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Greg, sorry that I haven't answered the question yet. Since I haven't had the time to look at the data needed to give you a correct answer, I thought it would be best to tell you what I would look for. Like Sandrag, I remeber a really tiny Johnson motor. Which year's kit did the big one that you are refering to come in.
First, Bduggan04 said that it was ok based on the 2002 manual. If the Johnson motor you are refering to came in 2002, then you are ok. If you want to verify it, you can get the old manuals through archive.org or search chiefdelphi, since Nate Smith has posted links to old manuals before. If it's not mentioned in the 2002 manual, or a different Johnson motor was used in 2002, then you need to find the specs for the motor you are using. Places to look for the specs are the manual for the year it came in the kit, team updates from that year, searching chiefdelphi posts, and chiefdelphi whitepapers. If you can't find the specs from there, you can try the manufacturer. That may be hard though. The main thing that you are looking for is what the stall current is. If it draws more then about 20 amps when stalled, you shouldn't use it on a spike. |
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Thanks, -Greg The Great |
No, a Fischer Price motor can not be run off of a spike. Its stall current (if I remember correctly) is in the range of 60+ amps.
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Anything can technically be run off a spike. Just don't expect to run it at stall for long, or last very long. For the most part, you can run any motor off the spike except the Drill (any year) or the CIM. There's too big of a chance that you will most likely exceed 20A for a long period with these motors.
The FP and van door motors are questionable, but they should work. Just try not to stall the motors very often. The FP motor draws 57A at stall and the van door (any year) is 40A. Basically, plan your motors to only use 20A of the stall current. The ratio of the usable torque can be figured out as 20A/Stall current * Stall torque. You will still see the same free speed, but only expect to produce that amount of torque in your calcuations for extended periods of time (greater than 1 second)... The spikes can handle larger currents for short bursts, but not for very long... As suggested from 2002 year (manual), put an auto-resetting 20A breaker on the spike to replace its 20A fuse... that way you won't have to deal with blowing and replacing fuses all the time... |
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-Greg The Great |
Popping fuses...
I think you are likely to pop a lot of fuses.
The in rush current alone may be enough to pop a standard fuse. I think that you could probably get by if you replaced the fuse with a circuit breaker but you are still walking on thin ice. You will have to have the motor very lightly loaded in order for it not to have repeated tripping problems. You will be temped to use the 30 Amp breaker. Again, You can probably get by, but you are on thin ice. One problem with this is that the relay itself is not rated for high current. It is easier than you'd think to weld the contacts on this type of relay. Victors are so much nicer for this type of application. Perhaps you can ask around for teams with old 883's to sell? I know Chief Delphi had a boatload of them at one time (we used them in our old Chief Delphi Invitational RC boxes), but I think we are more or less out of stock. I can't be sure but I THINK we don't have that many left any more. Joe J. |
Well if you did try it out, the worst that can happen (assuming everything is properly connected) is that you can blow some fuses. Get other mentors from your team to confirm that everything is properly connected and then see what happens.
I personally would never control any motor with a spike. The Victors provide soooo much more grace in that they can gradually speed up and slow down. |
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