Power Distribution Block..
 

Hey guys!

We start to build the power distribution part and I am wondering how to put together the black to red with the grey partS?? Did anyone make it?? Do we need extra board to screw drive on?

Re: Power Distribution Block..
 

From Section 10 of the manual:

Re: Power Distribution Block..
 

thanks:)

Re: Power Distribution Block..
 

and you dont have to use all the red and black ones, dont waste weight putting them on if you dont need all of them.

Re: Power Distribution Block..
 

Since not using all of the red and black blocks requires cutting down the yellow center jumpers, I'd suggest waiting to make that decision until you're absolutely sure how many blocks you'll need. I seem to recall that a few teams that made late design changes last year had to reorder/scrounge a full-length jumper at the last minute.

Re: Power Distribution Block..
 

And of course, remember to tighten all your screws up before every match- I'm surprised they stuck with these blocks this year, seeing as all the loose wire problems they had last year.

Re: Power Distribution Block..
 

That was us last year, and belive me that trying to find a new one was not too easy until we excanged one at a reagonal. Try to keep the PDB intact until youve come to the final design of the bot, and that can mean changes at a reagonal too.

Re: Power Distribution Block..
 

These new power distibution blocks suck. They use unnessecary room and don't secure wires very well. Plus you have to cut down the yellow parts if you're only using two or three blocks. Really pointless. I miss the old one.

Re: Power Distribution Block..
 

This post

http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/sh...53&postcount=5

offers free, easy solutions to your loose wiring problems.

Re: Power Distribution Block..
 

I agree with Squirrel: If you use them correctly, they work perfectly, and if you use them incorrectly, do you wonder why they don't work right?

Careful with that They, lad.

Don

Re: Power Distribution Block..
 

See that's just the point though. As far as I know, these are not designed for the application they are being used in. Traditionally you see these things in rather static environments not subject to the kind of vibrations we see in FRC. I'd say FIRST is using them incorrectly.

Re: Power Distribution Block..
 

a thing team 675 did that seamed to help was solder the wires before you put them in the distribution block. the solder keeps the wire is one piece instead of spreading out when pressure is applied and in turn falling out of the hole.

Re: Power Distribution Block..
 

I'm going to go with the new PDBs suck argument. They were a real pain to use last year. They really were. But I'm not as mad about the PDBs as I am about the fact that I cant use the 40/30/20 breaker panel that I love so much.

Re: Power Distribution Block..
 

Our team ordered and used the old power distribution block last year from a few years ago.

Are we still allowed to use those? They are COTS items, so I think we can.

Re: Power Distribution Block..
 

Working backwards...
No the rules state you must use the Power Distribution Block. You had to use it last year as well. There are no substitutes. See R50, it is too lengthy to quote here.
I miss the IFI breaker panel as well.
This block is an industry standard component and as Sanddrag has pointed out, they are most often used in static (non-moving) environments. It is for that reason, I recommend that all teams secure the wiring with tywraps (wire ties) near the block. Wires that can't move won't transmit the movement to the block.
Never tin (apply solder) for wires used in any type of clamp or crimp prior to insertion. For this block in particular, the wire will not conform to the terminal as the screw is tightened and therefore you will increase the surface resistance of the connection. Resistance means heat and current reduction. Heat will cause the terminals to expand making the situation worse, not better.
Squirrel thanks for the link, I didn't think people ever read my posts.
Yes you can eliminate the unused blocks and cut the jumper, but you never know when you might need to add something back.
Stripping less than 5/8" of insulation will cause the wire to be pushed out of the terminal when you tighten the screws.