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Flawed IR Design Confirmed
OK, after frying the 5V regulator on our IR board twice, I think I can safely say that the IR board has a flawed design. Although, I know how I fried it the second time. It was because I accidentally reversed the polarity of the input voltage. Apparently the 5V regulators do not take reversed voltage very well. :D
If FIRST decides to use such boards in the future, I would REALLY recommend that they design it with a diode. That way the diode would restrict the current to only go one way. I have also fixed our board twice. This time, I even had the exact L805 laying around on an old board of something else. Well, that's all the info I have. I hope this helps clear some things up. |
Re: Flawed IR Design Confirmed
While the device may not be robustly designed, the user neglecting to properly check connections before applying power is hardly a design flaw. All of engineering is about trade offs, and the designers of this board traded simplicity of design, lower production cost, and the ability to accept a wider input voltage for a need of greater diligence on the part of the user.
In any case take this as a lesson to check your work... improperly wiring the IR board may cost you a dollar and a few minutes, but mproperly wiring the RC may cost you $450 and your team's capacity to develop software for this year's competition. ~Phil |
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Re: Flawed IR Design Confirmed
Did i say voltage? oops. I meant current.
...And yes, I think it is a flawed design. I don't mind replacing 5V regulators. It helps my troubleshooting skills. ..and yes, it is my fault for connecting it wrong, but a better design would help. |
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Thanks for the warning, I'll be sure to tell our programmers about the potential problem.
I definitely agree with you that any reverse voltage sensitive component should be built with a diode too. It's not like it requires much extra engineering. |
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The diode/current statement was correct. You are asking that a diode be placed at the voltage input terminals such that a reversal would cause the diode to be reverse biased and no current would flow. The downside of this kind of design is that the diode drops 0.6 volts when forward biased. In a robot when the drive system demands a lot of current, the battery voltage does fall and that extra 0.6 volts may make the difference between working and not working.
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so replacing the 5v regulator will fix it if we accidently reversed polarity? I mean, we realized we only reversed it for a split second and now it doesnt work during our first connection....didnt think that a connection of under 2 seconds would break it, but whatever
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Our team has only hooked the IR board once and thankfully we got the polarity right. :P |
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the fragile nature of this board is very disappointing. i do believe that it was not intended for robot mounting. but, it was adapted to the task. it makes no sense to run the board on 12 volts when the 5 volt line is readily available on the RC.
jerry w |
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ummmm...i know its an odd time to ask this but how do u hook the board to a powersource we split the black and white wire and directly connected it to a 6 pack AA battery set......the wires got extremely hot and the tip started to burn
please help on this issue:confused: |
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If I add a diode to the IR board, will it prevent it from breaking in case the polarity is accidentally reversed? If so, where should I add it?
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Re: Flawed IR Design Confirmed
Team Fusion had their first try with the IR board mounted on the robot this evening with bad results. Here are the problems we encountered:
Yes, that's right, we fried our board, and I can't figure out what is wrong with it. The 5V regulator is putting out exactly 5 volts, the wires feeding the IR board are wired properly and working, and it WAS working perfectly. We're not sure what happened, but while driving it, it all of a sudden took off on its own, hit our unwelded frame against a concrete wall. My first thought was it was a dead backup battery, and this was indeed true, so I replaced the battery with one reading about 7.8 volts, and it did the same thing, smacked into the wall. So I declared that we had problems and started to investigate, and yet, I found nothing wrong. I think we have it on video too of it going spastic on its own. I definitely think there is a flaw in the design, a very dangerous flaw as the robot will all of a sudden start running on its own. Another flaw, if one of your wires comes loose, it will drive on its own. I'm going to contact FIRST and see what their conclusion is. |
Re: Flawed IR Design Confirmed
Ok i may be over stepping my boundaries here, but I noticed the other day that when we tried to use our IR board that it too was fried, when i say this, i mean it turns on but it goes right to the first input and stays there, well i dont know that actaully because we havent hooked it up to anything but the light stays on and wont change, so is this what happens when its fried?
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Re: Flawed IR Design Confirmed
So does anyone know where we would be able to get another IR sensor board? It worked perfectly one moment, got everything programmed, then it just stopped working. Oh well, as long as we can get a new one.
Thanks |
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The IR board is to send commands, not state. Put a software latch or low pass filter in. |
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Phil.:rolleyes: |
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I have finally wired it up to a PWM cable. There should be no need for a diode now, since the PWM cable cannot provide reverse voltage. But, i suppose if i was really paranoid I could splice the red wire on it and add a diode there.
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Re: Flawed IR Design Confirmed
when i connected mine up, i very carefully checked with clip leads the first time and had someone with their finger on the off switch for the robot when i hooked it up earlier today. always test things like this very very carefully, and make sure it does exactly what its supposed to immediately. if it doesn't, pull power and check everything before trying again. speaking of needing new IR boards, does anyone know where to get them, and how much they cost? apparently IFI is out of the loop. I didn't burn out our existing ones, but they are kinda neat and if they are cheap I'm going to want some for personal projects.
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Re: Flawed IR Design Confirmed
I don't know where you can get the ones from diversified, but here is a link to buy the original TinyIR2 modules, which have up to 20 commands!!!!
http://www.tauntek.com/tinyir2-learn...l-receiver.htm |
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P.S. you can get reverse voltage from a PWM cable if you flip the connector and plug in only 2 pins (red to black). I've seen them plugged in that way on a crowded RC. |
Re: Flawed IR Design Confirmed
The 78XX series of regulators need at least two volts across the device to meet regulation spec. That is why the RC drops out below 8 volts, it also has a 7805 internal. (BTW that is why the current in the RC is limited to 1.5 amps, the max current spec on a 7805) When the input falls below the required 2 volt differential the output falls at the same amount. This is a problem that gets power supply designers into trouble all the time. If the input ripple from an AC simple linear power supply (wall wart) falls below the 7 volt minimum, then the output of the 7805 suddenly has ripple.
The 7.2 volts battery may measure at 8.4 volts when it is charging or slightly after. It is generally at 7.2 volts, or 1.2 volts x 6 cells for NiCad battery chemistry. |
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How to pick a diode: 1.) Low forward voltage drop when conducting otherwise your IC still sees too large of a negative voltage across it's terminals 2.) Non-repetitive forward current rating - need to match this value (and the time it can withstand this value) to your fuse to ensure the fuse will blow before your diode does! 3.) V(br)r (reverse breakdown voltage) > the voltage you are sitting across when not conducting How to pick a fuse: 1.) Fast-acting, since this board doesn't have a lot of inrush current (inrush current = initial current spike when powering on and charging up capacitors and associated IC's) or current spikes where you wouldn't want the fuse to blow. 2.) ~1.5x your expected maximum current draw to avoid nuisance blow, as in 1. Easy to spec, since the LM78L05 can only source 100mA, anything above that is an error condition. 3.) Small - no giant breaker or glass BUSS fuses, lets stick it right on the board Possible solution: Diode - SD103AW,BW, or CW Fuse - 0603FA250-R Alternatively: Use a series diode (heck even the one mentioned above) with an LDO (Low dropout regulator) instead of the standard linear LM78L05. Something such as the MIC2950 which has a dropout voltage (as Al S. mentioned) of 0.3V@100mA would mean that your circuit would work down to 5V + 0.3V+0.6V (forward voltage of the diode above) or 5.9V! If your backup battery is down to 5.9V you're in trouble :) At the end of the day, after typing this up someone will find a rule or a new Q&A stating we can't modify the boards anyway :rolleyes: |
Re: Flawed IR Design Confirmed
Just to let anyone reading this post because your IR board died, IFI is now selling them: http://www.ifirobotics.com/first-store.shtml
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