Re: Musings from a FIRST Inspector
 

To give some advice from the team/student's perspective:
1) Relax. Inspections are only stressful if you let them be. Remember, both you and your inspector are trying to enjoy the competition, not stress each other out. Tell an amusing anecdote or two if it helps (just don't start on some bad "a blonde walks into a bar... ouch" type of jokes and stories).

2) The scale is usually open for use for a lot of the day. So, the first thing you should do after uncrating your robot is to go weigh it. It makes for an unpleasant surprise if you discover at 5pm that you are over the weight limit. It doesn't have to be part of an inspection or any sort of official weigh-in, just get an idea of where you stand.

3) Partial inspections are your friend. Since there is only one sizing box, in my experience, a lot of time is wasted waiting to use it. Get weight/sizing done early and the rest should be a breeze. If you know your electronics won't pass at the moment for some reason, go ahead and do the rest while you wait for the parts to fix the electricals. The same goes for just about anything. (Just don't try to get a partial inspection when the incomplete subsystem poses a hazard to the inspector)

4) Know the rules well and keep copies of relevant Q&A responses and the rulebook at hand. Everyone fears getting an incompetent (or just inexperienced, which can have the same result) inspector, and it does happen (usually pretty rarely though). Knowing the rules like the back of your hand is the most effective way to get through such an inspection.

Re: Musings from a FIRST Inspector
 

The wires come out easy if you don't strip them properly (5/8" insulation must be removed), insert them fully, and tighten the screw all the way.

If you do these 3 simple things, then the wires will stay in.

Re: Musings from a FIRST Inspector
 

Thanks, that must be the problem. I think we are at 1/2" or a smidgen under. I'll check it tomorrow.

And Yes, the FIRST Q&A clearly states that a robot that could physically exceed 80" can pass inspection but cannot do so during competition without penalty.

Re: Musings from a FIRST Inspector
 

One side of the red and black blocks is open. The thin grey pieces go between the open side of each polarity grouping and the grey block that would end up next to it. The little plastic pegs on the corners of the thin grey piece will fit neatly into holes in the face of the red/black block.

Re: Musings from a FIRST Inspector
 

Another thing... if the inspection station is open and ready, go and size & weigh your robot IMMEDIATELY after you take it out of the box. Sometimes your scale in the shop may not be the same as theirs, or your CAD modeling missed the placement of the flag holder and you are outside. Even if you are 100% certain you are good, or bad, see how you stack up with the REAL setup.

A little reason why... at RIT last year, we got there, found out our scale or theirs was 5lbs off... we shaved that, and just made it in under by the end of the day... and by end of the day, I mean we literally weighed our robot AS we were being thrown out the door... put it on the cart, and came back first thing the next morning. Friday morning, we all of a sudden were 3lb overweight again!! Luckily we ripped off the camera and a plastic panel and were legal, but it was crazy to see the calibration of the scale change that much over the course of a day!

And I've been an inspector before as well... let it be fun, let the kids use it as a time to really show off how much they have learned! I want to say that at least 75% of the inspectors are there to help you and can point you to other teams that can give you a hand if you need something, or will give suggestions on how to fix things.

Have fun & START EARLY!!!

Re: Musings from a FIRST Inspector
 

Ed,
The 80" cylinder is question we will all struggle with this season but I would interpret the rule that your failure mode may very well violate the intent. Best asked on the Q&A for clarification.

The thin grey pieces are needed when the block is used for high voltage. The Kit Of Parts Rev A has a drawing on how to assemble the block and they are not included in that drawing. The wires pull out if they are not stripped 5/8". When you insert a correctly stripped wire, the end of the wire should contact the inner plastic wall (wire stop) of the block and you should be able to just see bare copper at the entrance of the terminal. When you tighten the clamp, the wire will be secure. Add appropriate wire management so that the wire does not wiggle around in the block and you should be fine.

Re: Musings from a FIRST Inspector
 

Thanks for the advice - this is the first year that I'm going to have to go to inspection with our robot and it was really helpful!

In regards to the power distribution block, my team found that either our wires would spread out over time, or our screws would loosen - if you're still having issues with your wires falling out of your block, try tightening them every morning before you run the robot. Also make sure that they are stripped to the proper length and inserted until the manual stop - these should all prevent the wires from falling out again.

Re: Musings from a FIRST Inspector
 

By the way...
Weigh and size are free so come in whenever you want to check. I won't start your paperwork until you tell me you are ready.

Re: Musings from a FIRST Inspector
 

What!?!?!?! I've been charging for weighing and sizing :ahh:
Not really, but I could make a killing :D

Re: Musings from a FIRST Inspector
 

We're a first year time and I'm trying to look ahead and smoothen out a bit of the inspection process. I saw the advice you gave and I appreciate it. Could you give me a little more information on the Bill of Material. What all is required on that? We had some parts custom made by a mentor who works at a steel plant. How do we get those parts on there. Plus once we got some of the steel....we ended up "altering" (aka.....chopping off parts) of some of the custom made pieces. Is all that legal as long as we deburr the metal. While at the places....can you talk to an inspector and have them come look at your robot before you go to official "inspection" to make sure they think it will pass so that....if they don't think it will...you can make some changes. Thanks for the help.

Re: Musings from a FIRST Inspector
 

You get multiple chances to pass inspection. The inspectors will be more than happy to give you a "partial" if you don't pass the first time around. They also tend to like to inspect in your pit, as it relieves congestion around the weigh station/size box.

On that note, the earlier you start the better.

Re: Musings from a FIRST Inspector
 

Karl,
The inspector is there to make sure you play. He is your friend, please come over and ask questions. I will be stopping by all pits during the practice day Thursday. Wave me over if you have an issue. I (most inspectors) would rather you be ready for a complete inspection when you come for inspection, than to go through multiple partial inspections. It is more efficient for you to go through the list and check over everything before I see your robot. That way as I go through the list, you can point out the areas I am interested in and the process will go very quickly. Inspection should take no longer than 15 minutes.
As to the BOM, the robot rules Section 8 has some examples of how to handle BOM entries and costing. Simply read through the section to get an idea of how to handle your parts. It might require some research on your part to get an accurate cost.

Re: Musings from a FIRST Inspector
 

Al, correct me if I'm wrong. The B.O.M. is mostly the extra parts and pieces you buy/get donated above the KOP parts.
The custom made parts you need to have the mentor estimate what the parts are worth.
If you buy a 10' long piece of steel but only use 2' than divide the 10' piece price by 5 to get the correct BOM price.
You do not need to include any small hardware (screws, bolts etc..) on the BOM.
Don't sweat the small stuff, we will help you pass inspection.

Re: Musings from a FIRST Inspector
 

Wayne, the example 10' long piece has to be counted as 10' for cost accounting unless the same stuff is available in 2' lengths. It's prorated on smallest available commercial quantity (that works...;)), not on how much you use. The example given in the rulebook is a 10" x 10" piece of material, cut from an 4' by ??' sheet, but available commercially in 1' by 1' sheets.

(Sorry, I'm not Al...):D

Re: Musings from a FIRST Inspector
 

Wayne, this is just about right.

Minor detail: when a team uses less material than they actually purchased, the cost of the part(s) made from that material can be shown on the BOM as the cost of the smallest commonly available quantity that they could have purchased.You're also right about not having to count small fasteners; however, any fastener that costs more than $1 each must be included in the BOM.

Your final point is the main one: we the volunteers are there to help you pass inspection. We want every team to pass every inspection item so that they can compete.

(Sorry, I'm not Al either. I know he's around here somewhere ...)