Re: Belts vs. Chains
 

I was just throwing the counter to "#25 chain breaks" out there because in my use, it doesnt.

Yes run the numbers on your own, make sure it works, then pick the lightest and easiest..

Re: Belts vs. Chains
 

Belts rely on alot of friction to transfer power from pulley to pulley. By design, they're less efficient (albeit only slightly) than chain/sprocket setups.

The reason chains break is due to lack of tension. Chains in general are most vulnerable to a break during a sudden change in direction (e.g. full power forward to full power backwards, or from dead stop to full forward). The slack in the chain creates a huge change in force that is spread (use integral physics to exactly calculate) almost equally among the links when the slack becomes taut.

If the chain were already in tension, the change in force is almost negligible, but due to the slack before the change in direction, it is MUCH greater. The weakest link will then break -- usually it's the master link, which is why you only ever want 1 master link per chain run.

If you never change directions usually you're ok if there's not too much slack, but that is never the case in a FIRST robot -- you WILL be bumped, you WILL change directions & speeds. Bicycles on the other hand, do not receive such change in force, therefore by design bicycles can use #25 chain and undergo the same torques as a FIRST bot but the chain will never break.

Tension is your friend. You also want to pre-stretch the chain during practice so that it doesn't stretch during a match. This can be done by tensioning the chain very well, then running a battery down by running the drive train and making it change directions alot. This will prevent the chain from stretching during a match and inadvertently giving you some undesired slack.

Re: Belts vs. Chains
 

Thanks for information! Sounds good....

Also when we say that a chain "stretches", does that mean it is wearing in? or is the metal really stretching? I would think that new chain will wear down the high spots at each link rather quickly, then as there is now greater surface area, the wear will slow down.

Re: Belts vs. Chains
 

You can get toothed belts and pulleys for those, like what came in the kit. That can help a little.

Re: Belts vs. Chains
 

I think it is actually stretching. I have no solid evidence to back up my opinion, but I did watch as my team's arm prototype's #35 chain went from really tight to so loose that it was barely touching the teeth of the lower sprocket in under half a second. (There was a lot of force on that chain though)

Re: Belts vs. Chains
 

CHAINS ARE BETTER THAN BELTS. The belts will tend to slip, while chains stay put. Also, a new link can fix a broken chain in 5 to 10 minutes.

Re: Belts vs. Chains
 

I have broken #25 chain before, use #35 chain coming from the trans to the drive wheels. OR we use 25# chain to connect our wheels in the 6X6 config.
personaly i like 35# better becuase it doesnt strech like 25# does.

Re: Belts vs. Chains
 

we use #35 chain for whatever we do. ive only ever see one team break 35 chain, but that was only because they took a fish from the master link on and off one too many times. (it bent and they lost the master link) #35 chain is awesome cuz it can handle so much. our 2006 robot used 35 and we bent our frame, causing the chain to misalign, rub the wheel, rub the frame, and we were still able to out push any one and every one that chose to take us on. #35 can handle the abuse. i dont think a belt woulda survived.

35 is cheap insurance.

Re: Belts vs. Chains
 

I agree that the chain gets longer when you first use it, then it kind of settles in and stays the same length for a while.

I was just saying that I think this is caused by initial wear, not by the metal exceeding it's yield strength.

Kind of nit-picky of me

Re: Belts vs. Chains
 

Chains will stretch and they won't stretch evenly. The more abuse a chain takes, the more likely it will develop tight and loose spots.

Chains main weakness is their master link. Installing the clip, so the open end of the clip is facing the direction of rotation, is a quick way to eject a master link clip as soon as it rubs against some part of the bot.

Improper installation of the clip leads to bending the clip and again increases the chance of loosing the clip.

Chain alignment is important

Chassis flex will also eject a chain.

A tight chain robs the motors of power and will require more power to spin the drive train.


If you use a chain, buy a pair of Snap-On "Duck-Bill" Pliers (basically a wide, flat version of a needle nose pliers) to install and remove your master clip. Replace your master clip often (if you are removing the clip often), Be sure your chain is aligned perfectly. Be sure there is about 3/8" to 5/8" of up & down play in the Chain (get in the habit of checking your chain after each use). Minimize frame flex. Make sure the chain can't rub on any parts.

Always install the open end of the clip facing the opposite direction of rotation and safety wire the master clip to the chain.

Re: Belts vs. Chains
 

#35 chain will stretch about 1/8" for every 4 feet. I MTB, so I have ALOT of experience with this stuff. #35 will stand up to just about anything. Ive slammed it on rocks, trees, roots, etc and never had it break. Also, the torque exerted on it during a rough ride is astounding. I've never broken #35

Chain stretch usually slows down the more it is stretched. After that 1/8", the chain will settle in and stay put for the next 10 years if you want it to. As long as you don't abuse a #35 chain, it will work perfectly for you.

Re: Belts vs. Chains
 

Here is some technical information about chain. Think in terms of initial "elongation", not "stretch".

http://www.diamondchain.com/support/.../wear_life.php

and from their FAQs: 12. Roller Chain Stretch (Elongation)

Why is my chain "stretching", elongating, too quickly?

ANSWER: Proper lubrication is critical in achieving the maximum wear life of any roller chain. As the chain articulates around the sprockets, the pin and bushing wear. This wearing causes the elongation, or "stretch", in the chain. Lubrication of these surfaces through proper lube application or the utilization of Diamond Duralube or Ringleader O-ring chains can greatly increase the wear life of the chain.


I've found that a decent quality chain has less initial elongation than the no-name-brand stuff sold for cheap go-karts.

Re: Belts vs. Chains
 

cables

Re: Belts vs. Chains
 

1323 has gone with a chain drive #25. The reason for that is if you use a tensioner from mcmastercarr, the chain will never pop off. The belts are good everywhere else besides the drivetrain. We using belts to power our wheels on the hand

Re: Belts vs. Chains
 

last year 612 went 20 matches or so through regionals and championships with belts and pulleys and all we had to do was check that they were tight - no maintenance