pic: Alluminum wheel #1
 

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I would love some feedback. Without treads this wheel weighs .68, ours last year were 1.5, we are looking to cut weight anywhere possible. Also how do other teams attach treads?

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1323 uses rivets and washers

Re: pic: Alluminum wheel #1
 

How it is going to be manufactured?

If it is going to be made on a milling machine, you can't have square inside corners. You can ignore this if it's going to be fabricated via waterjet/laserjet/EDM, as they can make sharp corners with no problems.

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Waterjet

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You ought to fillet the inside corners anyhow; it'll better distribute stress through the part.

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Many teams use rivets along with an adhesive to hold the tread to the wheel. You may find it better if you cut the tread so that it slowly ends at a point, instead of just a complete horizontal cut. This will reduce the bunching of the material that happens when you rivet it to the hub.

Imagine the tread when spread out on a flat surface as a parallelogram instead of a rectangle.

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Which kind and where do you find it, a link would be nice.

thanks in advance,

-rc

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I have seen teams use Black Loctite (otherwise known as Loctite 438 Instant Adhesive) with great success. Simply apply it to the tread, place it on the wheel and hold it down tightly with a hose clamp. Once the tread has been secured to the hub (leaving a few hours for it to cure completely), then rivet it down to the metal.

You should be able to find Black Loctite at any hardware store (Home Depot, Lowes, etc.). Here is a link to the data sheet anyway: http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/438-EN.PDF

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thanks a lot

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How thick are the wheels. The 4 lightening holes you have are not all that big. I would recommend that you either make them more useful by enlarging them or remove them and you could make the spokes smaller. Also do you plan on keying the shaft or using a sprocket with a bolt pattern?

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The spoke design is a little inefficient. It makes no sense to widen the spoke as you go out, as the stress is greatest closer to the hub.

Depending on diameter and width, .68 is a tad heavy compared to a lot of custom wheels I have seen. What are it's dimensions?

Does look like a solid start though.

Also, if you are planning on mating it with a plate sprocket (I'm guessing by the hole pattern), you might want to do a 6 bolt hole pattern for #10's on 1.875 circle. This is AMs standard pattern, and will save you a lot of time if you use their sprockets.

I can't tell if it is supposed to be a live or dead axle. The center bore is too small for reasonable size bearings, but has no keyway.

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yeah you attach treads with rivets