't really a tool, but buy LOTS of sharpies. You will be amazed at how fast you will lose them, and how often you will need them.

Thats about all I can think of that hasn't been mentioned

Needless to say, a computer, powerful enough to run design software, mainly AutoCAD...and a trust drafting table to plot it all out. While your at it, pick up a whiteboard and some dry erase markers.

For the holidays, get your team some organizational skills to make sure you know where all these new tools are when you need them....

I think I've gone through 3 sets of Ball Driver Allen Keys just because I lent them to someone and they lent it to someone and so on.

It really sucks when you need a wrench, and no-one has theirs of that size because it is lost in the abyss.

Basically, anything that you use to make projects out of wood. Examples: Drill Presses, Band Saws, Jig Saws, Belt Sanders, etc. Our team, another rookie team, already has all of our tools ready to go.

CHAINBREAKER, my god, A CHAIN BREAKER!
and what the heck bring some master links too ;)

Our rookie year last year wouldn't had been successful if it would not have had ZIP-TIES. They are legal on robots and you can do anything with them. Got a loose part? zip tie it. Need some extra support? Zip tie it. Got a robot accessary to add to suprise the competition? Zit tie it! Our Light and tether were both held on by zip-ties!

Oh and get as many varieties as possible.
They also work well at keeping all that wiring together and in a nice tidy order.
look
http://www.lmrobotics.com/pictures/pics9/MVC-625F.JPG[/url]

ther are probably 80 zip ties in that one picture. I will say again that if you really need something, it will be zip-ties. We saw many teams who had wires every where, and when they went to work on their robot they had to be careful of all the wires. And plus it makes the electrical inspection easier.

Cable ties rule. Also, a good socket set is priceless. What do you guys use to cut bosch extrusion. We use a non-ferrous metal cutting mitre saw blade.

Quote:

Originally posted by D. Gregory
What do you guys use to cut bosch extrusion. We use a non-ferrous metal cutting mitre saw blade.

We've been using a chop saw with a good ol' carbide tipped wood blade. Never got around to buying a metal blade. We've got one for this year though.

On the topic of tools, I think a sawzall and a full set of quality hex ball drivers are a must. http://www.bondhus.com Sometimes OSH sells these.

Ooooo tools.....

Thanks, I was always afraid of using carbide wood blades. What kind of life do you get out of them? In the begginning of last year we tried using one of those steel cutting cutoff blades. I'll put it this way, there was lots of melted aluminum and carcinogenic smoke.

Quote:

Originally posted by D. Gregory
Thanks, I was always afraid of using carbide wood blades. What kind of life do you get out of them? In the begginning of last year we tried using one of those steel cutting cutoff blades. I'll put it this way, there was lots of melted aluminum and carcinogenic smoke.

The wood blade is very very loud cutting aluminum. The teeth looked a little deformed by the end of the 6 weeks but it still cuts wood and metal just as good as it ever has. It seems to work okay if hack is your style :D but I would recommend a fine tooth metal cutting blade.

And never use the black woven cutoff blades for aluminum.

Well the basics are pretty well covered already, but here's some items you might overlook:
Bolts/screws/shoulder bolts. Decide on standardized heads and threadcounts ( I suggest hex heads). Get lots of extra tools and taps for these. Get a parts bin and carry lots of extras. A good assortment of washers and lock washers will come in handy. Don't use permanent loc-tite.

Scrap plywood, aluminum, caster wheels, etc. for prototyping. Being able to throw togethor a prototype for something before you start building it/CAD'ing it will be a life saver. Our robots normally start out as pecies of plywood clamped to a furniture dolly.

A real drill press. At the very least get a decent corded drill. Cordless drills are nice for last minute details, but do not expect to make anything square with them.

Finally, don't forget safety goggles and shop rags.

http://www2.usfirst.org/2003comp/Adm...l_Handling.pdf

Page 10 of the Administrative, Shipping & Drayage Information pdf from the FIRST site contains a large list of almost everything listed above and then some.

If you don't believe 'and then some' ...

Quote:

Magnet on a stick

I rest my case.

Don't forget paper & pencils (cheaper to scrap then parts)
Invest in a GOOD tool box (lasts for years, buy larger then needed)
parting tip, when using carbide "wood" blades on alum.
try a little WD40 for cutting oil, (I have used skill saw on
1 1/2 6160 alum plate with on prob.)

Quote:

Originally posted by sanddrag
And never use the black woven cutoff blades for aluminum.

Yeah, those work as good as cleaning aluminum on a grinding wheel!! <--Another bad move I made my first year on the team!

We did that last year because our leader wouldn't listen to me when I told him we needed a carbon tipped blade. He figured that a black woven blade cost 10 bux and cut steel, a hard metal so aluminum would be a cakewalk. We were too poor to even buy a 80 dollar(CDN) blade (we only had 2 robot batteries for peets sake!). Even after I gave him an long explanation about carcinogenic gas and using the grind wheel example we still used it. We had the world's smelliest and messiest cuts. The area that was cut turned to slag hahaha. We eventually bummed a carbon blade from a members father. The workshop was very smelly and hazy after the woven steel blade cuts.