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Drill Motors....OVERHEATING, DRIVETRAINS!
How are your drivetrains shaping up?
For some reason our drill motors are tripping the breakers really really badly. We don't seem to be able to get any torque out of the motors cuz once the robot stops on the ramp, it's next to impossible for it to start moving up again without tripping the breakers. The robot doesn't weigh all that much (we're at least 50lbs under limit) And the motors seem completely unresponsive for the first few degrees of input from the joystick. To add insult to injury...it's overheating. There's a familiar smell of burning after a few minutes of run time. Did I mention both motors had their brushes pop out? |
Well, first off, are you using the 40A breakers or 30A breakers? The 40s will help, though it won't solve the cause of your problem.
Secondly, are you running the drills in high or low gear? It sounds like you're not getting enough torque to drive up the ramp. Switching to low gear, or adding additional gearing could remedy this problem. It'll mean a sacrifice in speed, but if you're popping breakers, it's probably a necessary thing. As far as the unresponsiveness, the joysticks and Victors have a deadband right around 127 (center). Unless you use programming to scale your inputs and outputs, you'll have an area on the joystick that does nothing. There are a few threads about this (try a search) so I won't go into this too much. Finally, the "smell of burning" means you're pushing your drills too hard and too long. Gearing will help this, but keep in mind, matches are only two minutes. The drills aren't designed for long time use, so try to avoid running your robot for extended periods. Give the motors a chance to cool off. It'll help a lot. |
Re: Drill Motors....OVERHEATING, DRIVETRAINS!
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BTW, what was your design speed and are you able to achieve that speed on a flat surface? |
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We realized some time ago that the drive would cause problems like that, so we have all the output capped in software so the motors only go so fast. when we push the joystick full forward, the motor doesn't go full forward, it goes about 2/3 of the possible speed -- i think. We can change that easily to 3/4 or 4/5 when we start testing thoroughly.
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Re: Drill Motors....OVERHEATING, DRIVETRAINS!
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Second try and switch the breakers with a new 40 amp breakers. I know we (team 930) got a defective breakers and we switched it with a new one and fixed the problem |
we had over heating on own test base but the actual robot we ran them for 10 minutes straight and they never even got warm
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we were having overheating problems on the main drive motors, but we never blew any breakers as an experienced member of our team told us to stop when we smelt the burning... our solution was to mount 2 muffin fans into the motor guard, blowing right were the clutch meets the motor, inward. there is a built in fan at the end of the motor (where the power leads attach) that blows outward so our fans are just feeding the motor air. it works fine, we can drive up and down the ramp for 10 minutes and they only get warm... a little airflow can go along way... -Jacob
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official word from FIRST is that more than 1 muffin fan is illegal.
http://jive.ilearning.com/thread.jsp...t=45&trange=15 we still have two on our bot, but if the inspectors say anything we can take one off with no problems |
Thats not true, you cannot use two large muffin fans. You can use quite a few small muffin fans though, I think there were at least 4 in the kit.
Cory |
Could traction be the problem?
team 987 is using the same drill motors and we are using go-kart wheels that give us a great ammount of traction. Your robot may have too much traction. running in high gear, our robot would over heat, draw too many amps, and reset. While running in low gear and 40A breakers, it ran fine, but not nearly as fast (duh). the fans inside the drill motors only spin when the motors are spinning. if you have any extra space and weight, i would reccomend placing fans near the motors. we dont have that luxury. good luck, thank mother nature for the extra 2 days - we needed it :-)
Prez, Team 987, Las Vegas, NV Highest Rookie Seed, Einstein Division, 2002 Championships (5th seed) |
Your almost certanly pushing the motors to hard by not gearing them down enough. Don't run motors full bore for long because you kill them. Keep in mind most of the parts for the bot are only intended to work in short bursts.
Get a can of air, flip it upside down and spray the motor. This should add half a minut. Metal motor brackets can double as a heatsinks. |
Freeze the motors?
If you are serious about cooling the motors, make some small brackets with small fans on them blowing right over the brush assy. I would avoid the compressed air route as you might start shorting things when the ice thaws out.
( it will ice over ) You are trying to fix a fundamental design/fabrication flaw in 30 seconds and it won't work well. Check the motor alignment too, if you are putting a side load on the motor ( as in, up, down, left or right on the shaft ) it will make the motor very unhappy and sometimes have results you describe. If you are really cooking them that badly, might i suggest going down to 30amps instead of 40, if you are using 40 now, it might save your motors. Tripping a breaker for 5 seconds in a match is better than cooking a motor and being dead for a minute. ( in general ). |
the drill motors on our robot have overheated sooo bad that the plastic case they sit in is melting.
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Two responses:
Our motors were tripping and stalling also, we solved it by doing the following: 1. Replacing one of our motors (the brishes fell out on ours too) 2. Replacing the Victor and 40-amp fuses connected to the motor Also, I think that you can use two of the larger muffin fans (We did). We had the thorough technical inspectors come and check us out; they said nothing about having more than one fan being illegal. |
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