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Kitbot pros and cons
In my teams first three years, we used the "Kitbot" with modifications for gamepiece manipulation. Last year, we welded our own frame and it worked out really well for us because we were defensive minded. The frame was solid as a rock and we never had to worry about losing nuts and bolts.
This year, we're considering going back to the Kit frame because speed is so vital and the Kit parts are so light. What are your thoughts on the Kitbot? Any pro's or con's of using that opposed to welding your own frame? Thanks, Joe & Team 1405 |
Re: Kitbot pros and cons
Pros:
-cheap -easy to put together -versatile -tough Cons: -"robot droppings" may weaken it |
Re: Kitbot pros and cons
Is it weldable? The "robot droppings" problem would thus be eliminated
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Re: Kitbot pros and cons
I think we'll be going with the kitbot frame ourselves this year primarily to speed drive train development and completion. If we do, our plan to combat robot droppings and weight is to use 1/4" pop rivets instead of the screws and nuts, as several other teams have had good success with.
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Re: Kitbot pros and cons
If you do decide to use the kit-bot, turn it upside down and use smaller wheels. There's no need for 2"+ of ground clearance this year. This will lower your CG, making your robot faster and sturdier.
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Re: Kitbot pros and cons
I think we're planning on 6" wheels so we can increase our velocity. Acceleration may take a hit but velocity is so vital this year.
But thanks for the tip in turning it upside-down, I'll bring it up with out team. I'm still wondering, is it weldable?? |
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awesome, sounds like a plan
thanks everyone |
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http://loctiteproducts.com/repairs.a...=5&Product=154 |
Re: Kitbot pros and cons
Personally I love the kitbot frame. We tried to make our own frame last year but we ended up ditching it for the kitbot.
Pros: Relatively light Predrilled for six wheel drive lots of holes to mount stuff Cheap Almost bullet-proof Cons: Not heavy enough for a primarily defensive bot (IMO) |
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Bumper zone is 2.5 to 8.5" from the floor, and the frame is really skinny, so that might be an issue. You could make brackets to mount the bumpers though.
I wonder how the kitbot frame would work with Ackerman (car type) steering? |
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Another option, if you have access to facilities that can do sheetmetal work, could be to take the drawings of the kit end caps and get new, wider ones made. I believe that IFI has the drawings on their website. |
Re: Kitbot pros and cons
good tip, thanks
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Re: Kitbot pros and cons
Some thoughts on the KOP frame. The side rails need to be cut. When you cut make sure you cut from the same end. Put the pieces together and mark. If you do it wrong, the holes will not be aligned as our team found out last year. We assembled the frame with a couple bolts to hold it together. When we where certain that the frame size was fixed, we pop riveted it with 1/4" pop rivets from McMaster-Carr. It takes a large tool. We borrowed one from a local automotive shop. Normally for pop riveting frame pieces, I insist on the team using back up washers. However for the 1/4" rivets we did not use them. It is very difficult to get them in side the frame and hold them flat. If you pull the rivet with out them just right the joint will not pull tight properly. The rivets will save some weight and have not failed for us. The was a post back in Nov. discussing this. If your using the KOP wheels get 3/8 ID bearings and use 3/8" grade 8 bolts for axles.
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