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Check Out Our New Custom Frame!
See below. Combined duplicate posts from separate threads into a single thread.
-Madison |
Re: Standard vs. Custom Frame
Don't make the mistake of leaving your cantilevered wheels out in the open. It cost 60 in 2004, and every "too exposed" cantilevered robot at least once in 2006. At the least, make it so that bumpers can be attached to the robot, to sort of "protect" the wheels.
Moderator note: This is relevant to the posts below it and was taken from another thread. I can't change the timestamp. |
Check Out Our New Custom Frame!
Hi,
I started a custom vs. kit chasis thread a few days agao and we decided to go ahead and build a custom frame and here is what we came up with. If any of you are feeling especially motivated, feel free to check out our CAD files as well. We had a few more questions, any responses would be very much appreciated. 1) Our axils jut out 2.25 inches. With the force of the chain, will our axils bend? 2) Note the front and rear axils and that they have only one sprocket and that we have to use a spacer. What would be a good spacer to use? 3) Our wheels are exposed and we are using a 1/2 inch keyed shaft. Our wheels are high traction wheels from IFI Robotics In what ways could the wheels be damaged and are there any ways to prevent this besides putting a beam or bumpers on the outside. 4) Can we use use e-clips or spacers? 5) Any other flaws with our robot that we should know about before we go on and CAD it? Thank you very much for your responses. They've been really helpful thus far. http://www.pinewoodrobotics.com/files/chassis.zip ![]() |
Re: Check Out Our New Custom Frame!
If you're going to use cantilevered wheels like that, I'd suggest supporting the axles at two points, rather than just one.
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Re: Standard vs. Custom Frame
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Some questions and concerns I have based on your CAD model:
I think what you have is a good start, but that it needs refinement. Some of the other questions you've asked -- about spacers and e-clips and the like -- suggest to me that, overall, you might not be ready to tackle a drivetrain as resource and design intensive as this. It would make a fantastic project for the summer or off-season, though, and allow your team to gain a lot more experience and perspective on what it takes to thoughtfully design and build a custom drivetrain and frame. Edit: I split the discussion about this drivetrain from the thread titled "Standard vs. Custom Frame". All discussion about this design should happen here from now onward. |
Re: Check Out Our New Custom Frame!
Have you tried the IFI wheels while cantilevered like that? It may be fine for all I know, but I don't think anyone's posted any information--good or bad--about the wheels in that configuration.
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Re: Check Out Our New Custom Frame!
Im one of the engineers on this project.
So first of all one of the sprockets on the gearbox (yes there are two; the black one and our lazy CADDED silver one) drives the back wheel. The other sprocket drives the middle wheel. The middle wheel then drives the front wheel. This assembly worked last year; my only concern is the tension on the cantilevered axels. Second: as to the question of eclips or spacers, last year we used shaft collars to space things out; this year we are looking for a more effective spacer. The spacer will be used ON the axel on the front and back axels to align the sprocket. The question was phrased incorrectly. Third: the hubs are custom made. Fourth: our frame is made of aluminum tubing .125" thick. Therefore i do not know if we can make a slot to lock down the pillowblock bearing (off the shelf). We were thinking of using different material to make our chassis out of, but we had some success with this tubing last year. Can anybody offer insight on what material we should use? Last year we used a suitable tensioner that fixed right onto the chain. We are using the 1" thick 6" IFI traction wheels. The thinner width should help lower the cantilever force, while the size will preserve the gear ratio. Please note that the sprockets are CADDDED as juxtaposed discs. The gear ratio has been calculated correctly however. We are more concerned about structural aspects since our chassis drivetrain worked fine last year, but our chassis got physically damaged in the 3rd round. |
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We've used thin-walled Aluminum tubing as a spacer material in the past. It's effective but cumbersome. Quote:
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If you remain concerned about cantilevering load so far from your frame (and you don't have the capacity to properly calculate the effects of that on your materials), consider switching to a wider frame rail. Inverting the pillow blocks into the frame rail would reduce the distance between the wheels and the frame. Speaking generally, it's very important that you provide as much information to us as possible so that we can make informed comments and answers to your questions. It's difficult to critique a design when critical pieces of information are missing. |
Re: Standard vs. Custom Frame
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Re: Check Out Our New Custom Frame!
I apologize,
A different team member wrote up the first post. Thanks for all the help! I especially liked the idea of inverting the pillowblock bearing. If theres anything else you see please dont hesitate to critique us! Its a lot better now than after we CNC the thing. |
Re: Check Out Our New Custom Frame!
This is a good start, but I have two questions.
1) Isn't it better to wait and see what the GDC throws at us before designing something? Admittedly, this is easy to change now, but nobody knows what's coming. 2) Will the area with no gearboxes be strong enough? I'm not sure that the side rails will stay straight in that configuration. |
Re: Check Out Our New Custom Frame!
I'd be afraid of using hollow wheels, such as the IFI wheels, in an exposed position like that. Something like the AndyMark performance wheels, AndyMark traction wheels, or some variety of colson wheels may be a better option. Regardless of wheel choice, I would also advise having plenty of spares (even if they don't break, if one tread gets worn out etc., due to the ease of switching live axle wheels, spares are often advantageous). If possible, you're going to want some form of exterior protection (typically a bumper), and not just for the safety of your wheels. 254 had trouble last year when teams discovered that if they hit 254 at high speed, they could often "hop" on top of 254's wheels, making it next to impossible for 254 to move effectively. A good example of this can be found in Newton Quarter-final 2-2.
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Re: Check Out Our New Custom Frame!
What are the dimensions of the rectangular tubing? Is it aluminum? We did a chassis awhile back with cantilevered wheels using a 2" x 4" aluminum frame member (a kit part at the time). Can you say "flexible"? Beware. I vastly prefer axles supported on two sides by frame rails. I am somewhat cautious, but in 5 years, we've had ZERO drivetrain failures, and very little maintenance. When you can't afford spare parts, you tend to do it right the first time.
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Re: Check Out Our New Custom Frame!
Even though you may not want to use a bumper/outside rail. I would extremely recommend it. My team uses ifi tract. wheels and without proper protection they are easily bent/broken, last thing you want is a smashed wheel out on the field. Besides that i like the concept. Though adding an outside rail would also provide a place to mount the other end of the axle, thus making it stronger and lessing the need for such big bearing blocks.
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Re: Check Out Our New Custom Frame!
I can't speak for the new IFI traction wheels, but if you were to run last year's version outside the frame like that, they'd last maybe 3-4 matches. You definitely want to protect them somehow.
As to snaprings, you can use them to space your sprockets and such. Make sure you leave yourself some wiggle room between the groove and the sprocket, or else the snapring will not properly seat itself. In the past we've just machined nylon/aluminum tube to the proper length and slid it over the shaft. |
Re: Check Out Our New Custom Frame!
Its a good start but... I think you would be happier with a couple more cross frames to help keep things straight. Just my 2 cents worth....
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Re: Check Out Our New Custom Frame!
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But after seeing how succesful that chassis was, it is only a small detail. To address the poster, you have a good chasis on your hands. However have you considered some sort of shifting tranny? If you use them, they can give you a big advantage as far as driving goes. |
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We generally leave the tread on the bot that we tested with before ship, change it on Thursday night, change it on Friday night, and before the finals. |
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Remove one, and swing it out of the way. |
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The new tread helped us drive straighter which was very helpful during autonomous mode. We had a gyro to keep us going straight and encoders to tell us when to stop, but new tread always seemed to add consistency and lessen the error/drift. In regards to the OP, I agree with most everyone that you should add some sort of protection for the wheels. It is something we will be doing this year for sure, one way or another. |
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