Chief Delphi - Electrical Team Prep

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Re: Electrical Team Prep

Quote:

Originally Posted by EricVanWyk (Post 767836)

I am 98% sure that the Wagos on the PD are not designed to accept ferrules.

I am 100% sure that the Wagos on the PD are not designed to accept tinned wires. Tinning the wires will result in a very poor connection.

Simply strip the wires and insert. The cage-clamp works best when it can push the strands a bit to grip multiple surfaces. Using a ferrule reduces the contact area.

I whole-heartedly agree that tinning wires for the PD terminal blocks is a horrible idea, just as tinning a wire to be crimped. That said...

Ahem. I'm 100% certain those terminal blocks are meant to work with ferrules, partially because we use them this way on all of our machines. Also, I refer you to pages 2 and 3 of the following brochure.

Second, a ferrule is going to increase the effective diameter of the wire, increasing the clamping force to the same clamping force a solid wire would experience. If you're claiming the cage clamp connections should be derated for solid wires.... Well the WAGO people will probably have something to say about that.

Again, they're certainly not necessary. Just stripping the wire, fiddling the terminal open, and sticking it straight in will work. But a ferrule makes it absolutely impossible to mangle the wire strands if you get in a rush. (Provided you have the appropriate crimper and apply it properly.)

Re: Electrical Team Prep

Tinning on our terminals does not work as it decreases the surface area of the contact from the CageClamp and will allow the wires to pull out. IF you use a ferrul, make sure it is a square ferrul (crimped square) as a round one will pull out just like a tinned wire.

Practice a bit with the blocks. They are easy to use and you will eliminate the bird cage issue in no time. Also, I'm not sure which series TBs you are getting, but a lot of our blocks are front entry, so you're not loading the wires in from the side hoping you hit the hole. You actually can see what you are doing!

Re: Electrical Team Prep

Yeah, I hated how the anderson's worked like that and how wires would keep coming loose. I'm really looking forward to using these. Also, the lever nuts with a loop of wire make a great clamp type thing for holding stuff together. Like a ziptie only easily removed and reused.

-vivek

Re: Electrical Team Prep

Kevin,
One of the documents you pointed to in another thread gives a variety of suggested termination methods. WAGO recommends a 1/2" strip to bare wire, a partial strip leaving some of the insulation on the end of the stranded wire so that the ends won't catch on the terminal body, a slight addition of solder to the very end of the stranded wire to keep the bundle together, or the use of the crimp ferrule which is a square crimp or the pin termination shown in the brochure which simulates a solid wire. I believe for our use with large diameter stranded wire, I would recommend either the bare strip or the bare strip with a little insulation left in place. for most teams. If you have the spare cash for a crimper and a box of ferrules, you could certainly consider that approach.

Re: Electrical Team Prep

Quote:

Originally Posted by Don Rotolo (Post 767809)

Did anyone mention crimping? Yes, it's that important. Find and buy a ratchet-type crimper for solderless terminals, it should cost around $50, and take all the non-ratcheting type and throw them away.

...

Get some wire of different sizes. Get electronic type wire - stranded with relatively fine strands, stay AWAY form electrical (house wiring - THHN, THHW, etc) type of wire, it is way too stiff. #20 for sensors, #14 for light power, #12 or #10 for big motors, red and black at least.

Practice wiring stuff with crimp terminals and screw-type barrier blocks , some switches and light bulbs or motors and batteries.

Learn why you want the thickest wire you can get (within weight limits) for high-current applications.

As someone mentioned, read last year's rules and electrical guide.

Look at some photos of neatly wired robots. Or go to an off-season competition and look. Ask a lot of questions too.

All very good points. Amen on the rachet type crimp tool. http://www2.usfirst.org/2007comp/oth...0Practices.pdf is a lot of good information condensed in one place for all the teams, not just electrical. Hopefully, there will be an updated version in this year's rules.

Don't cheap out on tools, either. There is nothing worse than getting pinched on a cheap pair of wire strippers, or breaking a set of side cutters because you didn't have a big enough set. Or struggling with 22 ga. wire because you didn't buy a small set.

Good tools aren't cheap, but they do carry on from year-to-year if you take care of them.

Softer, more flexible wire can be found as MTW (Machine Tool Wire) in any electrical supply house. Be sure it is just MTW, not a combination like THHN/THWN/MTW. The THHN has fewer, but bigger strands as well as a tough outer clear jacket that makes the wire stiff and you'll end up with a snarl. The MTW has finer strands and a soft plastic jacket that holds bends and will be much neater once formed.